Fiber Tuned Intake Review with pictures
#81
Hey LOS, if this helps, you can get em at sears
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA200_.jpg
Have a happy New Year dude!
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA200_.jpg
Have a happy New Year dude!
Woops, I think that I just saw the ones you were talking about 860. I had never seen those allen wrenches before. Might help but not sure if I could get the ones under the cowl with that.
#82
My FAST on my Corvette is hard to get the left rear in because of the cowl. I use a 5mm magnetic screw driver bit that has 1/4 drive hex and then use a box-ended 1/4 racheting wrench (gearwrench) . Goes in with a quickness no patience required.
The flexible 1/4 extension that are shown probably wont work for what you need , but they are incredibly handy.
#85
TECH Regular
Got it back today as promised. Intake looked good. I had to buy some plugs and a 90*hose barb by NPT for one of the holes in the back for the A/C. The supplied hose barb was straight.
Throttle body arm clears nicely and the material that was welded in was smoothed nicely.
I did still have fitment issues. Almost as if the angle that the hole (intake to head) is cut isn't quite right. I had to slot it a little (more than they opened it up) in order to be able to get it where I could start all my bolts without having to float the intake. I'm very paranoid about stripping the threads on the heads.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...e/DSC02052.jpg
So now I have the intake on the car with the rails and lines ready to go. All the bolts have about 3 full turns on them and that's all they'll take without using a tool. That presents a problem. I have a 1/4" drive allen socket that is ground down short and I still cant get a small ratchet on there due to the angle of the plenum. I was thinking of cutting an allen key down to a straight 3/4" piece and then using a ratcheting 3/16 wrench to turn it. Unfortunately, none of my ratchet wrenches are that small. A friend told me that he has a 90* ratcheting allen set (I've never even seen those) that he thinks will work. I will go get them early AM tomorrow. There was a 0% chance that I could muster the patience to turn those bolts a 1/4 turn at a time while getting devoured by mosquitoes with a wrench or an allen key.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...e/DSC02050.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...e/DSC02049.jpg
Throttle body arm clears nicely and the material that was welded in was smoothed nicely.
I did still have fitment issues. Almost as if the angle that the hole (intake to head) is cut isn't quite right. I had to slot it a little (more than they opened it up) in order to be able to get it where I could start all my bolts without having to float the intake. I'm very paranoid about stripping the threads on the heads.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...e/DSC02052.jpg
So now I have the intake on the car with the rails and lines ready to go. All the bolts have about 3 full turns on them and that's all they'll take without using a tool. That presents a problem. I have a 1/4" drive allen socket that is ground down short and I still cant get a small ratchet on there due to the angle of the plenum. I was thinking of cutting an allen key down to a straight 3/4" piece and then using a ratcheting 3/16 wrench to turn it. Unfortunately, none of my ratchet wrenches are that small. A friend told me that he has a 90* ratcheting allen set (I've never even seen those) that he thinks will work. I will go get them early AM tomorrow. There was a 0% chance that I could muster the patience to turn those bolts a 1/4 turn at a time while getting devoured by mosquitoes with a wrench or an allen key.
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...e/DSC02050.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...e/DSC02049.jpg
It's a Snap On CRA180PB I'm attatching a picture so you will better understand what I'm talking about.
Hope this helps.
Greg
#87
Something else that I thought was odd. I initially thought that due to the alignment issues, I would have to get all the bolts started ahead of time as nothing would line up after I started tightning **** down. Turns out that once I tightend the front bolt in each flange, everything lined right up. The rest of the bolts went slack and I was able to run them in by hand most of the way. The bolts were actually easier to tighten than my FAST (with the right tool). The flanges sealed up perfect with the heads also.
In an early post it was asked if the intake track lined up with the stock style lid, MAF and tube. I think that it does. I am only using the cone filter because I run my car in speed density so I had a custom tube that went directly from the TB to the lid. I had that Nitrous Outlet plate between the FAST and my TB and I never got around to removing it and making a new tube. So my tube comes up exactly 1" short now that I dont have the plate in there. I will be replacing the tube and using the lid when I get around to it.
I did run into one more problem that I don't believe has anything to do with the intake. Once I got everything buttoned up, I turned on the fuel pump (I have it on a switch). I noticed that #2 injector was dripping a little fuel between the rail and the injector. I am going over to friends house in a few minutes and pulling the rails and injectors. I bought all new o-rings so hopefully this will be resolved easily.
This didn't keep me from driving the car. She fired right up and I checked to make sure that there weren't any vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner everywhere while she was running. Everything seems to be sealed up good. Idle was perfect. Drivability didn't seem to change at all. Noticed that it was a little rich around 3K RPM but I'm not sure if this has more to do with the rails as I had a stock rail before. Once I get the fuel leak resolved, I'll dial in the tune perfect. I noticed no change in throttle response and did stand on it from a first gear roll and felt solid from the hit. Haven't taken her up to the limiter yet in order to see if I can feel some seat of the pants improvement over 6500RPM. I could feel her right where she would stop making power at 6500 with the FAST. I hope to make a solid pull tonite and get some tuning done tomorrow. Track wont be open for another week or 2 for a new timeslip.
The ball end allen wrenches worked way better. Only thing is that it is hard to get any kind of torque with those as you are using the long side to reach down there when tightening them down since you are coming in thru the top between the plenum and the rails. I used a small box wrench and slipped the short side in the box end to get some levereage for the last couple turns. It really was WAY easier than I thought that it would be.
#88
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Drivability didn't seem to change at all. Noticed that it was a little rich around 3K RPM but I'm not sure if this has more to do with the rails as I had a stock rail before. Once I get the fuel leak resolved, I'll dial in the tune perfect. I noticed no change in throttle response and did stand on it from a first gear roll and felt solid from the hit. Haven't taken her up to the limiter yet in order to see if I can feel some seat of the pants improvement over 6500RPM. I could feel her right where she would stop making power at 6500 with the FAST. I hope to make a solid pull tonite and get some tuning done tomorrow. Track wont be open for another week or 2 for a new timeslip.
I didn't notice any change in drvability , including throttle response, in my GTO either.
Last edited by 860 Performance; 12-27-2008 at 07:24 PM.
#89
I got the fuel leak problem resolved tonite. I replaced all the old dry o-rings on the injectors and it was all good. I did notice that the Speed Inc rails are drilled for the injectors to go in on a slight angle but the injector holes on the manifold are drilled pretty straight. Regardless, it didn't seem to cause any issues.
I hit it a couple of times and found myself on the rev limiter repeatedly. I normally shift the car when I feel it starting to nose over. It started nosing over when it hit the limiter.
I'm gonna do some logging and tuning tomorrow.
I hit it a couple of times and found myself on the rev limiter repeatedly. I normally shift the car when I feel it starting to nose over. It started nosing over when it hit the limiter.
I'm gonna do some logging and tuning tomorrow.
#90
Glad you are up and running !!!
Too bad that your FAST is melted, it would be nice to go to the chassis dyno , swap intakes and get everyone some data before the drag strip. I am real excited about the potential of this intake , I too feel my motor go flat well before it should with the FAST.
Someone loan this gentleman a non-melted FAST and lets see a back to back comparo....
Thanks for all of the install documentation and insight
Too bad that your FAST is melted, it would be nice to go to the chassis dyno , swap intakes and get everyone some data before the drag strip. I am real excited about the potential of this intake , I too feel my motor go flat well before it should with the FAST.
Someone loan this gentleman a non-melted FAST and lets see a back to back comparo....
Thanks for all of the install documentation and insight
#91
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Glad you are up and running !!!
Too bad that your FAST is melted, it would be nice to go to the chassis dyno , swap intakes and get everyone some data before the drag strip. I am real excited about the potential of this intake , I too feel my motor go flat well before it should with the FAST.
Someone loan this gentleman a non-melted FAST and lets see a back to back comparo....
Thanks for all of the install documentation and insight
Too bad that your FAST is melted, it would be nice to go to the chassis dyno , swap intakes and get everyone some data before the drag strip. I am real excited about the potential of this intake , I too feel my motor go flat well before it should with the FAST.
Someone loan this gentleman a non-melted FAST and lets see a back to back comparo....
Thanks for all of the install documentation and insight
#92
Yeah, I'm not really feeling that right now.
We have another one on it's way that we hope to test on the engine dyno back to back against the FAST on a hydraulic roller LS7 427. Depends on when the manifold arrives.
Mine will be tested at the track. The next time I remove this intake will be to drill it for the direct port.
We have another one on it's way that we hope to test on the engine dyno back to back against the FAST on a hydraulic roller LS7 427. Depends on when the manifold arrives.
Mine will be tested at the track. The next time I remove this intake will be to drill it for the direct port.
#94
Someone really needs to do this. There can be too many variables at the drag strip, almost as many as there would be if I tried to compare on a roadcourse.......
Maybe I'll get on the horn tomorrow and see how quickly I can get my hands on one for my NA 392" (4.155 x 3.622) solid-roller, 13.3:1 with heavily ported 225 AFR's (thanks Tony,ERL,SAM,Brian). Currently makes 575-580 rwhp with a very conservative tune through 2 1/2 mufflers using the FAST 90. I as well as others dont care about the slight reduction in low-end power, this thing eats at 4500 rpm and above and the FAST runs out of poop well before I would like it to. Currently make pk power @ 7050.....lots of camshaft.
I would think if the results were favorable that intake sales would go digital for Fiber-Tuned........why haven't they done this thereselves ????
#95
I am porting an intake right now for a customer of mine willing to participate and help out in the R&D....his only request was the intake come back to me for my inspection before shipping ultimately to his place. He wants to make sure nothing is a problem as he wont be back from overseas for many months.
I think its a reasonable request....
I would be willing to foot the bill on the way there if someone is willing to foot the bill for the return trip back to CA.
Perhaps a few guys could pitch in for dyno time...and of course Carlos has to be up for it.
Maybe the 427 is a better test engine?
I dont know but Im willing to help out and would like to see the data sooner than later if you guys can figure a way to orchestrate everything. Track results, while very pertinent, wont tell us the whole picture. We must at some point compare dyno curves on the same dyno the same day. Its just an intake swap and with the right tools it seems its not that big a deal. The car wouldnt even be unstrapped from the dyno ideally and wouldnt have to be....
Keep me posted...
PS....I already concede to a loss in peak power (and even more past peak power as the shorter runner intake will hang on better)....the question is how much and and what cost to low/midrange torque where the longer runner FAST is going to shine?? This is good stuff guys....everyone reading this should send Carlos $5 and he will feel guilty NOT doing it!!
Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; 12-28-2008 at 01:58 PM.
#96
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i just sold a ported 92 not too long ago, i would've gladly held onto it if i had seen this thread first, but it's gone...someone definately needs to do a back-to-back test in a controlled environment...like, say...on a dyno
I agree completely....and concur with your track assessment as well.
I am porting an intake right now for a customer of mine willing to participate and help out in the R&D....his only request was the intake come back to me for my inspection before shipping ultimately to his place. He wants to make sure nothing is a problem as he wont be back from overseas for many months.
I think its a reasonable request....
I would be willing to foot the bill on the way there if someone is willing to foot the bill for the return trip back to CA.
Perhaps a few guys could pitch in for dyno time...and of course Carlos has to be up for it.
Maybe the 427 is a better test engine?
I dont know but Im willing to help out and would like to see the data sooner than later if you guys can figure a way to orchestrate everything. Track results, while very pertinent, wont tell us the whole picture. We must at some point compare dyno curves on the same dyno the same day. Its just an intake swap and with the right tools it seems its not that big a deal. The car wouldnt even be unstrapped from the dyno ideally and wouldnt have to be....
Keep me posted...
I am porting an intake right now for a customer of mine willing to participate and help out in the R&D....his only request was the intake come back to me for my inspection before shipping ultimately to his place. He wants to make sure nothing is a problem as he wont be back from overseas for many months.
I think its a reasonable request....
I would be willing to foot the bill on the way there if someone is willing to foot the bill for the return trip back to CA.
Perhaps a few guys could pitch in for dyno time...and of course Carlos has to be up for it.
Maybe the 427 is a better test engine?
I dont know but Im willing to help out and would like to see the data sooner than later if you guys can figure a way to orchestrate everything. Track results, while very pertinent, wont tell us the whole picture. We must at some point compare dyno curves on the same dyno the same day. Its just an intake swap and with the right tools it seems its not that big a deal. The car wouldnt even be unstrapped from the dyno ideally and wouldnt have to be....
Keep me posted...
#97
-Tony
#98
Launching!
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great write up carlos!! i also would like to see a comparison test. i would think the vendor who made the intake would be willing to foot the bill considering carlos did the r&r on it. i am not a dyno guy but both dyno numbers and track numbers would really be nice. there is a lot of time and work already invested into it. does anybody know what the flow volume on the runners are suppose to be?
#100
My track comparison should be pretty much right on the money. My car is very consistent on motor. My last trip to the track I made about 10 passes. Worst pass was a 10.51@128.3 or 4 with a 1.51 60'. The best pass was a 10.39@129.4 with a 1.43 60'. ALL the other passes were in between that. As long as we get some 50-60* temps, it should be obvious.
This isn't an M6 car that is all over the track. I just hold the button to 4K RPM and then let it go. The car does the rest. Well I shift the gears but I never miss.
Besides, an M6 car will show your gains better even on a dyno because of all the converter slop.
EDIT: we are getting the very next one of these manifolds that ships out. Suppose to be here by the 2nd week of January (unless I scared them). We have an LS7 427 hydraulic motor with out of the box AFR 225's and currently wearing a Vengeance ported FAST 90/ NW 90 combo. As it sits, the motor has gone 9.9 @ 133 in a car weighing in at about 3200# with drivier. We will do a true back to back comparison on an ENGINE DYNO.
I did like Tony's idea of Paypal'ing me some money to do this. I just need like $250. I can get dyno time for $60 per hr. That gives me 2 hrs on the dyno and $130 for my time (bargain). I have access to atleast 3 good FAST's. 2 are ported by Vengeance and one unported. But I'd rather wait for the engine dyno test because I have a stripped bolt phobia that I get nervous just thinking about switching **** around.
No problem. I think I may have pulled my back loading your motor into the truck.
I got the tune all adjusted today and got some good logs from which I applied some very non-scientific math but atleast it yielded some positive results.
I moved my rev limiter up another 100 rpm to 7400 RPM. Once you hit about 6K RPM, you can really feel it start to charge and never lets up. I suspect that I could go to 7500 no problem but I dont like to spin my motor that high. Anyway, I dialed in the AFR and got some good data logging done with HPTuners. When you play back a log, you can see a time stamp down to a 1000th of a second. I compared today's logs vs some logs that I had from my last trip to the track. I just compared how long it took to go up 1000 RPM (6K to 7KRPM) in second gear. All my logs (after dialing in the tune) today were consistent to each other within a 100th of a second. They were also all .18-.20 sec faster than my log of a 10.42 pass that I was using for comparison. If this intake doesn't hurt my 60', I expect to drop atleast 2 tenths.
This isn't an M6 car that is all over the track. I just hold the button to 4K RPM and then let it go. The car does the rest. Well I shift the gears but I never miss.
Besides, an M6 car will show your gains better even on a dyno because of all the converter slop.
EDIT: we are getting the very next one of these manifolds that ships out. Suppose to be here by the 2nd week of January (unless I scared them). We have an LS7 427 hydraulic motor with out of the box AFR 225's and currently wearing a Vengeance ported FAST 90/ NW 90 combo. As it sits, the motor has gone 9.9 @ 133 in a car weighing in at about 3200# with drivier. We will do a true back to back comparison on an ENGINE DYNO.
I did like Tony's idea of Paypal'ing me some money to do this. I just need like $250. I can get dyno time for $60 per hr. That gives me 2 hrs on the dyno and $130 for my time (bargain). I have access to atleast 3 good FAST's. 2 are ported by Vengeance and one unported. But I'd rather wait for the engine dyno test because I have a stripped bolt phobia that I get nervous just thinking about switching **** around.
I got the tune all adjusted today and got some good logs from which I applied some very non-scientific math but atleast it yielded some positive results.
I moved my rev limiter up another 100 rpm to 7400 RPM. Once you hit about 6K RPM, you can really feel it start to charge and never lets up. I suspect that I could go to 7500 no problem but I dont like to spin my motor that high. Anyway, I dialed in the AFR and got some good data logging done with HPTuners. When you play back a log, you can see a time stamp down to a 1000th of a second. I compared today's logs vs some logs that I had from my last trip to the track. I just compared how long it took to go up 1000 RPM (6K to 7KRPM) in second gear. All my logs (after dialing in the tune) today were consistent to each other within a 100th of a second. They were also all .18-.20 sec faster than my log of a 10.42 pass that I was using for comparison. If this intake doesn't hurt my 60', I expect to drop atleast 2 tenths.