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Replacing rods and pistons???

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Old 08-29-2008, 10:50 AM
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Question Replacing rods and pistons???

I've searched everywhere but I believe this is a more of a specific question than a general one.

Ok I've been wanting to do a Turbo setup recently. And I'm wanting to build a lower compression, stronger bottom end using the same block and crank. At first I only want 500-550 RWHP, but later I want to turn it up to no more than 650. Since I'm going to be getting a BMR turbo Kmember I figure why not build it why it's out.

Currently I have a stock LS6 block, stock crank, stock rods with ARP bolts, and stock pistons that have been fly cut. The motor was rebuilt recently and has roughly 5,000 miles on it. It drives good, works great and doesn't smoke a bit. So I know it's been put together right.

I would like to replace just the rods and pistons and rings. I want to use Eagle H beams and their forged dished pistons. I figure these will hold up just fine for my goals. Anyone disagree?? Anyways when I pull the motor should I have it torn down, inspected, cleaned, machined/honed, and all that stuff?? Or can I just knock the rods and pistons out and replace?? I did think about balancing the set before installing it but is all the block and crank machine work necessary on such a low mileage motor??
Old 08-29-2008, 11:14 AM
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Well ya if your going to be changing things around like that. I would think you need to have the block honed again. Also need to replace the bearings to, bc the other ones that are in the motor now are already broke in with your rods now.

I would have the bottom end balanced with the new rods and pistons. I see your in Cullman Al. I'm in birmingham right off of HWY 280 near Hoover. I've got a number to a Machine shop that is in Bessemer is you want it. He's the one that did all of my machining. He's cheap to.
Old 08-29-2008, 11:14 AM
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How many miles do you have on your motor? If you are taking the rods, pistons and the rotating assembly apart you might as well get it line honed and drop some ARP main studs in it. It may take you another hour to pull the rest of the bottom end apart if you are pulling the engine. A good machine shop can then pop in some new cam and main bearings for you. It's pretty cheap insurance considering what you plan on doing with the motor.

Also, the Eagle H beams are great rods and with a turbo it's best to run some sort of forged dish piston. Get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they have a 7/16" diameter vs. the stock 3/8" and have a much higher tensile strength. Call TSP and they can set you up. Just my $.02.
Old 08-29-2008, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bjamick
Well ya if your going to be changing things around like that. I would think you need to have the block honed again. Also need to replace the bearings to, bc the other ones that are in the motor now are already broke in with your rods now.

I would have the bottom end balanced with the new rods and pistons. I see your in Cullman Al. I'm in birmingham right off of HWY 280 near Hoover. I've got a number to a Machine shop that is in Bessemer is you want it. He's the one that did all of my machining. He's cheap to.
Thanks, yea PM that number if you can. I want to do things right just wasn't sure how much extra I needed to go through since it only had 5,000 miles on it.
Old 08-29-2008, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Halloran
How many miles do you have on your motor? If you are taking the rods, pistons and the rotating assembly apart you might as well get it line honed and drop some ARP main studs in it. It may take you another hour to pull the rest of the bottom end apart if you are pulling the engine. A good machine shop can then pop in some new cam and main bearings for you. It's pretty cheap insurance considering what you plan on doing with the motor.

Also, the Eagle H beams are great rods and with a turbo it's best to run some sort of forged dish piston. Get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they have a 7/16" diameter vs. the stock 3/8" and have a much higher tensile strength. Call TSP and they can set you up. Just my $.02.
It's got about 5,000 on it since the rebuild. I do plan on replacing the main bolts with studs and getting the rods with the ARP bolts installed. The forged dished pistons are the main reason I'm even going to pull the motor. I have 5.3 ported heads on it and hope to reuse them with some dished pistons and a slightly thicker head gasket. Maybe around 9.2:1 or something like that...

I'm not asking for any outrageous, crazy power just something fun and fast and different than what you see around here. But would like to have something that can handle it with no real problems.
Old 08-29-2008, 03:47 PM
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To do it right you need to have the cylinders honed, all the clearances checked and the block line honed with the arp studs installed.
Old 08-30-2008, 12:11 AM
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+1 for what Dave said. Just have it honed, balanced and clearance checked. Will save you a ton of headaches down the road...or just one huge migraine
Old 08-30-2008, 06:33 AM
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Hey I appreciate everyone! Hopefully right after the LSX Shootout I'm going to start tearing it down. Then I'll have it machined balanced and have new everything installed and never have to worry about it again. Thanks for the help!
Old 09-01-2008, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Halloran
If you are taking the rods, pistons and the rotating assembly apart you might as well get it line honed and drop some ARP main studs in it.
Sorry for the hijack, but why do you have to get the block line honed for the ARP studs? This is the second time I've seen someone mention this, and I don't understand why ARP main studs require line honing.




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