Skinny

iTrader: (11)

This weekend I will be installing a cam. I've helped out with a couple of these installs before, and will have the same crew with me to help. I think we're going to do it a little different though. At the same time as the cam, a torque converter, trans cooler, and longtubes will be going in. Since the tranny will need to be out anyway, I think it will be easiest for me to just unbolt the k-member and lower the whole engine down so I don't have to pull the A/C condensor and radiator out. The hardest part on an LS1 cam that I've experienced is the valvesprings. Getting that little spring compressor under the cowl is such a pain. If the engine is lowered then I could just use the big valvespring compressor and get thru it in no time. Also I think I might be able to get away without having to recharge the A/C. Sure I'll have to pay for an alignment afterwards, but wouldn't it be worth it to save so much time and effort??


Anyway.. the real question here is about the lifters. I know one guy that used magnets to hold the lifters up, but I've also heard that if you just rotate the came a few times then they will stay up long enough for the cam swap... is this true?
Other than that, any tips would be much appreciated.

I have similar threads for the headers and torque converter. Check them out if you have some tips for those. Thanks!

header thread
torque converter thread

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

well....

1) don't unhook the AC lines and instead just unbolt the compressor from the block and strap it to something (hang it).....when I did my install, I did it with the engine in the car and didn't unhook any AC lines....I just removed the radiator and let the AC condensor hang on the lines down to the floor.....

2) as long as you don't mess with the lower a-arm bolts (the alignment ones on the k-member), the alignment won't change.....just drop down...do your work....bolt back up.....

3) if you can lower the engine, trans, and k-member out from under the car all at once, then that should make things much easier.....

4) most of the time the lifters will "stick" up but all it takes is one to just wipe your entire day.....I would say just get the magnets and don't risk it.....

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Checkt he tools section. I tried the JPR lifter holder tool, sux. NEway, Al or Tony posted about using 1/8th" rod wrapped in velcro, softer, holds the lifters up in the event that they come out of the keepers.
I didnt d/c any AC either. Did mine in car, about 6hrs (wish I would have known the right way to set up pulley puller, that was almost 2hrs).

RICE ETR

iTrader: (3)

I tried to do the "spin the cam over" method.. but i had two lifters that wouldn't stay up... and a few others what would just barely touch the cam.... so i bought 16 $2 pen magnets, put tie straps through the clip so they wouldn't fall into the pushrod holes and tie strapped them up to hold the lifters. I would much rather do that then take the chance of one falling into the engine once the stock cam is pulled out.

Also DEFINITELY get the MORE performance valvespring tool. I got mine through Thunder Racing.....great bunch of people by the way...
It is like $130, but worth every penny. I tried the crank style compressor... i will never go back.

To get the stock dampner all the way off... once the bolt is too short to be used, remove the bolt and use a large socket to push on the end of the crank with the puller to remove it the rest of the way.

Goodluck

Quick98SS

I used the jpr cam install tool about 3 days ago for my tr224 and it worked great, with no problems.

sexychevygirl02

One thing, HAVE FUN!!! I rencently helped with a cam install, and it was a very long couple of days!

DEEZ98Z

iTrader: (5)

This is the way that I did my cam, header, and converter install It is not that hard... it was my first time doing it and only took like 3hrs to drop the k-member. I had a lift at my disposle so it made things alot easier. The easiest way is to drop the k- member and leave it in the exact place that you droped it, that way it will go right back in.

Here are some tips and things to look for:

1. you have to pull out your pcu to get to some other wires that run under it. The wires go through the fire wall and conect under your pass side kick panel.

2. Disconect every wire that conects the motor to the body of the car.

3. You will have to disconect the steering knuckle.

4. Take your front wheels off.

5. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONECT THE BRAKE LINES FROM THE BODY!!! There is a block that holds them in place, right below the abs block. I didnt see this and almost fahqd my brake lines all up.

6. Remove the y-pipe and o2 sensers.

7. Remove all the wires and lines that attach to the trans.

8. Make sure that you have atleast 4 jack stands.

9. DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE ARM FROM THE REAREND..... just from the tailshaft, that thing was a bitch to get back on the rear.

Like I said eairlier... try to leave the k-member in its place. If you have a digital camera take pics as you go along... helps with reassembly. Take your time and have fun. Oh yeah what are you putting in?

Good luck

Skinny

iTrader: (11)

Thunder 230, jet-hot LTs, and a Yank ST3500

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I know this has been said many times before, but the best spring tool by far is the $10 one from Napa Auto parts (others sell it as well.) Cut the handle off just past the hole, and grind the ridges off at the bend and it will work better than any high dollar tool you can find. I can email you a picture of the modifications if you want.

Skinny

iTrader: (11)

Yes, please do send me a pic if you don't mind. Is the modification so that it will fit under the cowl? If so, then I won't need to do it for this swap, as the motor will be lowered, but I would like to know how to do it for future swaps.

Chris99WS6PWTMET

Travis - Get in touch with me if you need a few more hands involved. You know I dont know anything about removing the whole K-member but everything else is gravy.

robertbartsch

back out the crank pulley bolt BEFORE you remove the tranny...

m1key99WS6

iTrader: (1)

If you going to have the engine on the ground use the Napa/autozone tool, it only took me 30 mins to swap all of my stock springs to 918's, and it only costed 12 bucks for the tool, and it works like a champ!

50ETR

matthew@azfbody.com
Can you send me the pics on how you did that Napa tool for the springs? Thanks I am doing a cam install this weekend as well.