MAJOR problem need advice
Rundown of parts
TEA stage 2 5.3 heads
B1 cam
7.4 hardened pushrods
Rollmaster double chain
MACs
gaskets, headbolts, misc.
I followed JMXs awesome instructions (really these are first rate). I torqued everything to specification. I made sure that I had the cam dots lined up perfectly. I did the motor spin check listed in the instructions just fine. Well I went to start up this is what happened. At first the instructions say spin motor for 4 seconds with coil pack harness disconnected. OK, motor spins over, and sounds like it wants to start. Cool. I am confident this thing is about to fire up. I reconnect the coil pack harness and turn the motor over for a few seconds. Damn, it doesn't start. I try again and it sounds like the motor is turning over, when after 1 second it just sounds as if the starter is only spinning. This sucks. I get underneath the car again, and check the crank bolt to manually check motor will turn. It does. Well I go try to start again. This time it sounds like the motor is turning over again when BAM. The motor siezed. S-U-C-K-S. What did I do wrong? I am resigned to the fact that I need to pull the cam back out at least. Does it sound like stuff got damaged? Any advice would be much appreciated. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
<small>[ February 05, 2003, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: Jerome99Z ]</small>
I always recommend pulling the fuel pump fuse for turning over and priming the motor. The engine will not start without fuel, and you won't foul your plugs or risk any hydrolock issues either. It's so simple to just pull the pump fuse. I would email JMX and suggest this as a change to the procedures IMO.
Todd
A 'BAM' could also be a broken starter. I broke a starter a few years ago, busted one of the tabs that a bolt goes thru. Don't even try running the car with a broken tab. Check that.
I think before that I would check the plugs. If you dropped a valve or had PtoV contact you might see evidence of smashed electrode tips.
Open up the oil filler cap when cranking the motor to make sure you still have a connected timing chain.
Drop the starter down, pull the plugs, and see if you can rotate the motor with a breaker bar. If the rockers don't move (oil filler cap) then you broke a timing chain or something. If the motor won't turn that's not good.
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Edit:
I found a pic of a rollmaster here, maybe this will help you to see what Wade meant. This particular engine needed +2 advance, so the keyway mark is one position further down than it would be at 0 advance. Note that when you change the advance/retard, you cannot go by the original timing mark on the crank gear anyways - that changes as well and should be remarked to correct TDC.
<img src="http://www.jperacing.com/rollmaster.jpg" alt=" - " />
<small>[ February 05, 2003, 03:08 PM: Message edited by: -Joseph- ]</small>
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Make sure the pistons weigh approximately the same....
Sorry!
If it was me, and I had the money, I'd probably just build a stroker bottom end with a Lunati kit, fix the heads and put it back together.
Good luck! Sorry man, that sucks dude. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
I've read over your install page thoroughly a couple times myself, and I was thinking to alleviate such an occurance from happening again from someone whom is inexperienced maybe you could go through the procedure of installing the bottom crank gear on a double roller set. It seems most people are going this route now anyhow. Rollmaster does provide some instructions, but they are a little ambiguous and I could see how this could happen to someone who is inexperienced.
Just a suggestion - your page is awesome how it is though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />




