Pics of my 98Z engine build/Home head job
04-28-2008, 09:16 AM
#3
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What tools did you use to do the porting with? Looks good. I just bought a set of new LS2 heads for $640 from Scoggins and may want to do the same when they arrive.
04-28-2008, 10:42 AM
#4
good pics here too: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=porting+head
04-28-2008, 08:15 PM
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A friend at work did the porting. He uses Long carbide burrs and tapered sanding drums. I thought they looked great, but wanted to see what some of you thought. I didn't flow them but I'll test them on the track. I'll be using a 3200 stall, pacesetters, slp lid, Tr230 cam , tsp true duals, and stock 3.23's.
04-29-2008, 03:38 PM
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Very nice! Good luck with the build up.
I was looking at your sig there and what a fun truck that must be despite the slipping tranny. Nice !
Keep up the good work dude!
I was looking at your sig there and what a fun truck that must be despite the slipping tranny. Nice !
Keep up the good work dude!
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04-30-2008, 04:17 AM
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Thanks guys, and the truck is fun . As soon as the Z rolls out of the garage the truck/tranny build up goes in. I'll have to look for some intake shots. The heads are on now. Thanks again for the replies.
04-30-2008, 12:30 PM
#10
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I am picking up a new set of LS2 heads and thinking about doing the same. I just do not agree that you can't do a good job hand porting a set of heads on a LS motor.
04-30-2008, 04:13 PM
#12
1) Might want to go down to Sears and get a couple of those round wheels with grit-impregnated Scotchbrite stuff. Takes about 3 minutes per combustion chamber to polish them up. Do it with the valves in and don't slip up and run them across the gasket surfaces. I smoothed up and removed sharp edges at the valve boss.
2) For a little more air, get rid of the swirl ramp. Or, blend it in/ chop it down, allowing some effect at lower flow for more efficient combustion but allowing more flow at high throttle. (thats what I did).
3) It didn't bother me at all to actually blend some of the valve guide down to make a smoother transition to the valve stem as the air flows either in or out. Use sanding rolls for that, they take their time and allow for accuracy. Looks like you have a high grit last pass on that exhaust runner to ensure no reduced flow due to carbon buildup. 280 grit hand finish (about an hour of work and a few blisters) is what I did.
4) I unshrouded the exhaust slightly as well. Kinda undercut the area at the left of the CC inward near to the exhaust valve, without enlarging at the gasket surface. For an example look at the intake side. It's a call.
5) Finish up with a good valve job and consider backcutting the valves. There is not much material at the margin for the intake valves so don't completely grind all new angles into them if you can help it. Finish with lapping. Machine for desired compression.
Otherwise excellent blending into the guide. I did minor adjustments there to keep cut volume low.
The verdict is still up on mine but I've added 25% more Volumetric Efficiency than stock and it still wants more............new Cam in sig. es muy poqito. Engine bay looks stock.
--dan
edit: rock on, Ghost. Too many people think this is voodoo trickery. My intent was to smooth only, removing as little material as possible, maintaining the stock flow section characteristics.
2) For a little more air, get rid of the swirl ramp. Or, blend it in/ chop it down, allowing some effect at lower flow for more efficient combustion but allowing more flow at high throttle. (thats what I did).
3) It didn't bother me at all to actually blend some of the valve guide down to make a smoother transition to the valve stem as the air flows either in or out. Use sanding rolls for that, they take their time and allow for accuracy. Looks like you have a high grit last pass on that exhaust runner to ensure no reduced flow due to carbon buildup. 280 grit hand finish (about an hour of work and a few blisters) is what I did.
4) I unshrouded the exhaust slightly as well. Kinda undercut the area at the left of the CC inward near to the exhaust valve, without enlarging at the gasket surface. For an example look at the intake side. It's a call.
5) Finish up with a good valve job and consider backcutting the valves. There is not much material at the margin for the intake valves so don't completely grind all new angles into them if you can help it. Finish with lapping. Machine for desired compression.
Otherwise excellent blending into the guide. I did minor adjustments there to keep cut volume low.
The verdict is still up on mine but I've added 25% more Volumetric Efficiency than stock and it still wants more............new Cam in sig. es muy poqito. Engine bay looks stock.
--dan
edit: rock on, Ghost. Too many people think this is voodoo trickery. My intent was to smooth only, removing as little material as possible, maintaining the stock flow section characteristics.
Last edited by danf1000; 04-30-2008 at 05:07 PM.
05-01-2008, 02:53 PM
#13
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on that fourth picture it looks like you got a a sanding disc or smothing to smooth where the water pump goes hopefully not too much was shaved away i had that happen to me once and only once on an lt1 and had a leak from hell, aluminum is very easy to get carried away with, looks good though