Well with my car when I had the ls1 in it, my peak power was right at 6500 with the ms4 and a ls6 intake... so i dont see 7k being peak. My LSA was 111.

with my 6.0L stock L92 heads and a carb/efi intake, cam set in at 108lsa my peak power is at 7k, but thats mostly from the intake, and we even put it in at 108 to bring peak rpm's down...

the MS4 is badass, GET it.

 

If you aren't, or can't, do gears for a manual or a big stall for an auto....then there are better cam options out there for you. I had a MS4 in my old car and loved it. But, I also had a stall and 3.73 gears. Now that I have the '98, and its bone stock, I really miss the cam.

 

ok nobody seemed to answer my other question which is fine cause ya'll are all helpful. but what is lsa. it asks which lsa you want when you look at the cams? is there any lsa's that are better than the other?

 

Just buy you a lid and a cutout. You don't need a MS4. You'll hit a tree a kill yourself. Do yourself a favor and read the "CAM GUIDE STICKY" thats at the top of this forum.

 

+1 on reading the CAM GUIDE STICKY. There's a lot of information in there to digest but after a day or so it starts to make sense lol. LSA is Lobe Separation Angle between the intake and exhaust valves lobes. Lowering the LSA will lower the power band and tighten the poweband but will make a rougher idle as well. This page provides a lot of good info just on LSA and advance, read it: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FAQ/LSAproperties.asp

 

I know some plp are DD the MS4 with a 3.42 and have np, but I dont think its the best idea..

Whatever your choice, the MS4 is proven top performer. The question is, can you handle it?
Good luck with your choice

 

I'm not really sure but I think the lower LSA is going to have a choppier idle but more midrange power than a higher LSA. whether or not you plan on spraying it or going forced induction or staying NA affects what LSA you need. if you plan to spray I think you should go with a higher LSA. again i'm not sure about all this tho. anyone feel free to correct or comfirm this

 

Yea you would lose low end power and i agree with your assessment about the power band. THat powerband seems perfect to me, when I race the rpm drops down to about 4800 on shifts. So when the power is actually needed (when you are racing) it will be well within the powerband...maybe not the first 1-2 seconds depending where you start. Who cares about low end power that much?

 

If you daily drive the vehicle and don't want to have to rev it up high to feel any power it's nice to have a little low end grunt. For me I have an M6 still with stock gears (until I install my 9 inch) so cruising on the highway at 70 I am only at about 1550 RPM and even at 90 I am only at 2K so low end torque is nice to have there to have some pick up without having to downshift. Maybe thats just me though...

 

yea i don't know what transmission the car that the motor is coming fromn has yet. i hope its a m6. and yes i can handle it. i have driven cars faster than that. i have been driving this v6 for 4 years now and really know how to take care of a vehicle. i don't run my cars hard. on occasionally i do though

 

when people ask can you handle it what exactly do you mean whats the big difference in streetability in small and big cams like does the car die everywhere or what etc. sorry new to gm and cam stuff altogether trying to learn. ive heard the streetability is all in the tuning so...

 

anyone?

 

Yeah, things like the car dying, fluctuating idle, hanging idle, cam surge, bucking at part throttle, hesitation, etc. Most of that is worse the larger cam you go with. MOST of that can be fixed by a GOOD tuner but that takes time, money, and someone who really knows what they are doing plus your low end still won't be worth much with most "donkey dick" cams.

 

ok ive never driven an ls1 with a big cam. and i know you cant really compare sbc cam specs to ls1 cam specs. but my last motor was a sbc with 282/288 duration .510/.520 lift. it was my weekend driver with a th350 with a bit of a stall and 3.73's. seemed like a pretty big cam, had a lumpy idle. i had no problems at all with driveability, idle wasnt too high. could have probably gone bigger. now how would that cam compare to the ms4 in an ls1 with m6 and 4.10's?

sorry not my thread but im trying to see how bad the big ls1 cams really are so this comparison would defiantly help. thanks

 

We got the tuning end covered for you.

 

Our MS4 camshaft continues to be a very popular cam and for good reason! The camshaft has more than proven itself. We have been on the engine dyno numerous times testing various camshafts and cylinder heads. We completed five days on the engine dyno last month testing virtually every combination possible, and the MS4 fared VERY well! If you have all bolt-ons in place (i.e. long tube headers, off-road y- or x-pipe, induction, etc. the MS4 will gain a solid 65 RWHP. It gained over 90 HP at the flywheel on the engine dyno! We also tested other competitors' camshafts that customers sent to us, as well as new prototype cams that were larger than the MS4. Every cam we tested that was larger than the MS4 did not do as well, even on tighter LSA's than what the MS4 has. Everytime the cam would gain 1-2 HP up top at the sacrifice of mid-range power. Peak TQ would shift from the 5,200 RPM range all the way up to 5,800 RPM! The point of the real-world testing is that bigger is not always better. You do reach a point of maximum efficiency with respect to how much air a given engine can move. This is why we do test our camshafts! It's better to KNOW how a cam is going to work and how it truly compares to others vs. speculating and theorizing how good it might/should be. I believe Jason (screen name Jason 98 TA) made an entire thread showing all of our results with PRC heads, among others.

Streetability of a camshaft is going to come down to a few things: customer's tolerance for big cams, if car is manual or auto, how good of a tune the customer will have, how big the customer's converter is if it's an auto, how much gear the car has in the rearend, etc. You can have the same cam in two different cars, and one will drive more "streetable" than the other. Manual trans cars will be easier to tune; autos with big cams certainly require some added time. ANY cam in the duration range of our MS4 will benefit from additional gearing. If your car is an auto, you will definitely want/need a higher stall speed torque converter. Just like any combination, the more you set the car up to use the power the better it will do at the track! Our MS4 has an aggressive idle, and custom tuning is a must. Due to the aggressive lobes and high lift, we recommend using a dual valve spring kit. Our PRC dual spring kit comes standard with titanium retainers, new seals, and new valve seals. A set of hardened pushrods are also a must. We offer the complete spring kit for $714.99 + shipping. The lower-lift camshafts under .625" lift could run a Comp 918 valve spring since they are rated for up to .625" lift. We do offer a cam package with the 918's and hardened pushrods for $589.99 + shipping. With that said, the PRC dual valve spring kit will allow for up to .660" lift and come standard with the titanium retainers for a lighter valvetrain. So, if you ever think you'll want to go with a more aggressive cam the dual spring kit would be a way to go.

In the midst of camshafts that are larger than the MS4, we're going to have our '98 Z28 at the LSX Shootout in Memphis running a stock bottom-end 346 with our MS4 cam and new prototype PRC 215cc cylinder heads! You can expect the 9.90 record to be bumped.

Feel free to give us a call with any questions or concerns. All of our sales guys are knowledgeable and have run many of our products, so they'll be able to provide you with real-world information.

Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance

 

This is an apples to oranges comparison in the truest sense! The 282/288 duration you list is advertised duration that is typically measured at .006" vs. the MS4's 239/242 duration that is measured at .050". There's a lot more that goes into camshafts than comparing duration and lift, not to mention we're talking about two completely different engines.

What I can tell you is that your 4.10's will work GREAT with our MS4! You would benefit from an LS6 or 92mm LSX intake/throttle body if you're currently running an LS1 intake. You want to be sure that you have all of your "bolt-on" mods done before you install the cam so it will be able to breathe well. As I posted above, bigger isn't always better. We made 1-2 HP more on the engine dyno at the sacrifice of quite a bit of mid-range power. It also shifted the peak TQ up 600 RPM! Average power does benefit you, particularly on a street car!

Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance

 

I believe all has been covered about choosing the ms4 especially since trevor posted up but I feel like including some vids to show another reason to choose the ms4. The bad thing is this cam has caused a lot of people to turn down running around my area from just the sound .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0xVs7GDUnE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSWdt...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgt3rRWpYGc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKgtH51oBfw