ls1 383 possible?
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From: Quinlan/DFW, Tx
ls1 383 possible? what would it take for an ls1 to have 383 cubic inch displacement reliably if possible at all? i want more CI's i saw a post that ls2 402's are pretty cheap how cheap? i would like to know as much about this subject as possible cause i am not very knowledgable in boring motors and such. thanks in advance.
James
James
TSP sells a kit for a 383 rotating assembly with forged diamond pistons, Eagle H-beam Rods, and Eagle Forged Crank with rings and wrist pins for $1,800. I know because I have on sitting in my garage now. 
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From: Virginia
Excuse my ignorance but what would you need to do to make that work in a stock 5.7 block? I was thinking about getting a 383 and installing a D-1SC.
Last edited by chieftransam; Jul 23, 2008 at 11:42 PM.
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ok still a new guy here with these engines what is a D1? plus i also read in that same post about the 402 that if you have a larger stroke than you have pistons it is hard on the motor i want it to be as reliable as possible. i cant seem to find the post i read though. the cam i am going to be putting in my car when move into my new house is a 600 lift would i run into valve to piston issues if i put the 383 kit into the car? i know that i wouldnt if i kept the stock stroke. i dont want to end up having to re-sleeve the engine just to do this also, plus i heard it was costly. how much does it cost?
how much could i find a used 6.0 LS1 for cause if it is cheap enough i will just put a kit on that and bore it a little to get my displacement. plus shoot me straight on the bore situation what do the numbers mean and how hard is it to do, id rather have a shop do it though how much is that? i know i have alot of questions and there will be more i want to know everything i can. but right now this post is getting long and i cant think of anything else im tired. thanks.
how much could i find a used 6.0 LS1 for cause if it is cheap enough i will just put a kit on that and bore it a little to get my displacement. plus shoot me straight on the bore situation what do the numbers mean and how hard is it to do, id rather have a shop do it though how much is that? i know i have alot of questions and there will be more i want to know everything i can. but right now this post is getting long and i cant think of anything else im tired. thanks.
a disc is a supercharger. a 402/408 can be just as reliable as an ls1 if setup right. you can get a 6.0 iron block for cheap and it will swap right in. an aluminum 6.0 is a little more money and it requires some modding. if you go with the iron block then do not try the 4.0 bore. you need to do a 4.03 408 because the blocks are not perfect.
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From: Quinlan/DFW, Tx
but isnt an iron block like 200 pounds heavier?? i dont want to add that kind of wait cause id have to be pushing around 600 horse and 5 something torque right to account for the gain in weight. <--not 100% sure about that though just what id figure.
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The iron blocks aren't quite that much heavier. It outweighs the aluminum by about 65-70 lbs. If the weight is a concern you can always pick up a tubular k-member and A arms and it will damn near eliminate the weight difference between the iron block and the aluminum. You won't be lighter but you won't be that much heavier either if at all.
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From: Quinlan/DFW, Tx
trust me i know about houston thats where i bought my 67 camaro from and i will never drive in that town again and i am a fellow Texan. traffic sucks!!!!!!! i was already planning on the k-member and upper and lower control arms along with the engine mounts. i thought the cast iron blocks were heavy as ****. please keep the info coming yall. i guess i will go cast iron then cause its cheaper but how much can you bore them and what are the best blocks? i want big bore possability in as small and lightweight a package as possible and as direct bolt in as possible.
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From: Virginia
Yes,the block needs to be honed to 3.905 which equates to a increase of one cubic inch. The 4.00 stroker crank will increase the the size of the engine a additional 36 cubic inches = 383 stroker. 
Last edited by david vericker; Jul 26, 2008 at 06:55 AM. Reason: mistake
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From: Virginia
Cool thanks..
How much would something like that cost? What kind of rotating assembly did you go with? I was looking at doing a 383 and then putting on a D-1SC later on so I would build it for boost. I need to see what kind of power numbers a 383 like that would put down.
How much would something like that cost? What kind of rotating assembly did you go with? I was looking at doing a 383 and then putting on a D-1SC later on so I would build it for boost. I need to see what kind of power numbers a 383 like that would put down.
[QUOTE=chieftransam;9808679]Cool thanks..
How much would something like that cost? What kind of rotating assembly did you go with? QUOTE]
Forged 383 Rotating Assembly
There you go my friend. Of course, that doesn't cover machine shop work, and all the little extra's that will go with the build, but its a forged 383 kit.
On a side note, if you're going to build it for boost, be careful with boring it. I mean only if you are thinking about making it a high HP application. Boring decreases the thickness of your cylinder walls which is very important on an aluminum block LS1 that is going to be making some serious power. I would recommend an iron block for a boosted app.
How much would something like that cost? What kind of rotating assembly did you go with? QUOTE]
Forged 383 Rotating Assembly
There you go my friend. Of course, that doesn't cover machine shop work, and all the little extra's that will go with the build, but its a forged 383 kit.
On a side note, if you're going to build it for boost, be careful with boring it. I mean only if you are thinking about making it a high HP application. Boring decreases the thickness of your cylinder walls which is very important on an aluminum block LS1 that is going to be making some serious power. I would recommend an iron block for a boosted app.
You cannot bore a LS1 to make it a 383. If you re-sleeve the block the expence is not cost effective...a stroker kit is the best bang for the buck.Apparently you have very little knowledge in relationship to the LSX world.I suggest that you do some serious research (heavy reading) before you attempt to mod your engine,there is just to much that you need to learn for this single post to cover.
^ True. You do need to do a healthy amount of research before diving into this project. I'll tell you that I am currently at $3,900 in my build and thats not including machine shop work, disassembly, or reassembly. Thats just rotating assembly, new heads (1200), used cam, head studs, and a entire engine gasket kit. After a FAST 92/92 setup, i'll be over 5K.
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From: Virginia
Well that is true... I didn't claim to know everything about the lsx world, that's why I asked the questions...so thanks for the information. When I decide I want to do the build, believe me I'll be doing tons of reading and talking to my shops back home and sponsors on this site.