I know it's incredibly against what people advise on this board, but I was wondering if there is anyone here who is running with a cam but no stall? There must be some people and I was wondering if there are any dyno numbers or track times to verify that it isn't worth it? I ask because I'm sticking with street tires and there is no reason to put a stall in and simply destroy my tires.

 

Its not that the stall is gonna destroy your tires. Its that not having one is going to make it hard for the car to idle. And if you do raise the idle its going to want to push threw the brakes.

It can be done and there are more than a few on here that have done it. But in all reality without even a small stall I would think that even a 224 cammed car would be a complete dog down low and not really any fun to drive.

 

Oh, I should have been more clear in my original post. I know about the brake issue, I would have a custom grind like a 218/224 that would work with the stock stall. My question is more: Will it work well or should I not bother?

So yeah anyone with dyno numbers or track times post 'em up!

 

Honestly, if you are into track times, you should be looking into a higher stall converter before a cam. The rev extension on my yank is awesome. When the trans shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear at WOT, which would normally drop the rpms pretty good with my 3.23 gears, my revs just fall down to 5500 which still keeps me right in the power.

 

Yeah, I know the performance gain with a stall...especially with the hefty stall you have Frito . But I see from your sig that you are running DRs, I will not be. Therefore any gain from a stall would be lost while my tires sit there and spin.

 

I have a 228r cam and no stall, has a street tune. its pretty decent on the street, but at the track, not happy at all I like the way it drives, even without a stall it can be a pain on your tires, i'd suggest getting a stall, im saving up for a yank 3600. mo 2 cents.

 

I would deffenitly get a converter before a cam.

 

why add hp when you cant apply it to the ground?

 

It doesn't add HP, it will actually reduce it on a dyno. It's not a question of tires and traction. It has to do with what the cam needs for support to run and act properly. If you are scared to put in a stall or just in a state of denial, then don't get a stall. Why ask a question that you know you won't get the answer you want? Sorry we won't say "yeah it'll be great without a stall, you'll love it!".

Because it won't be great, or at least as good as it could be.

I ran my TR224 w/out a stall for a couple weeks until I had time to put in a 3400 Fuddle. I don't need time slips to tell me that my cam worked better with a stall. Without it, all I had was a cool sounding idle.

With a good posi and suspension mods it will hook better than you think.

 

i was referring to adding a cam

 

Just go with a 3600 stall You will Love it

 

My buddy did this and it was a pain to drive. His car would always push through the brakes whenever he stopped. I wouldn't half *** it.....

 

I have a 228r with a 3200 stall I put down 370 and thats with a fucked piston I getting a new motor built now my advice get the stall

 

I understand all of your concerns about it pushing through the brakes, but as I already stated, this cam would be specifically ground so it wouldn't do that.

As far as upping hp with the cam and not being able to apply it, well I just plain don't understand that response. Adding a cam would increase power but not all right at take off, it would come on later and therefore not leave me spinning...the converter would make it so I REALLY couldn't apply it to the ground with street tires. The only thing I can think of is you meant I should get better tires, but that isn't a possibility.

Joker: You're the only one who replied who is actually in the situation I'm curious about...I see your dyno numbers in your sig. Would you mind revealing your track time? If you really don't want to it's completely fine.

 

Oh and just for clarification, all of you preaching the stall. Are any of you running street tires? If a stall can be managed with them, I would definitely be willing to consider it.

 

Why are you sticking to street tires? My Nitto drag radials are the best street tire ive ever had. Currently with 18,000 miles on them and counting. Still most of the tread left. Good in rain too.

 

My car has simple bolts on and with any temp under 80 degrees it just annihilates street tires anyways. And I don't have a stall.

Cam + springs at a bare minimum is prob $700+ and thats with nothing extra and thats installing it yourself. Get a converter and a set of Nitto DR's and your car will be faster and more fun to drive for the same amount of money or less.

Why are you so against DR's anyways? I have some Nittos that I run in the summer and I have over 10K on them and they are still at least half tread. Plus they hook better in the rain than my street tires do!

 

You wanted feedback from someone that has a cam with no stall?

Ok here it is.

It sucks.

Get a stall first.

 

You dont have to burn up your tires with a stall. Just because you can spin them doesnt mean you will or have to. Even with out spinning your street tires a stall will benefit you much more than a 218 cam.
My old setup was a stock ls1 326rwhp w/ 3200VIG with all boltons and street tires (BFG KDW's)
I ran a C5 w/ H/C 228r that had a stock stall and slicks. I thought he would destroy me because he had a good 70 hp advantage on me. (he spent around 3grand for his set up and i spent 1grand on my stall with tune). Turned out we ran door to door until we shut down cause we saw a cop. the run was from 20mph - about 90mph.
Thats just my personal experience.

 

the cam will add hp on top end, but how offen do you drive at 6000 rpm-adding a cam will lower your power in the lower rpm's, where you mainly drive-
w/o raising the stall, you might actually be slower on the take off
if you have a custom cam ground to your ex specs, rear, converter, weight, etc, then you might be ok, but is the diff in what they might suggest and what you already have going to be worth it, that is what you will have to decide
the converter just gets you in the power band faster, so beware of imports from traffic light to traffic light, lol
i run an old school switch/pitch turbo 400, it has 2 stalls, 1300/3000
i have switched cams, rears, and i can tell you by switching cams, in the tight stall its more of a dog with the bigger cam than before, but when switching to high stall, its a dream-even changing rears and switching bet stalls, you can really see how important having the correct package is