What head and cam package
You'll hear a lot of different opinions on who's making the most power. I would set the car up right, (Good stall, right gearing, slicks) rather than make a lot of power and not get into the powerband, just my $.02 and a TTT for ya
Find a sponsor that is either near you or works with a good shop near you. If you are going to do all the work yourself, talk to the some of the sponsors about your requirements. "the most power" probably is not specific enough. I assume you are runnign the 1/4 and have some street driving to do. Some people have cars that they trailer to a track, others drive to work in the car everyday. Some people can live with a car down 2 weeks a month. Some cant. All of these factors are going to change what combination is good for you.
chris
chris
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm am really looking for an all around performing car not just a straight line. There are some many combos out there to pick from.
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My car pulled 405.5 RWHP and 385.1 RWTQ through full exhaust and cats. Give me an ORY and a cutout, and that number should climb to at least 420 RWHP.
My setup is: 228/224 .571/.568 112LSA 110ICL Comp cam, CHS Stage 2 5.7L heads milled .020" with REV 2.02/1.57 valves, 1116 dual springs, titanium retainers and keepers. I have all boltons except I still have my stock MAF and Throttle Body.
Cylinder Head Specialties puts together a great head for a great price. Since theyre not a site sponsor, you'll have to email or PM me to get in contact with them if youre interested.
I doubt you'll find too many other A4s out there putting down more power without going with a much larger cam, larger than 346 CI, or non-naturally aspirated. Most importantly, my car is very drivable around town. Has never once given me a problem starting cold or hot. My A/C still works and even in hot July heat with 100% humidity has not given me a lick of trouble.
My power band is very balanced. My peak HP is at 6200 RPM, so I dont need to rev super high to get power, and my torque is well over 300 ft/lbs at 3000 RPM. I have a Midwest 3000/2.1 stall convertor.
My setup is: 228/224 .571/.568 112LSA 110ICL Comp cam, CHS Stage 2 5.7L heads milled .020" with REV 2.02/1.57 valves, 1116 dual springs, titanium retainers and keepers. I have all boltons except I still have my stock MAF and Throttle Body.
Cylinder Head Specialties puts together a great head for a great price. Since theyre not a site sponsor, you'll have to email or PM me to get in contact with them if youre interested.
I doubt you'll find too many other A4s out there putting down more power without going with a much larger cam, larger than 346 CI, or non-naturally aspirated. Most importantly, my car is very drivable around town. Has never once given me a problem starting cold or hot. My A/C still works and even in hot July heat with 100% humidity has not given me a lick of trouble.
My power band is very balanced. My peak HP is at 6200 RPM, so I dont need to rev super high to get power, and my torque is well over 300 ft/lbs at 3000 RPM. I have a Midwest 3000/2.1 stall convertor.
GTP or ARE are costly but the best. All the other heads hog out the runner in order to increase the cfm. The problem with this is that you lose velocity which gives you torque and throttle responce. HP is TQ at RPM so TQ is the most important number. You want the smallest port pushing the most are. GTP's and ARE cost $2500 + but they will give you 20 + torque over the other heads. Just my opinion. As for cams, go with a reverse split. I run a custon 220/220 and make nearly 400 RWHP on a stock tune and stock heads. IF you want to buy one off the self, go with Thunder Racings 230/224. Its the only cam they sell that I would ever run. If you run this cam or any other cam for that matter, buy 5.3 heads or have the 5.7 shave to increase compression to 10.7 to 11.0
I believe I have that current package right now. Check Sig
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Joe.
.Joe.


Great numbers! 