OK I searched a lot and found a lot for re-installing the crank bolt, but not a lot for removing it. I have the breaker bar, the socket and a 3 ft piece of pipe and still cant break free the crank bolt. Its it OK to set the hot wrench on it for a bit, or am I gonna mess stuff up? BTW I have already bent a 3" extension trying to get this thing off.

NOW.....perhaps I am a bit thick, but I am a bit mixed up with the re-install. I PLANNED on using the stock bolt. I also planned on seating the pully back on with a block of wood and a hammer, and then installing the bolt. I have read pros and cons of going to a longer crank bolt. Again, I am mixed up on torquing the crank bolt on, then taking it off, and putting it back on. Why would you put it on, take it off and then put it on again?

Can somebody explain the install in idiots terms so I can understand. I have come this far w/o breaking anything, don't wanna start now.

 

OK scratch the removal, I got it.......but if someone could explain the re-install a little clearer, I could be very grateful!!!!!!!

 

ill be doing this tomorrow, howd you end up get it off? just looking for all the tips, lol

 

The procedure to reinstall the crank pulley bolt has been writen up many times, LS1HowTo has a few as well as other..

Use a longer bolt with a few washer and a lot of grease on the washer.. get a bolt about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch to seat the pulley, then remove it. Once it is on and seated then use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft, torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. or as much as you can. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.

Take a NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and turn the bolt 140 degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some, so you well need to lock the crank or flywheel, put in gear, etc.
I suggest marking the bolt and pulley at where you start and where you want to stop..(140 degree).

Good luck

 

I know its been written up many times, but with the debates and such bbout bolt length, it wasn't clear to me.....you made it very clear, just need to buy another bolt and be on my way.

In reference to taking the bolt out, I just muscled it out. I bent a 3" 1/2 drive extension in the process, but its out !!!

 

Damn, thats tough. I used some muscle, then an electric impact to take mine off

 

Tell me about it...good thing I ate a can of spinach beforehand!!

 

Don't use a longer bolt, many have ruined their crank with this method. Make a tool for installation, then follow the manual. Ls1howto is wrong for this installation.

 

I advise that you do not pull the pulley back on with a bolt but use a threaded rod (or a bolt long enough to use as a threaded rod) as pictured above. Get the bolt screwed into the crank a good ways and then using a nut and washers pull the pulley on.

 

Can you send me the "ingrediants" for that tool you pictured? I know its nuts, washers, and all thread, but the sizes are what I am looking for. When using that tool, how do you know when to stop? Do you torque that nut to 240 or as close as you can get as one would in the ls1howto article or no?

 

Thread is M16X2mm. The threaded rod I used was 300 mm long. Basically, thread rod in all the way and turn back out 1/2 turn, pull on pulley until it stops using nut and washer stack, lubricate threads under nut. Then remove threaded rod and use old bolt to tighten to 240 lb-ft, remove and install new bolt per GM procedure.

 

I had my motor on the engine stand, so putting the car in gear would have....just put the car in gear!! Anyway, I tried my 1/2" drive pneumatic impact, which usually has a lot of *****, but this time, and the first time EVER, it wasn't enough. So, I borrowed a friends 3/4" drive pneumatic impact and used a 3/4-1/2 reducer/adapter to drive my 1/2 drive socket (from the 3/4 drive impact), and hoped like hell it didn't twist off the adapter/reducer!!! It didn't, but it still took most all of the big 3/4 drive's torque to finally twist it loose!!! I know.....not everyone has a buddy w/a 3/4 drive impact. I got lucky. AND....it was still a hell of an ordeal. I agree w/vettenuts as to the threaded rod idea. You can usually find something like this at a place (around here, anyway) like Mid-States bolt and screw, or Fastenal, etc.. Check out the Yellow pages if the local hardware is fruitless. I am still trying to figure out how I'm gonna hold onto this beast to try and torque down the damper when it comes time for the re-install!! By the way, I went with an ARP balancer bolt, as I thought I would have my hands full just trying to get to 240 ft. lbs. of twist, never mind the trying to figure out and see the extra 140 degrees of extra angle!!! Good luck.

 

where can i find that length of threaded rod??

 

Any local hardware store should carry.


FYI to this thread...The LS7 Crank bolt is about ~1inch longer than the LS1 bolt, MORE than enough to thread into the crank to seat the pulley.

 

This past weekend I did this such thing. To put the pulley back on we used the ARP bolt with out the washer. It worked and just pulled it on with the impact. One thing that was done before removal was we marked a length from the face of the water pump on the block.

 

Reusing the stock bolt to thread on a pulley is fine. I've been doing it for 10 years.

Just make sure to remove it, and use a new bolt covered in Red loctite.

 

agreed, ive used the stock bolt to pull the pulley on a few times, just dont get greedy

 

take the pulley in the house...preheat oven to 350*/place pulley on an oven rack for about 15 minutes....then take it back to your car and slide it on....

this works great it wont slide all the way on but will go on enough to safely pull it the rest of the way on using youre old bolt....you have to work fast cause the pulley starts cooling off really fast....

 

best use for oven mitts I have heard of in a long time!!!

thanks for the tip

 

+1, heating up the pulley makes it expand so it will slide over the nose of the crank a lot easier, that is how I got mine on the car