biggest cam for stock stall
Here's what I would do:
SS4000 converter with the money you have. Plus a GOOD trans cooler(bar&plate) with -6 AN lines. Plus the tune to get the shifting right and delete the tq. management. With a drag radial, the car should go deep into the 12s.
THEN, when you get cash again, do a 150-175 dry shot with the supporting mods(fuel pump, SVO 30# injectors, HSW interface). The car will be sick with the nitrous and the SS4000.
Cam swaps are a bitch. You're limiting the cam choice because you don't want to buy a converter...So you'll get some junk cam that won't make much more power, and it won't lope nearly and nicely as you want....And you went through all of the hassle of doing the swap for nothing.
Do a converter first. It's one of the biggest improvements you can get with a stock car aside from a nitrous kit. You'll thank me later.
SS4000 converter with the money you have. Plus a GOOD trans cooler(bar&plate) with -6 AN lines. Plus the tune to get the shifting right and delete the tq. management. With a drag radial, the car should go deep into the 12s.
THEN, when you get cash again, do a 150-175 dry shot with the supporting mods(fuel pump, SVO 30# injectors, HSW interface). The car will be sick with the nitrous and the SS4000.
Cam swaps are a bitch. You're limiting the cam choice because you don't want to buy a converter...So you'll get some junk cam that won't make much more power, and it won't lope nearly and nicely as you want....And you went through all of the hassle of doing the swap for nothing.
Do a converter first. It's one of the biggest improvements you can get with a stock car aside from a nitrous kit. You'll thank me later.
There is a thread, I believe in the PCM section, with a
few pages of "cam, where do you idle at" anecdotes.
Of course tuning and how much you want to work at it,
affects the idle quality at a given RPM or the RPM you
will end up at, for tolerable drivability. But if you read
the info you can probably get a gut feel for how big
before really needing to roll over 800 and really load
up a stock converter.
The other aspect is that a "big" converter will let you
stay up on the torque curve of a "big" cam across
shifts, and the other other aspect is that your WOT
and high-part-throttle shiftpoints want to be set to
take advantage of the valvetrain capability and
motor output profile. Converter helps "soak up" the
gear-ratio RPM span and crunch it up toward the
peak. But the basic shifting also wants to be right.
few pages of "cam, where do you idle at" anecdotes.
Of course tuning and how much you want to work at it,
affects the idle quality at a given RPM or the RPM you
will end up at, for tolerable drivability. But if you read
the info you can probably get a gut feel for how big
before really needing to roll over 800 and really load
up a stock converter.
The other aspect is that a "big" converter will let you
stay up on the torque curve of a "big" cam across
shifts, and the other other aspect is that your WOT
and high-part-throttle shiftpoints want to be set to
take advantage of the valvetrain capability and
motor output profile. Converter helps "soak up" the
gear-ratio RPM span and crunch it up toward the
peak. But the basic shifting also wants to be right.
The only reason you should put in the baby cam is if you don't want to go faster. Doing all the work with the small springs, you are going to have to replace everything that you are doing right now. Just save your money a little longer and get something that is going to make you happy. You know that you are going to be a sad panda when you don't perform. Whats a little longer to only have to do the work once and not waste money?
Personally I'd do the ls6 w/ ls6 springs.. they are great cams and sound perfect for what you're trying to do.
I ran a patriot 226 camshaft which is 226/226 @ .050 112 lsa /w .585 lift. I went with home ported heads and I had them milled .025 so it helped quite a bit for the low end. The car ended up cutting 1.88 best 60ft w/ the h/c through the stock converter and 3.23 gear, and had a best of 1.95 full bolt on with stock converter. It was a rough idle at 750rpms, but wasn't too bad.
I ran a patriot 226 camshaft which is 226/226 @ .050 112 lsa /w .585 lift. I went with home ported heads and I had them milled .025 so it helped quite a bit for the low end. The car ended up cutting 1.88 best 60ft w/ the h/c through the stock converter and 3.23 gear, and had a best of 1.95 full bolt on with stock converter. It was a rough idle at 750rpms, but wasn't too bad.
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i wouldn't bother changing a cam only to retain the stock stall converter. IMHO the gains wouldn't be worth the effort. i'd be embarrassed to tell someone my cammed car was getting walked on by bolt-on cars. i managed to get my full weight 00 z28 a4 car into the 12.20s with stock suspension, ls6 intake, maf, and tb. lots of other stock parts, as well, but those are the ones worth mentioning. car had a 4k stall and 373s. getting a car to run is the result of a good combo. camming a stock stalled car is not a good combo.
to answer your question: biggest cam for stock stall IMO is the ls6 cam - but is not worth the effort required to get it in there.
add some rockers and an underdrive pulley, that would equal/surpass the gains of adding just a cam.
to answer your question: biggest cam for stock stall IMO is the ls6 cam - but is not worth the effort required to get it in there.
add some rockers and an underdrive pulley, that would equal/surpass the gains of adding just a cam.
i wouldn't bother changing a cam only to retain the stock stall converter. IMHO the gains wouldn't be worth the effort. i'd be embarrassed to tell someone my cammed car was getting walked on by bolt-on cars. i managed to get my full weight 00 z28 a4 car into the 12.20s with stock suspension, ls6 intake, maf, and tb. lots of other stock parts, as well, but those are the ones worth mentioning. car had a 4k stall and 373s. getting a car to run is the result of a good combo. camming a stock stalled car is not a good combo.
to answer your question: biggest cam for stock stall IMO is the ls6 cam - but is not worth the effort required to get it in there.
add some rockers and an underdrive pulley, that would equal/surpass the gains of adding just a cam.
to answer your question: biggest cam for stock stall IMO is the ls6 cam - but is not worth the effort required to get it in there.
add some rockers and an underdrive pulley, that would equal/surpass the gains of adding just a cam.
I also disagree with saying an ls6 cam is not worth it. 408rwhp/385wtq w/ an ls6 cam/heads in my current ride. Probably 375-385whp with a stock head application.
To poster.. make your car how YOU want it.
Excessive stain on the stock converter is prone to breakage IMO. A cammed car is going to want to push through the stock converter. It's your money, waste it the way you want to, as ineffective as it may be. I like to get my money's worth. If you modify anything it is going to more stressful than it was before. Thats part of modifying vehicles.
Well that's your opinion compared to my real first hand knowledge with said modifications.
Only way there would be any excessive strain on the stock converter would be a stroker or a bottle at low rpm, the small increases in power over stock h/c isn't going to hurt the converter, and a 750rpm idle isn't going to push the car around town.
Only way there would be any excessive strain on the stock converter would be a stroker or a bottle at low rpm, the small increases in power over stock h/c isn't going to hurt the converter, and a 750rpm idle isn't going to push the car around town.
I disagree.. not everyone is a track racer, and some people don't want the constant high rpm daily drivers more prone to breakage of tranny/rear end. My car went 11.98 @ 118mph on the stock converter.. and even if your car was only a couple tenths slower, I could give a ****, it's what I wanted.. a car that would be respectable from a stop and fast from a roll.
I also disagree with saying an ls6 cam is not worth it. 408rwhp/385wtq w/ an ls6 cam/heads in my current ride. Probably 375-385whp with a stock head application.
To poster.. make your car how YOU want it.
I also disagree with saying an ls6 cam is not worth it. 408rwhp/385wtq w/ an ls6 cam/heads in my current ride. Probably 375-385whp with a stock head application.
To poster.. make your car how YOU want it.
this is how im leaning right now. its not like i go to the track all the time maybe 1-2 times a year. i really only go wot during an occasional roll or when im out cruising with friends. so maybe i won't pick up much from a dig or 1/4 mile race but from a 30 roll i bet that extra 20rwhp will.
and for everyone that says cam swaps are a bitch, personally ive never done one, but the main reason i love cars so much is learning to work on them. maybe ill be kicking myself later for putting a such i small cam but its not lie im going to have anything better to do during the winter anyways.
Cam swaps aren't a bitch, they just take time and there are alot of hidden costs. You can pick up a yank for 650 and a cooler for 50 bucks. 700 bucks for a huge gain. If you don't want a converter, thats up to you. I think that it is alot more fun to drive with the converter. It really does boil down to what you want.
i probably wouldn't even be contemplating this if it wasn't for the one stalled car i've been in.lol i went for a test ride in a z28 with a 4k stall and full bolt ons and it felt like all the car did was rev real high and not really go anywhere. it felt like my car was faster. i don't recall the brand.
does anyone have a vid of their ls1 with a 3600 converter? my own tread is now
lol or maybe i should start a new thread.
does anyone have a vid of their ls1 with a 3600 converter? my own tread is now
lol or maybe i should start a new thread. I can say this, i didn't think my car was fast. Apparently I wasn't getting any traction, because at the track it slammed my head into the seat and lifted the wheels off of the ground on motor. I can't wait until I hit it with nitrous....Damn rain here. Even on a roll, it just didnt feel like it was fast. Again, at the track it pulled hard the whole way down the track. Just my opinion though, it sounds like your concerned with going faster, but you would be going down the wrong path. It's not like anyone here would tell you to do something that would waste your time and money, thats just not right.
