I now have new pistons, rods, bearing, rings, all that good stuff... What would you guys recommend doing to get a good breakin for the motor? I have already studied up and got the basics on how to drive it, so what i'm really looking for is info on oil and oil changes. What do you experienced guys think?

 

These are the instructions I recieved from scoggin-dickey. They worked great for me. My rings seated great.

Information and Break-In Recommendations for
Your SDPC Engine or Short Block

Thank you for choosing Scoggin-Dickey as your engine supplier! Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center opened its doors in 1929 and since that time we have been one of the leading suppliers of complete engines, short blocks, and engine components. It is our goal to provide you with the latest in engine technology and the highest standard of performance. Whether you have purchased a new OEM factory built crate engine or a custom built SDPC engine or short block, it is imperative that you take the time to read the following instructions in regards to engine oil, PCV systems, fuel systems, and engine break-in.

Today’s Oil and What You Need to Know
Motor oil has had several significant changes in the last ten years and more importantly in 2004 a decision was made to reduce the sulfur and the zinc-phosphorus compounds (ZDDP). The ZDDP is used as the primary anti-wear agent for internal engine components. Beginning with the 2004 model of new vehicles, the Federal Government has asked auto manufacturers to warranty catalytic converters for 120,000-miles.
Most catalytic convertors eventually fail from harmful gases emitted thru the exhaust, and two of these are the phosphorous and sulfur which were a prevalent make-up of our older motor oils. All engines will consume some oil thru the exhaust! While in most cases this is only a very small amount, the automakers decided it was time to change the chemistry of motor oil rather than adding to the cost of catalytic converters.
This change in engine oil has had a significant impact on the performance engine world, specifically engines with forged pistons and/or flat tappet camshafts. The lack of the zinc-phosphorus compounds has been a primary cause of premature failure in flat tappet camshafts and lifters. Current oils for gasoline engines have the ZDDP compounds reduced by 20% or more. We have seen an overwhelming increase in piston scuff and premature ring wear. We have torn down performance engines with less than 1500-miles and seen piston scuff and ring wear that looked as if the engine had 100,000-miles! All caused from super low viscosity oils with poor anti-wear characteristics and a lack of following proper break-in procedures.
If you have purchased a custom built short block with forged pistons and a performance ring package, then we have taken every precaution to coat the cylinder walls, pistons, and rings with an anti-wear agent. However, it is imperative that you choose engine oil with a significant amount of ZDDP and we require the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) for a minimum of the first 90-minutes. For forged pistons with moly rings or HD steel rings and engines with flat tappet camshafts we suggest an engine oil with a minimum ZDDP content of the following;

Approximate Percentage by Weight
Zinc – 0.120
Phosphorus – 0.115
Suggested Oils;
Shell Rotella-T 15W40 API Specification CI-4 Plus
Valvoline NSL Racing Oil 10W30 (Conventional Motor Oil, excellent for break-in!)
Pennzoil 25W50 Racing Motor Oil

PCV Systems
The LS-Series engines are prone to excessive crank case pressure build-up resulting in oil blow-by, oil consumption, and oil wetting of the intake manifold. One of the first changes from GM to help resolve this issue was the bay-to-bay “windows” placed in the main webs of the blocks. Any increase in cubic inches places more demand on the PCV system, regardless of the engine type. GM has made several changes to the PCV systems over the years and many consumers have a mismatch of parts and components. It is imperative that you inspect your PCV system and make certain that it functions properly. If you are using a factory PCV system it is required that you use a new “fixed orifice” PCV valve for routing your pressure relief hose from the valve cover. This valve is included with all custom SDPC LS-Series short blocks and engines. The GM part number for this item is #12572717.

Fuel System and Tuning
It is imperative that you make every effort to have your fuel system in proper working order prior to engine start-up. Inspection of the supply lines, return lines, filters, regulators, and proper fuel pressure are the responsibility of the car owner and/or installer. It is extremely critical that you have a PCM calibrated for the correct pressure and injectors before starting the vehicle. Any over rich condition existing for an extended period of time during the initial start-up will cause piston scuffing, ring wear, and severely hinder the ability for the rings to seat properly and may ruin the complete engine! It is the responsibility of the owner and/or installer to calibrate the PCM or the carburetor to prevent internal engine damage.

Engine Break-In
Use the correct engine oil with the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS)!! We recommend two 45-minute break-in periods allowing ample time between each for a complete cool down of the engine. Each period should consist of varied RPM and load with a limit on the RPM of 4500. Avoid extended duration of constant RPM! After the 90-minute period you should drain the oil and inspect the filter. Replace with a new filter and use one of the recommended oils from the list above or one that you have verified that has the proper amount of ZDDP. If you have purchased an engine with forged pistons it is imperative that you always use oil with sufficient ZDDP for the entire life of the engine! We do not recommend a change to Synthetic oil until a minimum of 5000-miles to insure proper ring seating.
SDPC does not warranty any application with the use of power adders i.e. – turbochargers, superchargers, nitrous. If it is determined that premature ring wear, ring sealing, or piston scuffing, and/or engine failure is the result of improper tuning, incorrect oil, improper installation, and/or the use of power adders, then all repairs, parts, materials, shipping expenses, and labor will be the sole responsibility of the purchaser.

 

You can never change the oil too often. I'd say change it after the first heat cycle, then after 100 miles, then after another 500 miles and then after another 1500 miles and then follow your own personal change interval.

A clean motor is a happy motor.

 

wow thanks a lot super! I will have to read it later when i have time lol but thanks for the post!

 

I wonder if the commonly used Synthetic oils have the right stuff for forged engines (Mobile 1, Pensoil platinum)?

 

So what about the PCV valve replacement? Is (12572717) this the new valve we should be using? Isn't there an easier solution?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1596228

 

anyone know about the pcv valves?

 

Well, I prelube the motor before start up (making sure oil pressure is there), I start it and check radiator fluid, then I go and drive it to redline like a bat out of hell, from dig, roll, high rpm/gas off etc.

I found over the years that the pistons seat in the first 20 minutes of operation, and breaking them in like that gives me the best seal on the rings. (Ok so I'm a drag head), no not a rag head, a DRAG head.

 

Well, after I warmed mine up, check all the fluids, I took it to my desired RPM range several times within a 100 miles... with several heat cycles. I changed the oil the first time at 200 miles to synthetic. Then I dyno tuned the car, raced the car a few times and I changed the oil again at 500 miles.

And I changed the oil again at 1k miles. I now changed it at 3k miles, after haveing 75 drag strip passes, 5 bottle's of a 150 shot ran through it, many many many many street pulls on it, and it burns ZERO oil.. and all this on a stock short block with rod bolts.

 

Yep^^
The guy who taught me this scared the hell outta me the first time he did this to my autozone long block we put in my 4wd k1500 in 1994. Never used oil and still going strong with over 250K now. Doesn't let ring gaps spin around and line up causing oil use is what he says. Two more GEN I motors since then I've built and both use little to no oil. My LS1 uses more (since mods).

He thought the truck was a dog cause I put big (tall) tires on it and it wouldn't run over 80mph which was corrected at 110mph which he didn't know about

Break it in like you are gonna drive it!!!

 

I put a somewhat easy 18 miles on my motor before it was fully dyno tuned. I made sure everything was working correctly before I hit the dyno. I changed the oil at 50, 200 and 350 miles using regular valvoline oil mixed with a break-in additive. I saw quite a bit of metal flakes (normal amount) in the first oil change but none since. I will be changing it again when I hit 1,000 miles and will be going to synthetic when I hit 2,000 miles.

 

That Scoggin Dickey recommendation applies to flat tappet haydraulic cammed engines, it is not for roller cammed engines.

I do similarly as Predator-Z mentioned, I do four runs at 75 % throttle using the 1:1 (M6= 4th, A4 = 3rd) ratio from 2000 rpms up to 5000 rpms then let the vehicle engine brake down to 25 MPH. Do not allow the engine to downshift in an auto. After the four runs, I inspect the engine for leaks or overheating, let it settle in temp. Once the temp is settled, I do four more runs. This time I go WOT from 2000 rpms upto redline or 6000 rpms, and engine brake down to 30 MPH. Done! Never had an engine fail.

This break-in procedure applies to engines on an engine stand or engine dyno.

 

i have a similar query, my car isnt road legal and when i get my new engine in and ready to go, can i let it idle at say 2-3000rpm for a few minutes while i check for oil leaks/water leaks without doing any damage?
i cant drive it up the road to check it out and will be trailering the car to a disused airfield to break it in. i dont however want to get there and find any leaks at that point so an initial static check period with the engine running would be better if its not going to glaze the bores.
i'd probably aim to have someone sit holding it at various revs for a few minutes max rather than idling at one rev point while i check it over, then shut it down and go drive it /break it in. will this cause any problems?

 

bttt anyone ?

 

Hmmm......?

 

Hopefully, the motor is primed. Straight 30W non detergent from the beginning. Run the car for 8-10 times 30mph-70mph at about 3/4 throttle, or on a dyno if have one. The rings should be seated. Change oil to 20W50 Valvoline, (or whatever you prefer). Cut open the filter and look close for impurities. Change at 100 miles. Check filter again. Change at 500 miles 2 more times. Then go to your favorite synthetic. This might be tedious, but look at the investment!

 

cheers for reply-its a worrying proposition bearing in mind the £££ investment in the block.
i can take the car instead to a dyno room (hub pack) which might be another option as it would be easier to watch for leaks etc while the car is being driven on the dynopack by the operator. he reckons they can run it in quite nicely on there if i want to go that route. probably cost about the same to do it on there as it would driving around an airfield but i would be able to spot leaks/temperatures much easier i guess.

 

to add tho, would starting the car and idling it at say 2000rpm for a minute or two without it being driven (dyno or road) while checking for oil leaks etc cause any probs in itself, as i'd like to check it over before loading it on the trailer to take it to the track or dyno pack?
cheers

 

Not an issue at all... Although idle is fine. I start it once, let it come up to temp while checking for leaks, shut it off, change the oil and filter while it's still warm, load it on the trailer and take it to the dyno, cane the **** out of it, take it home, change the oil and filter and hit the track.

 

thanks for the help and apologies for thread crashing. it was the initial start up and check that was worrying me as its a 2 hr drive to the dyno and approx $350 to get the car on it so any leaks would be costly.