Fiber-Tuned Intake Manifold L92 Dyno Numbers inside
#22
How are we looking for long runners for these? The performance from the 4.1 inch runners looks exactly as I thought it would. I'm not willing to give up that much on the bottom on my street build.
#23
Honestly, I bet you wouldn't even feel it, you'd notice the throttle response a little softer down low but the top end pull it would give probably would put a big enough grin on your face to offset it.
If anything, it shifts the power to a more usable curve. Do you honestly need the tq way down at 3000 rpm, I mean at that prm you're just tooling around, if anything it's a little traction control.
If anything, it shifts the power to a more usable curve. Do you honestly need the tq way down at 3000 rpm, I mean at that prm you're just tooling around, if anything it's a little traction control.
#25
That dyno graph looks just like the one from my 6.0 liter with L92 heads and sheet metal intake, mine makes less power though. It would be nice to see an intake with mid length runners but fabricating one is a major undertaking.
#26
This intake it would be easy, another set of molded runners a little bit longer, would be easy to change, take the intake apart, change them, and put it back together.
Same with the l92/ls7 vs the cathedral, just take it apart and change the base where it bolts to the motor.
This intake design has one massive advantage, it's ability to go from one setup to another with a part change, no need to toss the whole thing and start over. There was alot of thought put into it, once it's in people's hands, I think that will be better realized.
Same with the l92/ls7 vs the cathedral, just take it apart and change the base where it bolts to the motor.
This intake design has one massive advantage, it's ability to go from one setup to another with a part change, no need to toss the whole thing and start over. There was alot of thought put into it, once it's in people's hands, I think that will be better realized.
#27
The cost of lower end power is insignificant when you are making over 200 hp downlow for daily driving and then your converter flashes to 5Kwhen you mash the gas. I bet that break point is in the 5K-5.5K range.
#28
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
This intake it would be easy, another set of molded runners a little bit longer, would be easy to change, take the intake apart, change them, and put it back together.
Same with the l92/ls7 vs the cathedral, just take it apart and change the base where it bolts to the motor.
This intake design has one massive advantage, it's ability to go from one setup to another with a part change, no need to toss the whole thing and start over. There was alot of thought put into it, once it's in people's hands, I think that will be better realized.
Same with the l92/ls7 vs the cathedral, just take it apart and change the base where it bolts to the motor.
This intake design has one massive advantage, it's ability to go from one setup to another with a part change, no need to toss the whole thing and start over. There was alot of thought put into it, once it's in people's hands, I think that will be better realized.
x2, this is why i'm VERY seriously considering selling my 92/92 combo (new un-used if anyone's interested ). i'll have the cubes that this intake is meant to feed, although NA, i'm pretty certain my motor would benefit from this piece. it would justify my 100mm MAF too by allowing a bigger TB. i like it the more i think about it, and the price is right.
#29
Honestly, I bet you wouldn't even feel it, you'd notice the throttle response a little softer down low but the top end pull it would give probably would put a big enough grin on your face to offset it.
If anything, it shifts the power to a more usable curve. Do you honestly need the tq way down at 3000 rpm, I mean at that prm you're just tooling around, if anything it's a little traction control.
If anything, it shifts the power to a more usable curve. Do you honestly need the tq way down at 3000 rpm, I mean at that prm you're just tooling around, if anything it's a little traction control.
#30
I hear ya, but you'd probably still be able to do that 20 hp and 20 ft lbs of tq or whatever it would be down there, I dunno if it wil matter with a big ci moor.
Having a race motor in my car I did drive on the street a little bit initially, I know how it is.
Imagine the 470 rw that I'm making, thru a 5000 rpm converter and a 12 bolt on the street. I could drive around, leave a light and just by pulling 2nd gear, not even hammering it the tires would break loose if it wasn't hot outside, and the tires weren't already warm from driving. First couple miles could be ricky, especially if it was cool out.
Having a race motor in my car I did drive on the street a little bit initially, I know how it is.
Imagine the 470 rw that I'm making, thru a 5000 rpm converter and a 12 bolt on the street. I could drive around, leave a light and just by pulling 2nd gear, not even hammering it the tires would break loose if it wasn't hot outside, and the tires weren't already warm from driving. First couple miles could be ricky, especially if it was cool out.
#31
Are you driving around on a regular radial or something? My objective is to not spin the tires. I have 325/50/15 Nitto's for rainy days and 325/50/15 MT DR's for playing on dry surfaces on weekends. I make over 500 rwhp NA thru a 5200 FTL converter and I drive my car everyday. I have a beater also but it doesn't have AC which means that I only use it for hauling stuff or as a dog taxi for my Mastiff.
#33
The upper is the same piece, the runners are the same as well, the only piece if I am informed correctly that changes is the base alum pieces that mate up to the heads.
Makes for a much more universal design that can be adapted to any ls style head, very well thought out design IMO
Makes for a much more universal design that can be adapted to any ls style head, very well thought out design IMO
#34
The upper is the same piece, the runners are the same as well, the only piece if I am informed correctly that changes is the base alum pieces that mate up to the heads.
Makes for a much more universal design that can be adapted to any ls style head, very well thought out design IMO
Makes for a much more universal design that can be adapted to any ls style head, very well thought out design IMO
#35
Sorry I thought I had that right, I remember asking you about it and the plenum being the same, I got the runners confused
Regardless, with the plenum being the same, it's a much more universal piece that only needs one part for all setups, making it a whole bunch easier to manufacture at a lower cost
Regardless, with the plenum being the same, it's a much more universal piece that only needs one part for all setups, making it a whole bunch easier to manufacture at a lower cost
#36
Are you driving around on a regular radial or something? My objective is to not spin the tires. I have 325/50/15 Nitto's for rainy days and 325/50/15 MT DR's for playing on dry surfaces on weekends. I make over 500 rwhp NA thru a 5200 FTL converter and I drive my car everyday. I have a beater also but it doesn't have AC which means that I only use it for hauling stuff or as a dog taxi for my Mastiff.
#37
I wish you guys were down here in S. Florida. I could produce 4 test mules with 400+ cubes that are currently running FAST90's or 92's (one of which would be mine). I should also have access to a 427 LSx w/ 245cc heads and solid roller setup for some back to back stuff on an engine dyno for cathedral port testing towards the end of this week (couple day window of opportunity on this one).
#38
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#40
Dave