Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:03 PM
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i was wrong fellas.....spun rod bearing is the culprit
Old 07-10-2008, 08:50 PM
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Default SLP pump

The SLP pump is a stock volume pump like the Melling 10295 pump is. The main thing different on the SLP pump is that I think it is cast with longer mounts so that you don't have to use spacers to install a double roller timing chain.

Originally Posted by Black01M6SS
I'm interested in this also. I have another thread about my build but to sum it up my new 402 has around 45-50psi at idle when cold but drops off to around 20psi after driving around for 30+ minutes. When it is fully warmed and idleing at 20psi I can rev it and it does not build up over 50psi at 5500rpm. I realize it may be withen spec but as others have said. I don't feel comfortable having it at the very bottom of the spec. The rules of thumb I have heard were 10psi per 1000 rpm OR 10 psi per 100hp. Either way I want to see 70-80 psi at redline when hot and I'm pretty sure it wouldn't get there right now. The engine only has 250 miles on it and hasn't seen redline yet but 50 psi at 5500 rpm bothers me a little.

The car has the SLP "High Volume" oil pump. Around 1000 miles on the pump. Could I just shim the spring to make it put out more pressure?
Old 07-10-2008, 08:52 PM
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Default 98 vs LS6 pump

Either your 98 pump had a problem (maybe in the pressure control valve) or something else changed when you swapped pumps. The LS6 pump is the same pump as the LS1 and LS2 pump.

Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
hmmm thats funny I gained 20psi everywhere when I swapped from my 98 pump to the ls6 pump.....hmmmmm
Old 07-10-2008, 10:13 PM
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I feel ripped off. It was deffently advertised as a "high volume/stock pressure" oil pump when I bought it. I'm about to buy a melling.
Old 07-10-2008, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
i was wrong fellas.....spun rod bearing is the culprit
Bummer....
Old 07-10-2008, 10:47 PM
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i bought a melling 295 from the local auto parts place for $105. it will be replacing the 100k stocker thats being pulled with my cam swap. my hot idle is 35 psi and wide open is 70.
Old 07-11-2008, 01:56 AM
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I bought a melling 295 on line.My car had 70k on it when I installed the cam,heads,etc.I heard while your in their might as well do it.My hot idle is app; 30-35 and about 70 punching it.I read this thread and made my decision.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:26 PM
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I'm new on here and have been doing some research to decide which oil pump to install. This thread has been particularly helpful, but I have some further questions.

As an introduction, I currently drift a 240SX and will be installing an LS1 into it over the winter. I've already purchased the engine (2000 Trans Am, 23k miles) and am in the process of getting parts together for the install. My goal is to have a very reliable nearly stock LS1. (Anything over 300 ft-lbs. is plenty for a 2200-lb. 240.) The engine will see a lot of sustained high-RPM use and high G-forces. I want to make sure it lasts all of next season.

The only upgrades will be oil pump, timing chain, custom oil pan (7 quart), remote oil filter, Accusump system, and custom intake, headers, and exhaust.

I was thinking of going with the Melling 10295 pump. Since I will have higher oil capacity than stock (due to the pan, Accusump, and lines associated with the remote oil filter and Accusump system), do I need a higher volume or higher pressure pump? In other words, will all of the extra oil system plumbing reduce overall oil pressure requiring an upgraded pump? If so, should I go with the 10296 or the high-volume GM pump mentioned previously in this thread?

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.

Last edited by miro; 09-25-2008 at 06:33 PM.
Old 09-25-2008, 08:07 PM
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i personally think the 295 will be plenty.
Old 09-26-2008, 01:21 AM
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Yeah, I'll probably go with that.
Old 09-28-2008, 04:47 PM
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Default Drifting car

The 10295 should probably be fine although if you have an external oil cooler and lines to/from it the engine sees the pressure drop from those things but the oil pump pressure control valve doesn't. For that reason I might consider the 10296 pump.

Keep in mind that the factory oil coolers have a pressure bypass so if the pressure drop in the lines and cooler, especially with thick cold oil, is too high the oil is able to bypass the cooler. This isn't the case with most aftermarket style systems.

Make sure you use -10 or larger line for the oil cooler lines, fittings and oil cooler. Also make sure the oil cooler and the fittings you use aren't a significant pressure drop (use radiused fittings when possible etc.).

For a drifting car I would probably consider using a dry sump system instead of a wet sump system and an accusump. For a dedicated race car that doesn't need AC several dry sump systems exist that are a fairly easy bolt on (ARE etc.).


Originally Posted by miro
I'm new on here and have been doing some research to decide which oil pump to install. This thread has been particularly helpful, but I have some further questions.

As an introduction, I currently drift a 240SX and will be installing an LS1 into it over the winter. I've already purchased the engine (2000 Trans Am, 23k miles) and am in the process of getting parts together for the install. My goal is to have a very reliable nearly stock LS1. (Anything over 300 ft-lbs. is plenty for a 2200-lb. 240.) The engine will see a lot of sustained high-RPM use and high G-forces. I want to make sure it lasts all of next season.

The only upgrades will be oil pump, timing chain, custom oil pan (7 quart), remote oil filter, Accusump system, and custom intake, headers, and exhaust.

I was thinking of going with the Melling 10295 pump. Since I will have higher oil capacity than stock (due to the pan, Accusump, and lines associated with the remote oil filter and Accusump system), do I need a higher volume or higher pressure pump? In other words, will all of the extra oil system plumbing reduce overall oil pressure requiring an upgraded pump? If so, should I go with the 10296 or the high-volume GM pump mentioned previously in this thread?

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.
Old 10-01-2008, 01:33 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely look into the ARE dry sump system.
Old 10-18-2008, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason Haines @ LPE
Shawn,

Do you already have the engine back together and running? If so, what is your warmed up idle oil pressure and what is your peak oil pressure (at probably around 5000 or 6000 rpm)?
(LPE High volume pump with high pressure spring installed on stock longblock, moves 1.26cu.in/rpm opposed to .94cu.in/rpm of ls1/ls1/ls6 pump)

I have finally got everything broken in and such and im running 5w 30 Mobile one oil with a K&N filter.

Cold idle at 650rpm - 75psi
Cold cruise at 2000rpm - Pegged at 100psi
Hot idle at 650rpm - 50psi
Hot cruise at 2000rpm - 70psi
Hot WOT at 4500rpm or so - 80psi+-
Old 10-18-2008, 02:27 PM
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jason,

i was thinking about changing my oil pump when i finish my top end build (afr 205's, cam in my sig, longtubes, etc --- stock bottom end). i was thinking either the 295 or 296. leaning towards the 296.
which of these do you think would better suit my needs? or should i just stay stock?

the pressure is perfect in it as of now with cam only but i was thinking since the car does have 82k i might as well just swap it to be safe.
btw, the cam has only beed in the car for 5k miles.
thanks

Last edited by F8L_LS1; 10-18-2008 at 02:33 PM.
Old 04-08-2017, 12:11 AM
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old thread I know, but I'm getting a bunch of different opinions... putting trick flow 220 and cam in and I ordered everything through BTR and they added a gm high volume oil pump to the list but would the melling 295 or 296 be better???

thanks
Old 04-08-2017, 03:42 AM
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Are you referring to the M-Series (M295) or 10-Series (10295/296). The M295 is a stock replacment pump for LS1/6. 10295 for stock bearing clearances, 10296 for worn bearings or bearing clearances that are more excessive that stock, which was all explained in this thread.

Last edited by 07NBSChevy; 04-08-2017 at 03:48 AM.



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