I need help and so the does dealership
#1
I need help and so the does dealership
Ok..... Here is the story.... I pegged the rev limiter and bent a couple pushrods. I replaced them all but the SES light wouldn't go off. I took the car to the dealership. They said they had to retorqe (sp?) the pushrods. After they did that they cleared the codes and said the SES light didn't come back. I picked the car up and drove it home. While sitting in the driveway the car was idling. The SES light came on solid then began flashing again. What could it be? Lifter? Valve? Spring? Need some help since the dealership obviously doesn't know what they are doing.
#3
The bill was for $320.00. They told me they thought that one may have been stretched??? After the retorque they put everything back together and fired it up and the light went off. They cleared all the codes and took it for a 7 mile test drive and the light never came on. I told them when I brought it in that it came on when the car was idling. I had drove the car a few days before and while I was cruising the light went off I then stopped at a light and the car was idling and it came back on.
#4
A pushrod is a metal tube. It rides between the lifter and the rocker. It does not stretch, it can get bent, it does not get torqued, the rocker gets torqued. The pushrod is trapped by the rocker and sits on the lifter so to speak... cam rotates.. lobe pushes lifter up which pushes the pushrod up which pushes up on one of the rocker while pushing the other down which opens the valve...
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 04-25-2008 at 12:31 PM.
#6
The invoice you got from the dealer almost always has some sort of guarantee of the work performed printed on the back.
Take it back and let them fix it again.
It could also be SES for an unrelated reason. It's part of car karma or something.
If it's something new you'll be paying again.
If it's for the same problem you won't.
Take it back and let them fix it again.
It could also be SES for an unrelated reason. It's part of car karma or something.
If it's something new you'll be paying again.
If it's for the same problem you won't.
#7
Thats what I meant. I am initially the one who changed the pushrods. They thought that they had gotten bent again. They pulled them out to check them and none of them were bent because I had already changed them. They put everything back together so they assumed by putting everything back together that it fixed the problem.
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#9
There is definatly something fishing about this dealership.... retorqueing the pushrods??? sounds like B/S
Unless you still have a warraty on your car i would never take it to a stealership.
That code PO300 is a multiple cylinder misfire...
Unless you still have a warraty on your car i would never take it to a stealership.
That code PO300 is a multiple cylinder misfire...
#10
Didn't have a choice but to take it to the dealership the SES light was still on after I swapped the pushrods and I didn't know what else could be wrong. I just want to know what to tell them to check since I have to take it back to them. They do offer a 1 year warranty on the labor so I don't have a choice now.
#11
PO3000 is random cyl misfire, if the light was flashing the ecm detected a missfire bad enought to cause catylist damage and shut fuel off to that cyl. You should be able to see it on the misfire counters, or in the misfire history on the scantool. Then you will find the problem cylinder.
#12
They said it was cylinder number 1 and thats why they thought I had bent another pushrod but upon disassembly they noticed that it was perfectly straight and they didn't know where to go from there I'm assuming so they put it back together and the SES light didn't come on. My question really comes down to why would the SES light only come on when the car is idling?
#14
Check the spark plugs and wires make sure none are cracked or burnt that can cause a misfire. Also make sure the fuel injector clip is on tight. Do you have any after market parts on the car? Did you bend a valve or do any other damage besides the bent pusrod?
#15
I would say you need to remove the valve covers yourself. And replace all the PR's with new hardened ones. Then re install everything and torque the rocker bolts to 21 ft/lbs and put your valve covers back on and change your plugs.
You can't torque down a PR . My advice is to never take it back to that dealership again. Ya when they clear the codes ya the light goes off. Until the ECM finds the problem again. Just do what I said and you wont have to worry about bent PRs anymore. Well atleast you wont bend the hardened ones as easy lol.
You can't torque down a PR . My advice is to never take it back to that dealership again. Ya when they clear the codes ya the light goes off. Until the ECM finds the problem again. Just do what I said and you wont have to worry about bent PRs anymore. Well atleast you wont bend the hardened ones as easy lol.
#16
I agree with bjamick don't take it back to the dealership unless you have a warranty with them. I would take it to a near by ls1/gm performance shop and let them know what is going on. In my experience they will be able to help you much better.
#17
Sounds like the dealership is full of sh!@t if they are telling you they retorqued the pushrods. Did they grease your muffler bearings while they were at it? I'm guessing the check engine light never went out, they probably cleared the codes and sent you on your way. you may have a damaged plug, a loose plug wire or the injector harness isn't clipped on well.
#18
Since I just payed them over 300 bucks I'm gonna take it back there unless they offer to refund my money. I changed the Pushrods myself initially but I didn't check anything else. The fuel injector clip was tight when I put everything back together the first time but the SES light didn't go off. I will tell them that they need to check the plugs, wires, and the valves.