jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

so im wanting to be able to run my motor up to 7k or maybe more on a regulaur basis without worrying about to much going wrong
its gonna be a short stroke motor.......

hydraulic lifters or solid????
do i need some kind of dry sump???
any suggestions

black_z

iTrader: (4)

Give us some realistic driving habits, (road race car, autox, drag racing, street car, etc) and a budget and we can get you headed into the right direction.

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

yea that might help mostly a street car
some racing
turbo with intercooler+cry02 spray down
3.185 stroke
forged internals
a set of stage 3 cncd 035s heads(317s with bigger combustion chamber)
really big stall

either a 6.0 bore or ls1 bore

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

o it might help if i included that my ideal of street cars and normal peoples arent they same

i wanna make the honda kids **** there pants and turn rpms like the rotorys

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

Well, first things first. You are going to need a bitchin valvetrain setup. Kick *** springs that will not float and light valves will help along with shaft mount rockers. Get a light rotating assembly. Every ounce removed will help keep it together while its spinning to god knows where. Dry sump to me is overrated. Its great if you can afford it, but not completely necessary. Just make sure that your wet sump system is well sorted and well thought out.

The main thing I can tell you is keep it light and use the best valvetrain parts you can almost afford (the better you get, the better off you will be). I built a 383LT1 back in the day, and with a 6" rod and utilizing all the lightest materials I could afford, I was able to make power in the upper reaches of the PCM's capabilities and set the rev limiter to 6950rpms. That was a good motor.

Black_Jack

iTrader: (-1)

billet rod and piston are really light but pricey

frated420

I would run a moroso oil pan, -8an line or larger to the oil filter, and run a two quart filter. Lightweight parts in the bottom end aren’t really needed as long as everything is balanced, and might not be the best choice for a street app. from a durability standpoint. Just make sure you use good parts (studs, billet steel flywheel, balancer), as for valves and such. By all means keep it light, but again all that you really need are rockers. I'm a fan of the Yella Terra rockers, we have those on the boss' ZO6 pushing 900+ to the wheels and he could drive it every day if he wanted to. (As long as the sun is out.LOL)

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

well i have lentz rods idk there weight yet but there on there way

well i know im gettin pricey yay for me more money to spend lol

i just think i could make it a streetable car by keeping the power up top idk but i do
and i like the way a motor sounds turning 7k

im still trying to decided if i want l92s or the stage 3s>>>>any input

i have a truck i drive if need be and soon will have a bike so i dont really wanna drive this on the street as a d/d but if i wanna drive 2hrs or so to bristol drag strip kik some *** and drive back that would be great

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

The L92's can only be used if you go w/ the 6.0 bore. You need to decide on that first.

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

well thats what has me on the fence right now either a bored 5.3 block or a 6.0

SS101

iTrader: (2)

at 7K your probably gonna need shaft mount rockers...depending on your heads, jesel makes the best shaft mounts i know of, they come in a few flavors and have a series of especially lightwieght ones but they're priced accordingly. in any case, you need shaft mount rockers if you want to hit 7k continuously AND with streetable reliability (longevity). hydraulic should be fine as long as you keep it at or very near 7k.

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

so no higher than 7200-7300

with hydraulic

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

I wouldnt... Anything above 7k is solid roller territory in my book.. You might be able to get away with pushing it to 7200, but I would rather just go solid and save myself the major hassle later.

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

ok im lookin at comps solid roller lifters any good things about them

ChucksZ06

iTrader: (9)

You are not making any sense with your questions or your replies in my opinion you need a little more understanding of engines before you spec one out...

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

what are u talkin bout???

everyone seems to understand since there replyin

if you wanna knock it go to the next thread ok....thanks

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

ok seriously u have me a little irrate ok a daytona prototype car makes the high end power with a short stroke.........

hmmmm put a turbo on it so it makes more power on the high end i guess its a stupid consept why i would begin to ponder that ill never know

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I spun my 01 Z06 to 7300 daily for about 15k miles then sold it. I think LS1s were meant to rev My lt1 i only rev to 6100 but its a stock internal with 149k on the longblock.

jkwalkercchs

iTrader: (21)

sounds fun to me haha

any cam ideals for high end forced induction power???

tatasta

iTrader: (24)

Is your trans built to handle that type of rpm? I know what you are looking for, but just a heads up, a stock A4 will come apart much above 6400 on a consistent basis.

Good luck!!