Checking Pushrods (questions)
I am going to be following the Yella Terra Rocker install over at LS1 Tech. Here is the link for that article:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=21
Now, most of it seems extremely simple and very straight forward. I do have a question though regarding the installation of the first set of rockers. In the "how-to", he mentions doing a few things to get the right amount of "Pre-Load" when installing the aftermarket rockers. I believe he is doing this to determine whether or not the shims included with the kit will need to be used.
I am going to be removing the rockers and checking the pushrods, then when I am satisfied...I will be putting all the STOCK COMPONENTS back. I will not be installing any aftermarket rockers/pushrods/springs. All I'm doing is verifying the integrity of the stock parts.
So, this is what I need to know on my end. Since I am working with totally stock components and will be replacing all the stock components, do I need to worry about those steps in the How-To regarding the pre-load? Since I am putting all back together as it was, all I need to do is pull them out, check them, and then just drop the mounting screws back into the rockers and torque them right away to the 22lb specification, right?
Any insight or advice anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I was just going to visually inspect the springs without removing them. Remove the rockers and pull out each pushrod and check to see if any are bent.
At one point should I turn the motor over, and how do I do that? Also, why should I be turning over the motor?
How will I know if the torque I put on the rockers is not enough? Am I looking for the rockers to lift?
I have new plugs/wires sitting here as well, although I really wasn't planning on installing those tomorrow. If they plugs are still in the motor when I spin it via the balancer bolt, what will/could happen?
Also, I went to Install University and looked around. I saw many articles that could help out on other projects, but did not see anything related to a Cam Swap. This is what I found under LS1 Install University through a google search:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
How will I know if the torque I put on the rockers is not enough? Am I looking for the rockers to lift? No, your looking to see if the rockers need torqued again to 22; as in did it release some of the torque. So torque them once to 22, spin the crank, check torque again.
I have new plugs/wires sitting here as well, although I really wasn't planning on installing those tomorrow. If they plugs are still in the motor when I spin it via the balancer bolt, what will/could happen? It will be difficult to turn over that's all.
After re-installing the stock rockers, I need to torque them to 22lbs and then spin the motor via the balancer bolt. Spinning the motor will cause the pushrods to lift up on the rockers and this action could cause them to come loose. I then need to torque them again to 22lbs to verify that they are still indeed within specs.
And in order to turn the motor, I need to put a wrench on the balancer bolt and turn that. In the following image, is this exactly what I need to turn in order to rotate the motor?
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I'll probably remove the rockers/pushrods and check them all out next time I get a chance. Hopefully that's next weekend. I took a look at where the balancer bolt was at, and HOLY CRAP that will be a bitch to get to.
I don't really want to remove the spark plugs and do it all over again, but taking off the valve covers to get access to that stuff takes barely 5min. What is the best way to get at that balancer bolt so that I can spin the motor? How hard will it actually be to rotate with the spark plugs in? I'm worried about not having enough room to put a wrench on that bolt easy enough to really give it some torque to get it to rotate.
What do you guys suggest?
Anyway, here is the picture from underneat the driver side valve cover. I never took off the passenger one either, just simply ran out of time. With my very limited knowledge though, everything at least on the drivers side from a quick visual inspection looks good.
Or how would that work?





