Replacing rods and pistons???
Replacing rods and pistons??? I've searched everywhere but I believe this is a more of a specific question than a general one.
Ok I've been wanting to do a Turbo setup recently. And I'm wanting to build a lower compression, stronger bottom end using the same block and crank. At first I only want 500-550 RWHP, but later I want to turn it up to no more than 650. Since I'm going to be getting a BMR turbo Kmember I figure why not build it why it's out.
Currently I have a stock LS6 block, stock crank, stock rods with ARP bolts, and stock pistons that have been fly cut. The motor was rebuilt recently and has roughly 5,000 miles on it. It drives good, works great and doesn't smoke a bit. So I know it's been put together right.
I would like to replace just the rods and pistons and rings. I want to use Eagle H beams and their forged dished pistons. I figure these will hold up just fine for my goals. Anyone disagree?? Anyways when I pull the motor should I have it torn down, inspected, cleaned, machined/honed, and all that stuff?? Or can I just knock the rods and pistons out and replace?? I did think about balancing the set before installing it but is all the block and crank machine work necessary on such a low mileage motor??
Ok I've been wanting to do a Turbo setup recently. And I'm wanting to build a lower compression, stronger bottom end using the same block and crank. At first I only want 500-550 RWHP, but later I want to turn it up to no more than 650. Since I'm going to be getting a BMR turbo Kmember I figure why not build it why it's out.
Currently I have a stock LS6 block, stock crank, stock rods with ARP bolts, and stock pistons that have been fly cut. The motor was rebuilt recently and has roughly 5,000 miles on it. It drives good, works great and doesn't smoke a bit. So I know it's been put together right.
I would like to replace just the rods and pistons and rings. I want to use Eagle H beams and their forged dished pistons. I figure these will hold up just fine for my goals. Anyone disagree?? Anyways when I pull the motor should I have it torn down, inspected, cleaned, machined/honed, and all that stuff?? Or can I just knock the rods and pistons out and replace?? I did think about balancing the set before installing it but is all the block and crank machine work necessary on such a low mileage motor??
Well ya if your going to be changing things around like that. I would think you need to have the block honed again. Also need to replace the bearings to, bc the other ones that are in the motor now are already broke in with your rods now.
I would have the bottom end balanced with the new rods and pistons. I see your in Cullman Al. I'm in birmingham right off of HWY 280 near Hoover. I've got a number to a Machine shop that is in Bessemer is you want it. He's the one that did all of my machining. He's cheap to.
I would have the bottom end balanced with the new rods and pistons. I see your in Cullman Al. I'm in birmingham right off of HWY 280 near Hoover. I've got a number to a Machine shop that is in Bessemer is you want it. He's the one that did all of my machining. He's cheap to.
How many miles do you have on your motor? If you are taking the rods, pistons and the rotating assembly apart you might as well get it line honed and drop some ARP main studs in it. It may take you another hour to pull the rest of the bottom end apart if you are pulling the engine. A good machine shop can then pop in some new cam and main bearings for you. It's pretty cheap insurance considering what you plan on doing with the motor.
Also, the Eagle H beams are great rods and with a turbo it's best to run some sort of forged dish piston. Get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they have a 7/16" diameter vs. the stock 3/8" and have a much higher tensile strength. Call TSP and they can set you up. Just my $.02.
Also, the Eagle H beams are great rods and with a turbo it's best to run some sort of forged dish piston. Get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they have a 7/16" diameter vs. the stock 3/8" and have a much higher tensile strength. Call TSP and they can set you up. Just my $.02.
Well ya if your going to be changing things around like that. I would think you need to have the block honed again. Also need to replace the bearings to, bc the other ones that are in the motor now are already broke in with your rods now.
I would have the bottom end balanced with the new rods and pistons. I see your in Cullman Al. I'm in birmingham right off of HWY 280 near Hoover. I've got a number to a Machine shop that is in Bessemer is you want it. He's the one that did all of my machining. He's cheap to.
I would have the bottom end balanced with the new rods and pistons. I see your in Cullman Al. I'm in birmingham right off of HWY 280 near Hoover. I've got a number to a Machine shop that is in Bessemer is you want it. He's the one that did all of my machining. He's cheap to.
How many miles do you have on your motor? If you are taking the rods, pistons and the rotating assembly apart you might as well get it line honed and drop some ARP main studs in it. It may take you another hour to pull the rest of the bottom end apart if you are pulling the engine. A good machine shop can then pop in some new cam and main bearings for you. It's pretty cheap insurance considering what you plan on doing with the motor.
Also, the Eagle H beams are great rods and with a turbo it's best to run some sort of forged dish piston. Get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they have a 7/16" diameter vs. the stock 3/8" and have a much higher tensile strength. Call TSP and they can set you up. Just my $.02.
Also, the Eagle H beams are great rods and with a turbo it's best to run some sort of forged dish piston. Get the ARP 2000 rod bolts, they have a 7/16" diameter vs. the stock 3/8" and have a much higher tensile strength. Call TSP and they can set you up. Just my $.02.
I'm not asking for any outrageous, crazy power just something fun and fast and different than what you see around here. But would like to have something that can handle it with no real problems.
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Hey I appreciate everyone! Hopefully right after the LSX Shootout I'm going to start tearing it down. Then I'll have it machined balanced and have new everything installed and never have to worry about it again. Thanks for the help!
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,294
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Sorry for the hijack, but why do you have to get the block line honed for the ARP studs? This is the second time I've seen someone mention this, and I don't understand why ARP main studs require line honing.
