BES Stroked Nova

iTrader: (24)

i voted 6800. Reasons being I ran my 98 stock short block with 125k+ 7k everytime down the strip and drove it to school for 15k after cam install still with no problems.

Keep good oil in it, change if a little more often. AND DONT WORRY ABOUT IT!


Also, I can't see the stock bearing being the weak point... When I had stock long block and ARP's and i reved that 7k+ several times daily... for a long time... and my new motor is a stock 6.0L short block with different bearings, balanced with ARP pro's... For now its reved to 7300... but after my trans is built and the tune is done, I am looking to shift about 7500 to 7600...

thats my .02

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

600 labor my god thats insane...it took a whole hour to drop my k member and an hour to do the bolts and bearings...bout the same going back....an engine support and a lift are a must though...but any big shop otta have all that...godamn 600 bucks...

I would definatly have them installed though but not at that price..

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I would just save up the money for a short block and not worry about it. That is what I am doing. Some are going to scatter earlier than others. No one knows which one you have, but like was said before it is a risk that almost everyone here takes when they start trying to go fast. 750 would be a large chunk out of a forged short block.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Almost the cost of the crank right there..lol

darrensls1

I've heard the stock crank is not a weak point and good up to a 1000 HP or something like that. The most my car will ever see is around 600 to the wheels on spray. I was figuring on a $3000ish 347 SB build from LME when the time comes. It would just need to handle 450 rwhp, 150 shot of N20 and a 7000 rpm redline.

ZV8

iTrader: (2)

bank the $750 for a shortblock and just spin it to 6400, then when you got enough for a rebuild, raise it to 6800 and really run it hard.

but if you do rod bolts, get new bearing too since they are right there!

96autoformula

6 Bolt Mains. Go Big Or Go Home. 7k.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Correct the stock crank hs been fine for 800+ and you can use yours as long as its not ruined when you chew up your engine It also has to be prepped and thats not free. A new gm crank is 600 and this is where people say for $175 more you can be into a stroker.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i say 6800+. if you're so afraid of blowing it up, leave it stock until you can afford a solid bottom end. take some responsibility, this thread has done nothing but confuse anyone who reads it with regard to stock bottom end strength. man up and blow it up. there's only one way to find the limit.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=s346k;9159233 man up and blow it up. there's only one way to find the limit.[/QUOT

Haha.

darrensls1

I don't care about blowing it up. I expect it to happen eventually. I do care about spending ten thousand dollars on a car to see it blow up the first month and become a 3500 lb paperweight for 1-2 years.

If you don't like the thread then kindly

janaka

iTrader: (7)

i say the lower end of the spectrum and keep the money for the rebuild whenever that is.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

haha than why the hell are you investing in a cam that will require 6,800 rpm shiftpoints? knock the cam down to something in the high 22x range and be happy for a long time. common sense prevails...apparently finding it sometimes is the challenge.

darrensls1

The idea is that the cam will be perfect for a forged shortblock that can handle 7K rpm's all day. Now I could get a small cam that makes less power but why buy two cams? And who puts a 22x cam in a track only car?

Lets say this setup makes 450 rwhp @ 6600 rpm's and holds steady till 7100 before starting to drop off. If I shift at 6400 rpm's would I be leaving power on the table? Of course. But I would still be making better power then say a TR224. I would still have the "right" cam when I do get the forged shortblock. I would still enjoy a relatively fast car while I save for the shortblock. Plenty of common sense there. But if I can get away with 6500, 6600 or whatever then it's even better. Hence this poll.

Getting the stock shortblock to last 2 seasons is my goal. I am looking for input on what rpm shiftpoint will best suit my goal without being too extreme or too conservitive. What I don't need is someone like you in the thread contributing absolutely nothing other then stirring the pot and trying to **** me off.

Lets kindly leave it at that.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

meh. i am trying to be helpful and introduce you to other options than overcamming a stock shortblock, having difficulty tuning it, driving it, *enjoying it, and ultimately blowing it up. if you only wanted 100 passes or so out of it i'd say do whatever, but 2 seasons? do you race often? do you have any idea how many passes will be made in a SEASON? i'm not trying to be a dick, i just don't want to see you posting up in august with the "well it blew up" thread and then ranting about how everyone else is spinning their stock **** to the moon and back. $350 will get you a *new cam. don't tell me you can't save that much over the course of the next 2 years in an effort to save your stock short.

wake up man, for every donkey dick cammed car shifting @ 7k there are 5 that spun a bearing idling in the driveway.

darrensls1

Overcamming? How many MS3, MS4, Trex, megadeath and Hellion cams are out there right now in stock shortblocks? It might be "overcamming" for a daily driver but for a track only car anything in the 2xx is undercamming.

Do you not see my sig? I didn't get that time sitting in my driveway or driving to the mall

I hit the track 2-3 times a month. I'll make about 5 passes per track visit. My season here in NY is may-september. So we got 5 months of 15 passes per month = 75. Now I'll pad an extra 25 passes just to be safe and say 100 passes per season or 200 over two seasons. Which I ALL READY SAID PREVIOUSLY.

I think you are trying to be a dick. And furthermore I think you are succeeding. The point is I don't need to waste $350 on a new cam. Lets say I shift early and only make 420 rwhp instead of 450. That's not the end of the world especially when I know the next motor will handle the full potential. It's common sense. I'm not debating my setup. I'm only debating the shiftpoint to use "for now".

7K was NEVER under consideration which is why it's not in the poll options. And as far as I am conserned for every 5 that spun a bearing at 7K rpm's there are 15 that lasted 2+ years at 6800 or less. Problem is many of those are 01-02 models which had stronger rod bolts. Hence why I specified 99 year model in this poll.

You are not contributing anything useful even though you think you are. And you definately are coming off as a dick even if you don't mean to.

Now just let it go.

1320 killer

iTrader: (6)

I ahve spun mine even higher than 6800 with no problems.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

Goes Back To The Basics .. You Gotta Pay To Play, You Will Never Escape This Fact


I Spin To 6800 And Spray A 150rwhp Shot On My Donky Dicked 4000 Stalled Stock Short Block But Hell The Sooner I Blow It Up The Sooner I Build A 408 So Im Fine With The Fact That It Might Not Last Forever...(although It Seems To Be Holding Up Fine)

This All Being Said I Wouldent Even Reuse A Cam After A Engine Faiure, Cams Are Cheep And Theres Always Better Ones Comming Out... Buy A Cam For Today And Get A New One With A New Motor...

And If You Cant Afford This Then You Probally Shouldent Be Raceing

darrensls1

That goes without saying.

That's awesome!

Well the idea is to not blow it up at all. With any luck I'll have the forged motor + install money before anything happens. Then I can swap parts from one to another with no worries.

If not then I'll have Mike @ New Era inspect the heads and cam from the blown motor, make an evaluation and go from there.

I just spent 10K cash on top of the previous 3K in prior mods. I would hope that gives me the right to be racing

venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

With my stock short block I spun it all the way to 7200rpm no bullshit

I shifted at 6900rpm with no problem at all with 86k miles I say see what is the best shift point for you from beak power at the dyno

I didnt dyno mine but the car feels faster and wants more RPM Even with 3.42
when I shifted at 6500-6600rpm I noticed a big diffrence.