98 LS1, stock harmonic balancer, stock crank. When I put the hb on, should I put on WD40 on the crank snout or something similar? Otherwise it's just metal to metal, right?? Is that acceptable?

What do you guys do?

Thx for any help/advice
Zig

 

I usually do the same with just a light coat to help with the install. As well as adding a bit of corrosion protection between the two surfaces. Remember the front seal mating surface is to be dry and clean.

 

cool, thanks chris. btw i got your balancer installation tool today, TOTALLY WICKED. thanks for the fast shipping.

Speaking of the front seal, which part exactly has to be dry? The engine shop that did my machining told me that the front seal needs a film of oil where it contacts the crank. So is the part that has to be dry the part that touches the back of the harm balancer?

 

You can put the balancer in the oven on 350* for a couple hours as well. It will slide right on.

 

+1 618hawk's tool is sick!!!!

 

I know! Can't wait to use it....buuuut let me make sure I understand this...if the timing cover is on, and you're looking at it from the front, the part of the seal that is facing me, I keep that perfectly dry?

 

Just dip your finger in some oil, rub it around the lip of the seal and slap that balancer on there.

 

will do, thanks crz

 

Oil the crank snout and the sealing surface with motor oil, also oil the lip of the seal. Basically everything to do with that install needs lubrication. Even the installer threads being lubed helps things.

Anytime you press something it helps out tremendously to have lubrication, the metal will be seperated from the other metal by the lube and help with galling, thread damage etc.

 

That's what I thought pooter, but people say it might should be installed dry, and there's no mention in the service manual or my ls1 build books that say to oil it. I wonder if it even matters.

I even read a post somewhere here on tech that says the seals have teflon in them to help with startup.

Having said that, I do agree that a little oil will give me piece of mind...

 

Well bud im saying there is no speculation to this when you press parts the oil HELPS not just a little but a lot, I have pulled countless pullies over the years of being a tech, and I have found if I lube the shaft that the pulley is going on and the tool threads and washers it goes much easier, you will hear the "chatter" of the metal trying to slide dry, when lubed its still hard but you can tell things are sliding over each other, the oil seperates the metal from touching, can you do it without oil absolutely, is it easier with oil absolutely, but DO NOT leave the seal dry.


And if you dont want to go for it still let me give you another way to think of it, what can it hurt, whats the downside? None. ( in reference to lubing the crank )

And most seals actually come with grease on them rather than oil, or teflon as you stated.


And that recommendation of heating the balancer is excellent, you may not even need a tool if you heat it. Any heat in the pulley will expand it making it much easier to install. Just be careful if its a pulley with a rubber insulator to not get it too hot, too hot would be over 200 degrees or so, motors run right at 200 degrees coolant temp so I would imagine the pulley gets into that range.

100-130 degrees is what I would probably say, never tried it but I think I will next time.


Edit: sorry for dragging this out, but with press on wrist pins for rods, alot of people heat the rod and cool the pin so that it slides together and once the temps become even the pin expands and the rod contracts and is now "pressed" together.


I edited this a couple times during typing but I am now finished and made a chage after posting so now its cool to read from start to finish.

 

Excellent advice man, I actually got some new oven mitts tonight to cook the harmonic balancer tomorrow. heh

I will also use oil. Rear seal oiled too, I'm assuming?

 

You mean rear main? YES. Any seal that is going to be in contact with a moving part that seals oil needs oil applied at install.

 

right on, thx again

 

Anytime, if you have any other questions ever shoot me a PM, always willing to help, I know how it is.

 

Will definitely take you up on that sometime.

I tell ya man, nothing makes me feel dumber than trying to learn about automotive stuff. Hate bein so new to everything.

 

We ALL started there, how do you think I learned what I learned? I was fortunate to work with some real experienced guys that were also very willing to help me so I was able to learn alot fast, being a new mechanic is hell, in that situation you have problems like this all day everyday until you learn, and that really sucks because the less you do the less money you make its all on how much work you turn out. Thats also why there are so many shitty mechanics, they cant take the time to learn because they have bills to pay. So with that figured in the stress can really mount thats why im so willing to help, I cant count how many times I was stuck until someone helped me.

Dont feel dumb, you are actually a hell of alot more intelligent than someone that just assumes how to put things together, to me a good measure of someones intelligence is their ability to know and admit what they dont know. I.E. the people that just assume and f things up left and right are the dumb ones.

Because you were wise enough to ask now you will have a trouble free install.


And thats why we are on this forum, I love this place I learn everyday from it.

 

Hopefully my ankle biting questions will keep this engine from blowing up on the engine dyno. hahaha

I know man, ls1tech is an insanely awesome community. Sounds weird, but it makes me feel like I'm in the right place to be learning and having fun with these badass cars.

 

It will and it is, by the way your doing your service to your tuner, ask him how many shitty setups that leak, have half *** installs on parts etc that he has to deal with that cause headaches.


peace homie