Ebay selling forged Rods
Ebay selling forged Rods Do somebody had heard or tested these E Bay selling rods? GM LS/LS6/VORTEC 6.098" 6.348" 4340 H BEAM RAACING ROD, item # 360027501939. Seems to be a super deal, any opinion about them?
Last edited by Mike Cordero; Mar 4, 2008 at 05:05 AM. Reason: add info
dont, several producers will take the rods and pistons tht do not make the tolerances and sell them to 3rd party sellers. these people generally sell these items on ebay. A buddy of mine who was building a lightning bought some rods from ebay and thought he was getting a good deal until he had to take them to a machine shop to have work done to them. costed him about a grand more than if he had gotten them from a good dealer, but was in a time crunch. bottom line-dont do it
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From: Cleveland
I've seen a set of h beam knock-offs that looked good from a couple feet away...then you got up close and saw the hone in the big end. No cross hatch what-so-ever. The stones must have been eaten alive and the hone operator just let it eat....cutting huge gounges into it. Then the threads were so shot that THEY STRIPPED ON THE ROD VICE from a tap that must have been through a thousand rods. Just say no.
I have bought 3 sets of ebay rods and pistons on customers cars and they work great. The pistons where mahle with h beam rods. They are all on heads and cams cars with nitrous. Just a piece of advice.
ebay forged rods Can you check for the ones that I refers. I wrote the item # so will be easy to find. Would like to have your opinion about them. Any experience with those?
yeah i seen a set on there that were matched with a mahle pistons for 800 shipped... i talked to the guy on the phone and he seemed like he was confident in the rods and said they would hold to 800 horses... I was about to order the package from him on friday so if someone's used these it would be nice for some info... I plan on making in the 600 range on the bottle... and he said that the rods and pistons would work just fine...
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i bought a set off ebay, around $280, had the machine shop ck them out when all the other work was done, they were pretty good, but they did a little tweaking to get them to be "on center"
i havent fired it yet, but the clearances ck'ed out ok
i havent fired it yet, but the clearances ck'ed out ok
Last edited by forcd ind; Mar 5, 2008 at 06:21 AM. Reason: correct spelling
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Verdad Gallardo forged rods I appreciate all your comments. This could help all of us deciding if it's a good buy or just too risky and a loss of money.
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From: In your sisters panties
you get what u pay for; not to knock eBay, i shop on there a lot for my car (mostly visual stuff). It ain't worth the risk (to me) to save $600 on a set of rods that could cost you thousands in the event they take a dump and take your whole motor with it...
to me; that would be like spending over $15k for a totally built (S/C, H/C, stroked, juiced, ect) motor and using the cheapest oil you could possible get you hands on.
to me; that would be like spending over $15k for a totally built (S/C, H/C, stroked, juiced, ect) motor and using the cheapest oil you could possible get you hands on.
I used rods that I bought off ebay in my last 408(made 482 rwhp), and a friend of mines 00 T/A (also 408)with no problems at all. What people dont realize...is that there is only 2 or 3 companies that "manufacture" connecting rods(their all overseas), and you wouldn't know their name if someone told you. Companies like scat,eagle,etc. dont "make" rods at all. They buy from an overseas manufacturer and finish machine (check clearances) the rods and put their logo and part # on them. Same thing with lifters, do a search (google) and see where this stuff is actually made, it will suprise you. So with that said...the $400 h-beam rods you buy from a sponsor, and the rods you buy from the "no name"....or manufacture direct wholesaler off ebay for $260 are the same rods. Your paying for the packaging. Both motors we've used the H beam 6.125 rods we've bought from wholesalers off ebay for are still busting *** at the track and are driven daily. One has 43,xxx miles on it an the other has 28,xxx miles on it.
My advice to the OP is...look at the people who are telling you not to do buy the rods...and ask if they have used them first hand. 99% of them have never used them and are listening to what a salesman at a speedshop has told them, because they don't know any better. Order the rods, take them to the machine shop, and if in the unlikley event that their is an issue with them return them and get another set, if not... build the motor and laugh at everyone else that paid 2x what you did for rods. Thats what I did.
just my .02
My advice to the OP is...look at the people who are telling you not to do buy the rods...and ask if they have used them first hand. 99% of them have never used them and are listening to what a salesman at a speedshop has told them, because they don't know any better. Order the rods, take them to the machine shop, and if in the unlikley event that their is an issue with them return them and get another set, if not... build the motor and laugh at everyone else that paid 2x what you did for rods. Thats what I did.
just my .02
Last edited by 408z28; Mar 6, 2008 at 12:36 AM.
I used rods that I bought off ebay in my last 408(made 482 rwhp), and a friend of mines 00 z28 with no problems at all. What people dont realize...is that there is only 2 or 3 companies that "manufacture" connecting rods(their all overseas), and you wouldn't know their name if someone told you. Companies like scat,eagle,etc. all buy from an overseas manufacturer and finish machine the rods and put their logo and part # on them. Same thing with lifters, do a search (google) and see where this stuff is actually made, it will suprise you.
Advice to the OP...look at the people who are telling you not to do buy the rods...and ask if they have used them first hand. 99% of them have never used them and are going on what a salesman at a speedshop has told them. Order the rods, take them to the machine shop, and if in the unlikley event that their is an issue with them return them and get another set, if not... build the motor and laugh at everyone else that paid 3x what you did for rods.
just my .02
Advice to the OP...look at the people who are telling you not to do buy the rods...and ask if they have used them first hand. 99% of them have never used them and are going on what a salesman at a speedshop has told them. Order the rods, take them to the machine shop, and if in the unlikley event that their is an issue with them return them and get another set, if not... build the motor and laugh at everyone else that paid 3x what you did for rods.
just my .02
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 437
Likes: 2
From: Cleveland
I used rods that I bought off ebay in my last 408(made 482 rwhp), and a friend of mines 00 T/A (also 408)with no problems at all. What people dont realize...is that there is only 2 or 3 companies that "manufacture" connecting rods(their all overseas), and you wouldn't know their name if someone told you. Companies like scat,eagle,etc. dont "make" rods at all. They buy from an overseas manufacturer and finish machine (check clearances) the rods and put their logo and part # on them. Same thing with lifters, do a search (google) and see where this stuff is actually made, it will suprise you. So with that said...the $400 h-beam rods you buy from a sponsor, and the rods you buy from the "no name"....or manufacture direct wholesaler off ebay for $260 are the same rods. Your paying for the packaging. Both motors we've used the H beam 6.125 rods we've bought from wholesalers off ebay for are still busting *** at the track and are driven daily. One has 43,xxx miles on it an the other has 28,xxx miles on it.
My advice to the OP is...look at the people who are telling you not to do buy the rods...and ask if they have used them first hand. 99% of them have never used them and are listening to what a salesman at a speedshop has told them, because they don't know any better. Order the rods, take them to the machine shop, and if in the unlikley event that their is an issue with them return them and get another set, if not... build the motor and laugh at everyone else that paid 2x what you did for rods. Thats what I did.
just my .02
My advice to the OP is...look at the people who are telling you not to do buy the rods...and ask if they have used them first hand. 99% of them have never used them and are listening to what a salesman at a speedshop has told them, because they don't know any better. Order the rods, take them to the machine shop, and if in the unlikley event that their is an issue with them return them and get another set, if not... build the motor and laugh at everyone else that paid 2x what you did for rods. Thats what I did.
just my .02
This statement isn't completely accurate. The Forgings come out of a couple different places, but the rod designs are indeed different between the big companies. You have to give them a print. Some a little thicker here and a little thinner there...which makes the difference in reliability. As for finish machining, it can be done there or in the U.S. and it's a completely different level of workmanship. There are certain companies that major engine builders won't buy from because they've got a 50% inspection failure rate and it's not worth shipping stuff back and forth or having to spend $200 to cut the caps and re-hone. When the threads are screwed up...it's impossible to make right. It's tough to inspect and you won't know there's a problem until they break.
This statement isn't completely accurate. The Forgings come out of a couple different places, but the rod designs are indeed different between the big companies. You have to give them a print. Some a little thicker here and a little thinner there...which makes the difference in reliability. As for finish machining, it can be done there or in the U.S. and it's a completely different level of workmanship. There are certain companies that major engine builders won't buy from because they've got a 50% inspection failure rate and it's not worth shipping stuff back and forth or having to spend $200 to cut the caps and re-hone. When the threads are screwed up...it's impossible to make right. It's tough to inspect and you won't know there's a problem until they break.
