BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Alright just a quick qestion I hope.
I was putting in LT headers and the kmember needed to come down to get the passanger side in. So I just droped it since I have a spare one that I'm going to replace it with. I need to change the oil pan gasket as well, so I figured I'd order some rod bolts being I have a 98. ARP is the brand I was thinking about, trying to get them in by the weekend. Summit offers two different one's for our car's which one's should I use.
Only mods are converter and nitrous. Run's high 11's in the 1/4 and I plan on a cam and heads for summer, so Im sure these will be needed very soon.
LMK your guys thoughts.

Thanks in advance
ARP 134-6006
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

ARP 234-6301
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

jessedale98

iTrader: (16)

TTT. I was thinking about doing this aswell.

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

your going to have to get the rods resized when you install new rod bolts, give katech a call, I think they sell a rod bolt that does not require having the big ends resized. DO NOT just throw in a set of ARPs and think you will be ok, it will screw up the bearing clearances without resizing them

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

You can throw the arp's in as is, but instead of using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts I would use a bolt stretch gauge to get proper clamping force in order to ensure proper bearing clearance.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

So how do I get them resized, if I order them and want to install how do I know they're bigger? So should I even go through the trouble of having them replaced or just stick with 98's 118k miles?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Id stick with stock until the engine finally lets go someday, then do a full rebuild.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Alrght then I guess I'll just leave it alone, I did a search and it looks like some have to do some resizing. I'll probaly just stick to the stockers for awhile, any other suggestion's?

lmt0705

iTrader: (7)

like I said yesterday, call katech, they sell a rod bolt that supposivly does not require resizing, the rods need to be removed from the engine and taken to your machine shop for resizing

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

The Katechs were on backorder when I tried to get some before Xmas and pricey too at about $175 if I remember. I decided keep the stockers and just keep it under 6500 when the H/C and tune get done.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking that anything after 6k and it would need upgraded rod bolts, right now the highest it goes is 6100k rpm. Is 65000k the max rpm with stockers, if so I'll just keep under when doing the h/c swap.

Thanks

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

I pulled off the oil pan, and noticed that the timing chain has some play. Read on here though that ls1's are like that, any input?

chuckyt1

iTrader: (33)

I called ktech last week and they are still on backorder. I have an '02 and shift the stock bottom end at 6900. There are a lot of threads about not using ARP's without resizing but not one thread, that I have seen, about an actual failure caused by doing this. I'm putting in a new K also and am thinking about doing the same thing...

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I was thinking of doing this as well, my dad is a mechanic and is also skeptical if its a good idea, but was considering doing them 1 at a time...still not sure if its a good idea

I'd like to take full advantage of the cam I want, it seems the TR230/224 might want to go a little past 6k

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

On the oil pan gasket, do I just drill out the two rivets that are on there? I'm really tempeted to do a cam, oil pump and chain but I'm just going to hold off.