Head/Cam install DONE!
TSP 232R 232/224 .595/.588 112lsa cam
Both are in!! w00t!
The car sounds awesome, it idles a lot rougher than I thought it would, but nothing tuning cant fix.
A friend of mine, Tim P did most of the work this weekend, since I had literally no idea what was entailed. I bought him lunch all weekend and I'll be buying him some 15" welds for his car, he deserves them! We managed to knock it out in ~ 20 hours, this was also with MULTIPLE rain delays, and a 2 hour delay because I bought the wrong pully puller, and 6 other people who we asked to go get us one didnt have the mental capacity to pick the right one up for us, oh well, what do they care, not their car right?
Whomever said that scraping down the block with the ice scrapper would ONLY talke 10-15mins is on crack, that took for EVER. I'd have to say the most daunting tasks were: Cleaning the bolt holes, pulling the crack pully off (**** you pully), torquing the heads, putting the crank pulley back on (**** you again crank pulley, we bent my OEM one, tim had an extra one), stupid radiator.
All in all it was 'fun' to say the least. I have to go get this thing tuned now...will keep everyone updated.
-Steve
I think you're on crack. Your car fired right up WAY smoother than the other 2 I've done. Tom agreed that it was way smoother than he expected. No valvetrain noise on startup was a BIG surprise. It idles fine but the computer needs some time to learn what's going on. Be patient.
The Patriot heads looked pretty nice in terms of the port work and finished results. I'll be interested to see what you pick up for HP. TSP sold him the whole install kit and it covered everything we needed to complete the job.
The pulley puller is an autozone OEM brand and the part number for the good one is 27011. Don't get anything else.
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The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Clean the inside of it before putting it back on with brake cleaner.
Clean the crank snout w/ brake cleaner.
Get a blick of wood long enough for someone on top to hold it up
Grab a big f'n hammer
have someone lay on the ground and pound away at that bitch
once it's on a little bit, get the OLD crank bolt and try and thread it in, even a little bit, then use a huge breaker bar combo and tigten it on, i *think* 150 ft/lbs then remove it, make sure the car doesnt move, cause it will want to, then, put the new one on, and snug it tight, i think gm spec is 37ft/lbs but we did 70, another vette tim did had it leak up there because it came loose !!!
-Steve
. I used a razor along with an ice scraper and brake cleaner. Longest part of the job for me. -Steve
-Steve
Let us know when you have some results! Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com

As for performance, I can totally tell my manifolds, exhaust leak, and ls1 intake are killing me, I have lots of work to do still, so I'm not expecting stellar results with this setup .......yet.
-Steve

