Blown Motor, Need help choosing a new direction
Blown Motor, Need help choosing a new direction Hey guys,
Just found out my engine is in bad shape. I can have it built back to "stock" or I can go in a new direction. All my mods are listed below. I am looking for some help/opinions on where to go from here. I would like to build a set-up that utilizes my previous mods, maybe a new camshaft, but would like to keep the heads if possible. If not, then I will figure it out from there.
I'm thinking if I'm going to spend all the $$$ on rebuilding the motor, I might as well get a 6.0 Aluminum block and do a stroker kit on it. Would a 427 c.i. stroker be too much for a daily driver?
I'm open to all opinions and suggestions on where I should go with this. I'd like to make sure all my components will be working together when I'm done. I would like for this to be the last time I have to do anything to my motor, except maybe some NOS down the road if I feel it's necessary.
Any ideas for a fellow LS1tech'er with an "injured" car?
Thanks,
Matt
Just found out my engine is in bad shape. I can have it built back to "stock" or I can go in a new direction. All my mods are listed below. I am looking for some help/opinions on where to go from here. I would like to build a set-up that utilizes my previous mods, maybe a new camshaft, but would like to keep the heads if possible. If not, then I will figure it out from there.
I'm thinking if I'm going to spend all the $$$ on rebuilding the motor, I might as well get a 6.0 Aluminum block and do a stroker kit on it. Would a 427 c.i. stroker be too much for a daily driver?
I'm open to all opinions and suggestions on where I should go with this. I'd like to make sure all my components will be working together when I'm done. I would like for this to be the last time I have to do anything to my motor, except maybe some NOS down the road if I feel it's necessary.
Any ideas for a fellow LS1tech'er with an "injured" car?
Thanks,
Matt
Well the quote I received from my mechanic so far was for bringing it back to a "stock" bottom end, with a slight bore of 20 over, bringing it close to a 350 c.i. was just over $5,000 out the door, including all labor, blueprinting, parts, dyno tuning, etc...
I figured if I have to spend atleast $5K to get the motor back up and running properly, I might as well investigate some other options, i.e. aluminum block bored and stroked to over 400 c.i. I was told pricing would be very close to the same no matter what stroker kit I went with. Would doing a 402 be a better option than the 427? Also, if I do choose to go with the 6.0 Aluminum block, can I reuse my heads, or would I have to look into a getting a different set?
If I'm going to do this, I want to get it right the first time. I think the knowledge here is much deeper for my project than what I can find out from my mechanic.
Thanks again to anyone with some helpful insight.
I figured if I have to spend atleast $5K to get the motor back up and running properly, I might as well investigate some other options, i.e. aluminum block bored and stroked to over 400 c.i. I was told pricing would be very close to the same no matter what stroker kit I went with. Would doing a 402 be a better option than the 427? Also, if I do choose to go with the 6.0 Aluminum block, can I reuse my heads, or would I have to look into a getting a different set?
If I'm going to do this, I want to get it right the first time. I think the knowledge here is much deeper for my project than what I can find out from my mechanic.
Thanks again to anyone with some helpful insight.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
From: Hudson florida
I know that you can pick up stroker shortblocks fully assembled for less than $5000. All the big companies make them and then all you wold have to do is assemble the rest like heads intake and put it back in the car. Also 99blancoss on here would be able to help you out with the stroker situation. Good luck with the build and dont forget the direct port kit 
An iron 6.0L block is pretty bulletproof and is fairly affordable. The best thing about them is they hold their round trueness very well even in boosted applications. Add a 4" stroke and aim for static compression of at least 11.0:1 (with the heads you'll be using).
__________________
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
Well the quote I received from my mechanic so far was for bringing it back to a "stock" bottom end, with a slight bore of 20 over, bringing it close to a 350 c.i. was just over $5,000 out the door, including all labor, blueprinting, parts, dyno tuning, etc...
I figured if I have to spend atleast $5K to get the motor back up and running properly, I might as well investigate some other options, i.e. aluminum block bored and stroked to over 400 c.i. I was told pricing would be very close to the same no matter what stroker kit I went with. Would doing a 402 be a better option than the 427? Also, if I do choose to go with the 6.0 Aluminum block, can I reuse my heads, or would I have to look into a getting a different set?
If I'm going to do this, I want to get it right the first time. I think the knowledge here is much deeper for my project than what I can find out from my mechanic.
Thanks again to anyone with some helpful insight.
I figured if I have to spend atleast $5K to get the motor back up and running properly, I might as well investigate some other options, i.e. aluminum block bored and stroked to over 400 c.i. I was told pricing would be very close to the same no matter what stroker kit I went with. Would doing a 402 be a better option than the 427? Also, if I do choose to go with the 6.0 Aluminum block, can I reuse my heads, or would I have to look into a getting a different set?
If I'm going to do this, I want to get it right the first time. I think the knowledge here is much deeper for my project than what I can find out from my mechanic.
Thanks again to anyone with some helpful insight.
ouch thats a rip
Schwanke is selling iron 5.7's balanced with forged pistons for 1500 assembled.
Ill go get the link real quick and post it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-products-showcase/992760-5-7l-iron-block-forged-piston-1499-99-core.html
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Verdad Gallardo Get rid of those scorpion rockers, too many people posting about breaking them.
which brings me to comment numba 2, what do you mean the motor is in bad shape, if your getting a knock then I would refer back to comment 1, as in check the rockers.
which brings me to comment numba 2, what do you mean the motor is in bad shape, if your getting a knock then I would refer back to comment 1, as in check the rockers.
Sorry, meant no compression in #7 cylinder from the test. Said malfunctioning ring or something. All I know is car began blowing thick white-ish smoke whenever I'd get on it. Oil looked fine and coolant levels remained full. So that is what I've been told...
Sounds like fucked rings or cylinder wall scratch allowing alot of oil burn off.
Depends if its rings or cylinder, if its rings, you could pull the motor and only ring that cylinder if wanted to cheap out but now would be the time to go in there with .010 oversize pistons ( Wiseco, Mahle, Diamond ) and some eagle rods. Those are brand names that have proven themselves time after time and dont break the bank, thats what I would do, but if you got the money then go like 402/408 stuff
Honestly if I were you and you are not going to do any of the labor want the best bang for buck then I would get that block I posted to you from schwanke and ask them to install some eagles instead of stock rods then for around 2100 you have a real nice shortblock, then you could take that to the shop and have them install it.
or.
u could rebuild the ls1 with stock replacement speed pro pistons and rings,
will allow you to reuse all components u have now,
have the ls1 machined correctly freshened with new bearings, pump, lifters, gaskets,chain and have the heads milled slightly for truing (.010-,015). need flat surface, for decked motor which also needs to be trued(flat)
that will prolly be the most economic method.
u could rebuild the ls1 with stock replacement speed pro pistons and rings,
will allow you to reuse all components u have now,
have the ls1 machined correctly freshened with new bearings, pump, lifters, gaskets,chain and have the heads milled slightly for truing (.010-,015). need flat surface, for decked motor which also needs to be trued(flat)
that will prolly be the most economic method.
^^^yeah, but the labor alone for a job like that is outrageous, right? That is why I might as well spend a few more $$$ and do an LS3 or get a block and do a forged bottom end. If I do anything at this point, I want to do it right.
Just got the quotes from my mechanic.
$5,281.07- $1,040-OEM Engine Rebuild Kit (pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, head bolts); Coolant; Oil Change w/ new filter; Bore and Hone V-8 Block; Resize connecting Rods, Balance rotating assembly; (24 hrs) Labor to R&R Engine; (6 hrs) Labor to Blue Print Engine; Dyno tune.
$6,573.94- $1,599- Forged Piston and Rod kit w/ Bearings; Engine Gasket Kit; ARP Head Stud Kit; ARP Main Stud Kit; Coolant; Oil Change w/ new filter; Bore and Hone V-8 Block; Balance Rotating Assembly; (24 hrs) Labor to R&R Engine; (6 hrs) Labor to Blue Print Engine; Dyno tune.
$7,953.12- $400- 6.0 Iron Block; $2495- Forged 427 Stroker Kit w/ Bearings, Crankshaft, Pistons, Rings, Connecting Rods; ARP Head Stud Kit; ARP Main Stud Kit; Coolant; Oil Change w/ new filter; Bore and Hone V-8 Block; Balance Rotating Assembly; (24 hrs) Labor to R&R Engine; (6 hrs) Labor to Blue Print Engine; Dyno tune.
I'll discuss further after work to find out more information.
Anyone know if I could use my heads on the 427 build or would these be crap on that engine? I'm assuming the FAST 92/92 and the FTRA stuff can all be used on this build just fine.
$5,281.07- $1,040-OEM Engine Rebuild Kit (pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, head bolts); Coolant; Oil Change w/ new filter; Bore and Hone V-8 Block; Resize connecting Rods, Balance rotating assembly; (24 hrs) Labor to R&R Engine; (6 hrs) Labor to Blue Print Engine; Dyno tune.
$6,573.94- $1,599- Forged Piston and Rod kit w/ Bearings; Engine Gasket Kit; ARP Head Stud Kit; ARP Main Stud Kit; Coolant; Oil Change w/ new filter; Bore and Hone V-8 Block; Balance Rotating Assembly; (24 hrs) Labor to R&R Engine; (6 hrs) Labor to Blue Print Engine; Dyno tune.
$7,953.12- $400- 6.0 Iron Block; $2495- Forged 427 Stroker Kit w/ Bearings, Crankshaft, Pistons, Rings, Connecting Rods; ARP Head Stud Kit; ARP Main Stud Kit; Coolant; Oil Change w/ new filter; Bore and Hone V-8 Block; Balance Rotating Assembly; (24 hrs) Labor to R&R Engine; (6 hrs) Labor to Blue Print Engine; Dyno tune.
I'll discuss further after work to find out more information.
Anyone know if I could use my heads on the 427 build or would these be crap on that engine? I'm assuming the FAST 92/92 and the FTRA stuff can all be used on this build just fine.
$5000?Get a new mechanic.You can buy a brand new forged LS1 short for $2900 and have change for labour and Nos.Not counting selling your old stuff.Good luck.
Well the quote I received from my mechanic so far was for bringing it back to a "stock" bottom end, with a slight bore of 20 over, bringing it close to a 350 c.i. was just over $5,000 out the door, including all labor, blueprinting, parts, dyno tuning, etc...
I figured if I have to spend atleast $5K to get the motor back up and running properly, I might as well investigate some other options, i.e. aluminum block bored and stroked to over 400 c.i. I was told pricing would be very close to the same no matter what stroker kit I went with. Would doing a 402 be a better option than the 427? Also, if I do choose to go with the 6.0 Aluminum block, can I reuse my heads, or would I have to look into a getting a different set?
If I'm going to do this, I want to get it right the first time. I think the knowledge here is much deeper for my project than what I can find out from my mechanic.
Thanks again to anyone with some helpful insight.
I figured if I have to spend atleast $5K to get the motor back up and running properly, I might as well investigate some other options, i.e. aluminum block bored and stroked to over 400 c.i. I was told pricing would be very close to the same no matter what stroker kit I went with. Would doing a 402 be a better option than the 427? Also, if I do choose to go with the 6.0 Aluminum block, can I reuse my heads, or would I have to look into a getting a different set?
If I'm going to do this, I want to get it right the first time. I think the knowledge here is much deeper for my project than what I can find out from my mechanic.
Thanks again to anyone with some helpful insight.
I'm trying to make the same decision now. Engine threw a rod through the block on start-up the other night. I'm in the process of getting ahold of an lq9 block now for that build up and swap.
The $5,000 is out the door price. I put the price for the 3 quotes above in a previous post. $2900 for a forged LS1 short block. Then labor, tuning, etc. I don't think that is very far off if you start to think about it. It is not parts that cost the $$$, it's the labor hours. For a shop to breakdown and pull an engine, then build it back up and drop it back in, is a lot of work and hours. Not to mention tuning and tuning, and when your done, some more tuning...
