tell me about this shortblock
06-17-2008, 09:06 AM
#1
tell me about this shortblock http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=821&catid=83
i have reason to believe my motor is toast. the car currently has PRC 1.5 LS6 heads and a Torquer v.3 cam. i don't want to move to a stroker kit because i love how the motor revs with the cam and lightened flywheel. what will be the effect of increasing the bore slightly and retaining the stock stroke? if i recall correctly (and thats a big if), higher bore also makes the car rev a little higher and decrease compression (obviously on a small scale since i'm barely gainnig any cubes at all). block must stay aluminum for weight reasons and i'm willing to change cams but i can't afford to switch the heads and intake at the same time. also since the internals will be forged, will increasing the compression (via miling the heads?) have a positive effect on the motor? thanks in advance for taking the time with me. the quicker i decide a path for this thing, the quicker i can have my daily driver back
ps- the alternative is just rebuilding the current motor
i have reason to believe my motor is toast. the car currently has PRC 1.5 LS6 heads and a Torquer v.3 cam. i don't want to move to a stroker kit because i love how the motor revs with the cam and lightened flywheel. what will be the effect of increasing the bore slightly and retaining the stock stroke? if i recall correctly (and thats a big if), higher bore also makes the car rev a little higher and decrease compression (obviously on a small scale since i'm barely gainnig any cubes at all). block must stay aluminum for weight reasons and i'm willing to change cams but i can't afford to switch the heads and intake at the same time. also since the internals will be forged, will increasing the compression (via miling the heads?) have a positive effect on the motor? thanks in advance for taking the time with me. the quicker i decide a path for this thing, the quicker i can have my daily driver back
ps- the alternative is just rebuilding the current motor
Last edited by qwikz28; 06-17-2008 at 09:11 AM.
06-17-2008, 12:25 PM
#2
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=821&catid=83
i have reason to believe my motor is toast. the car currently has PRC 1.5 LS6 heads and a Torquer v.3 cam. i don't want to move to a stroker kit because i love how the motor revs with the cam and lightened flywheel. what will be the effect of increasing the bore slightly and retaining the stock stroke? if i recall correctly (and thats a big if), higher bore also makes the car rev a little higher and decrease compression (obviously on a small scale since i'm barely gainnig any cubes at all). block must stay aluminum for weight reasons and i'm willing to change cams but i can't afford to switch the heads and intake at the same time. also since the internals will be forged, will increasing the compression (via miling the heads?) have a positive effect on the motor? thanks in advance for taking the time with me. the quicker i decide a path for this thing, the quicker i can have my daily driver back
ps- the alternative is just rebuilding the current motor
i have reason to believe my motor is toast. the car currently has PRC 1.5 LS6 heads and a Torquer v.3 cam. i don't want to move to a stroker kit because i love how the motor revs with the cam and lightened flywheel. what will be the effect of increasing the bore slightly and retaining the stock stroke? if i recall correctly (and thats a big if), higher bore also makes the car rev a little higher and decrease compression (obviously on a small scale since i'm barely gainnig any cubes at all). block must stay aluminum for weight reasons and i'm willing to change cams but i can't afford to switch the heads and intake at the same time. also since the internals will be forged, will increasing the compression (via miling the heads?) have a positive effect on the motor? thanks in advance for taking the time with me. the quicker i decide a path for this thing, the quicker i can have my daily driver back
ps- the alternative is just rebuilding the current motor
Why do you think your motor is toast?
06-17-2008, 03:03 PM
#3
Staging Lane
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X2.
Also, it would help if you would provide some more info.
-What are your goals with the car?
Think about the long term...build a mild set-up now, then add more on down the road. Unless you're pushing 1000 RWHP, aluminum is a fine choice...and even past there, you can always go the billet route
. You can't go wrong with either a forged 347, 364, 383, 402, or 414. Just look at the prices...a 347 from TSP is nearly $1000 cheaper than the 364 and 383...which are the exact same price. a 402 or 414 or not that much farther up there, and they use the same block as the 364.
With that being said, several people are running 9's with blown 347's...so, no problem there. However, I'm going to go ahead and say go with a 383 set-up for the money. Same price as a 364, just uses a LS6 block, and there's more displacement. No replacement for displacement. They are also more capable of making more power and torque down low than a 347, which makes for a more fun street car...and later on down the line you can always shoot some juice through it, or slap on a nice 78mm turbo or so. Easy 600+ RWHP and can be very streetable if set-up right.
I won't say anything else until more info is given.
Also, it would help if you would provide some more info.
-What are your goals with the car?
Think about the long term...build a mild set-up now, then add more on down the road. Unless you're pushing 1000 RWHP, aluminum is a fine choice...and even past there, you can always go the billet route
. You can't go wrong with either a forged 347, 364, 383, 402, or 414. Just look at the prices...a 347 from TSP is nearly $1000 cheaper than the 364 and 383...which are the exact same price. a 402 or 414 or not that much farther up there, and they use the same block as the 364. With that being said, several people are running 9's with blown 347's...so, no problem there. However, I'm going to go ahead and say go with a 383 set-up for the money. Same price as a 364, just uses a LS6 block, and there's more displacement. No replacement for displacement. They are also more capable of making more power and torque down low than a 347, which makes for a more fun street car...and later on down the line you can always shoot some juice through it, or slap on a nice 78mm turbo or so. Easy 600+ RWHP and can be very streetable if set-up right.
I won't say anything else until more info is given.
06-17-2008, 08:38 PM
#5
i knew my car was running dangerously lean, i had it on the dyno and my AF was around 14:1 at the topend and much worse down low. i was cruising down the highway at 60 in 6th gear and i heard a popping noise and the motor revved up past 4k so i put it in neutral and shut it down. the police asked me to move it adn thinking it was just a hose getting loose and springing a vacuum leak i turned it on again but this time accompanied by more white smoke than i've ever seen come out the back of a car. i had it towed from there and just assumed i melted a piston or something. i never blew a motor i just figured i was risking a blown motor because i was lean. i didn't have time to get it retuned because i had my LSAT yesterday. the car broke on Sunday.
Diesel- my car is a street car so aluminum block is a must. the 400+whp i have now is plenty for me. i have no desire to go much faster. i don't race at all. i am gonna check out that TSP motor though.
poncho- you are right that i don't want an ls2, i didn't realize that. i guess i'll stick with a 346 then.
Diesel- my car is a street car so aluminum block is a must. the 400+whp i have now is plenty for me. i have no desire to go much faster. i don't race at all. i am gonna check out that TSP motor though.
poncho- you are right that i don't want an ls2, i didn't realize that. i guess i'll stick with a 346 then.
06-18-2008, 12:15 AM
#6
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Oh...I see. In that case, keep a LS1 block for sure. A 347 can easily make 400 RWHP, but a 383 can make more power down low and under the curve which make for a more fun street car. A 383 shortblock is $800 or so more than a 347...go with a custom grind cam with low duration and a tight LSA, and some necessary accesories...can make for a nice street car. It can also rev decently high for a street car and if you pick your parts right it will carry the power through 6000+ RPM.
Oh yeah...milling the heads would raise the dynamic compression...which would increase low end power a tad. If you wanted to look further into that, as a general rule...you get a 4% power increase for every one point raise in the overall compression ratio.
Oh yeah...milling the heads would raise the dynamic compression...which would increase low end power a tad. If you wanted to look further into that, as a general rule...you get a 4% power increase for every one point raise in the overall compression ratio.
06-18-2008, 09:36 AM
#7
Oh...I see. In that case, keep a LS1 block for sure. A 347 can easily make 400 RWHP, but a 383 can make more power down low and under the curve which make for a more fun street car. A 383 shortblock is $800 or so more than a 347...go with a custom grind cam with low duration and a tight LSA, and some necessary accesories...can make for a nice street car. It can also rev decently high for a street car and if you pick your parts right it will carry the power through 6000+ RPM.
Oh yeah...milling the heads would raise the dynamic compression...which would increase low end power a tad. If you wanted to look further into that, as a general rule...you get a 4% power increase for every one point raise in the overall compression ratio.
Oh yeah...milling the heads would raise the dynamic compression...which would increase low end power a tad. If you wanted to look further into that, as a general rule...you get a 4% power increase for every one point raise in the overall compression ratio.
