Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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So Lost on picking a cam...I have researched and researched and...

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Old 01-25-2008, 12:28 PM
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Which is why i went with what i did...should give me exactly what im lookin for. Even though my WS6 isnt a DD is still put some mileage on it So we will see!!!!!!
Old 01-25-2008, 12:32 PM
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how is the maintanence on h/c compared to stock. i have heard that once you start modding stuff starts breaking all the time, cause here in acouple months i will have enough saved up to get the stuff ordered and installed but if it breaks it will just sit in the drive way cause i dont have a job and my parents wont pay to fix it, im in the 11th grade. will my car last through college with out breaking down if i do h/c
Old 01-25-2008, 06:51 PM
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well that all depends on you!!and how you drive your car,if you drive it like you got sum sense it will last with H&C if you drive like an idiot it wont last till the 12th grade.
Old 01-25-2008, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by white_ls1z28
how is the maintanence on h/c compared to stock. i have heard that once you start modding stuff starts breaking all the time, cause here in acouple months i will have enough saved up to get the stuff ordered and installed but if it breaks it will just sit in the drive way cause i dont have a job and my parents wont pay to fix it, im in the 11th grade. will my car last through college with out breaking down if i do h/c
Unless you like walking/catching rides from friends, don't break the bank with a h/c setup while you don't have a job. Spend your money on basic mods like headers, cat-back and all the bolt-ons. 99% of them will leave you with completely stock drivability and reliability.

An ls1 car with headers and bolt-ons and a tune can put 350rwhp down. It would do you well at 17 or so to take some time doing the basics an getting a handle on that before you add another 50-75 hp.

Otherwise, man up and go get a job. The truth is you have to pay to play, and the parts alone start adding up fast. If you don't have the basics already, you're going to need at least $2500 to get started.

Sorry if that sounds harsh, but I remember what it was like to be able to get in my car and go when I was that age. I think you may end up kicking yourself in the end if you don't play it safe. Think of where you'd be if you had to buck up for some expensive maintenance a couple weeks after your parts came in...

Overall, good luck & have fun with your car.

Last edited by hammertime; 01-26-2008 at 12:23 AM. Reason: the italic word in the last line at least makes it look like english isn't my second language
Old 04-09-2008, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
A safe bet would be a single pattern cam with plenty of lift and Patriot Extreme dual valve springs (with Ti retainers and a 7.425" pushrod).

226/226 .609/.600" 110LSA +2
I ran across this thread searching for h/c number on a 226 grind cam since thats what I have.

I have a GTP420. Its 226/226 .590/.590 112+2
No idea who the manufacturer is though. How would the tighter LSA compare to what I have?

Its a decent grind that I've been daily driving for over 2 years. No good dyno numbers because I have yet to get a good tune on it.
Old 04-09-2008, 09:43 PM
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No headers = get a small cam
6 k revs = small cam

Read some dyno charts, you won't outperform the TR224 without supporting bolt ons and higher revs.

Good luck
Old 04-09-2008, 09:49 PM
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i have the 224/224 .581 114lsa... check out my dyno graph...


mods i sig...





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