TXSSIVE

Awesome. Well don't get me wrong, it would be bad *** to have the 454 but since I'm not going to be racing the car or stuff like that I just think that it would be overkill for a street-driven DD. I mean a 500+ hp 427 or 440 is still way more than I need but I do want a larger cube motor in the car. There is nothing like the sound of a car with a large displacement engine & a free flowing exhaust. Plus I am doing a Phase III Berger SS type build so I need to have the goods under the hood.

Hopefully at some point I'll get my hands on a 1st or 2nd gen camaro, then I'll stick the 454 in that bad boy.

Dutchman427

iTrader: (1)

I am telling you man. You would not be dissapointed with a Dominator 427 set-up. My car is a blast to drive and very streetable. I am running Kooks 1 7/8s headers and O/R Y. Believe it or not... I am making those numbers through a 345hp SLP dual/dual catback. Some people might think the catback is restrictive. I am happy with it and the car sounds good. Under the hood the motor looks factory. Mike runs a small operation. His customer service is second to none and he will make you feel like your his only customer. He will not b/s you. He tells it how it is. I am running a Darton Resleeved LS2 block. He had some bad luck in the past with the LSx blocks.

TXSSIVE

That sounds awesome. I will check out Rapid Motorsports. As I said, I have time. I won't be able to actually do this for a while so I'll check out all the places I can. Yeah I definitely think a LS7 427 or 440 will give me all I will ever need and serve me well. Just can't wait to start the process! The first step is getting the damn car, ha ha. Then putting on the GMMG exhaust with a couple other minor bolt-ons. Then get the suspension up to snuff and then go from there.

kumar75150

You do not want the extra 120lbs on the nose of the car. I could understand it if you were going to need the strength of an iron block for a very high horsepower build.

The extra 12 cubic inches isnt going to do **** for you.

Dutchman427

iTrader: (1)

Your are also going to need a new rear. By the time you are finished doing all your modifications you will have close to $20k invested in your car.

TXSSIVE

Oh I am aware of that, believe me! Lol. So is my wife. I will be upgrading the rear end, probably a Strange or Moser 12-bolt with 4.10 gear.

It's going to be a while after I get the car before I actually do the swap. I'm planning on saving for about a year or so just for that. The exhaust, suspension & a few other interior/exterior appearance mods will be done first.

Oh the car will also be getting a color change as well. Electron Blue Metallic with the white SS stripes. I'm just trying to decide if I should get the color change before or after I do the swap.

TXSSIVE

Yeah that's why I decided to go with the LS7 427 or 440. Like you said, I don't really want the added weight and realized I'm not going to get that much more from the 454 vs the 427/440. And I certainly don't need it anyway.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

During... That way they can paint the engine bay the same time as the car.

TXSSIVE

I was thinking about that also but then it's going to be even longer to do it. Because the cost of the paint job (I want a good one) & swap, it's going to be $$$ all at once. That's why I'm seriously considering a black car so I can leave the engine bay black. That's what I was planning on doing anyway actually. Otherwise I'll be looking to get a NBM car, still would get it repainted EBM though but then I'd have to get the engine bay done and then the issue of doing the paint before the swap or wait til the LS1 comes out and doing it then. Either way I want a black engine bay.

So it depends on the color of the car I get. Black-either before or after. NBM- before & wait to have the engine bay sprayed black when the motor is taken out.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

Yeah I know what you mean. I had mine repainted but not clear coated when the engine was out just in case it was scratched to damaged during install. When the new motor goes in I will clear it this time as Both the engine & paint will be permanent.

I do like this thread BTW... Helped me decide on CI & block, head selection & Intake selection all at once.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

i think i said that twice already. atleast someone sees my point!

TXSSIVE

Cool, glad someone else was helped out by the my question. I figured there was someone else wondering the same thing. There usually is with every other thread.

TXSSIVE

Yeah I see it and agree with it.

PUNISHER TA

iTrader: (13)

X2

except minus the ready to drop in.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Or a 434ci with the LSX iron with a nice short 4" stroke and a safe 4.155 bore, and blast it safely with a 300 shot. 600 RWHP N/A.......900 RWHP on spray.

Talk about a sleeper, FI killer. Or at least 99.99% of FI builds.




.

TXSSIVE

Ha ha. That would be bad ***.

mebuildit

I agree, this is a great thread. I too am wanting to have Erik build up an engine for my off road buggy. At first I was thinking about the LSX block but now after reading some more and the extra 120#'s it would not be in my best interest to have that much extra weight in the rear.
What I would like to build up is a nice engine, have all of the lifter bores bushed, let Erik decide on the heads, a nice crank, Jesel rockers (I like them), Jesel belt drive if feasable too. The one thing that I keep thinking about, it needs to be a good mid range engine, I'm not looking for all out just something nice and reliable. I'd rather spend the money on better parts and have a good solid engine than skimp and regret it later.

Jimmy P

iTrader: (177)

I also agree on the extra weight. It was a hard choice for me, but eventualy I ended up going with an aluminum block just for that reason. But regardless of that, I am sure you will be happy with whatever choice you make.

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

i hate to throw in another variable but has anyone considered a Warhawk block. they are aluminum and can go up to 481 ci. That way you can save the weight and have monster cubes. The only thing is that can get a little pricey.

ERL Performance

Why stop there! You can go with our ERL 500 CI LS based short block. We take an LS2, LS3 or LS7 and turn it into 500 inches and with our design it is VERY reliable for the street. We have one of our Turnkey 500 CI in our C5 Corvette that I've been taking across the country. I have over 2000.00 miles on it within the last 2 months and it does great and averages 18 miles per gallon on 93 oct. Our 500 CI short block is 9900.00 out the door with you providing the core and if not you can purchase one of ours outright.
Lightweight, reliable and BIG cubic inches = ERL 500 CI Superedeck 2. Just another option.