jimbob

iTrader: (4)

Looks like you got it. I also had a bad ground on my old LT1 396. That was only a 10.5 to 1 compression combo. It still caused some funky start issues. I could not imagine now with the 13.5 comp (similar combo to yours) and to much timing would do.... Aaaa kill starters maybe...

When you getting that to the track again?

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Soon, very soon!

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Guess what!? Yep, starter number 4 is toast! I have checked everything there is to check. Alot of guys are trying to tell me to run a billet starter but i know better, it will take out my block for sure then. I just walked away from it for awhile to calm down a little and maybe get some new ideas

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I am pretty sure you didn't have that warm fuzzy feeling that the problem was that easily solved by a loose ground or by your timing tables, because it had run fine for a long time prior to the starter issues.

I didn't have a warm fuzzy feeling that it was fixed, but sometimes it is the little overlooked items that can cause big problems.

I agree on not getting a billet starter till you get this figured out, I am completely stumped as well, possibly the main thrust bearing is out causing to much end play on the crank, in turn damaging the starter when it is
moving back and forth???

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Hey, that's a new and interesting thought!? I'm leaning toward something timing related now. I have done leak downs of the engine and fuel injectors so thats out. The flex plate is mint as far as i can see and everything is TIGHT for sure. Like stated above, i also was leary of the ground cable doing this but was crossing my fingers but i knew deep down that.........not it

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Once running the engine sounds excellent and oil pressure is at 65 psi hot. I started and resatarted this thing a good 30+ times for sure and then WHAMO!

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Possibly something electrical, as you stated it runs fine and your oil pressure looks great, probably ruling out thrust bearing issues. Possibly something in the ignition system causing you to lose 12v hot when it is starting then re-energizing causing it to fire or back fire? Something like a old Chevy ignition where the ignition points also had the wire coming from the starter solenoid?
Heck I'm lost and hope you can get this figured out without losing all of your hair.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

mine broke the starter two weeks ago ,I have Roughly 12.1:1compression so i took two degrees out of the cranking table from its stock numbers and put in a MSD pro billet starter, No problems as of yet! I hope your problems get figured out!Just sharing my experience.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

I've taken my crank timing all the way down to 4 degrees and it still broke. It seemed like it took longer to break but i'm still worried. Alot of guys already told me to throw a billet on and be done but there's no turning back if that thing doesn't give and it breaks the block. Can we say FUBAR!

Drokkers

iTrader: (2)

i can say it FUBAR!!!!! i have nowhere near enough knowledge about this, but im in to learn more. SUBSCRIBED!!!

camarochvy21

iTrader: (4)

This happened to me aloooooooooooooong time ago, like the summer of 07. I had a 01 z28 with a MS3 cam and heads. I dont know what comp. i was at. I blew 2 starters and I was scratching my head. It was really starting to **** me off. I would replace one, and it fired right up and drove it about a week fine. Then, all of a sudden it did it again. So I replaced the starter again. then one day after a hard rain, I went to start my car and heard a seriously loud boom. I checked under my car, and there was oil and metal all over the place! I threw a rod through the oil pan!!!! Come to find out when my friend took off my heads, I had a blown head gasket that was leaking alittle coolant into the cylinder, I hope this helps, BTW, i didnt smell or see any coolant before this happened, and my car never over heated. sorry for the long post.... i hope you find it.

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

We had a similar problem. The head had a small pinhole and would fill up the one cyl. On start up it would clear out. It finally hydro'ed and broke the blocks ear of.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Wouldn't i see any sign of coolant leak on my plugs? As in looking different then one or the other? How about coolant loss(none as of yet) Also when the plugs were out and the engine was cranked continuously with cardboard in front of each hole, nothing. Waited a couple days and repeated above, nothing. No fuel or coolant. Honestly, i've tried everything other then pulling the heads or flexplate. Does a flexplate just mysteriously bend for no reason when the build has at least 1,000 miles!? Just not seeing it but still open to ideas at this point......

dtroike

iTrader: (4)

My best guess would be either a sticky valve guide, leaky injector, or coolant leak into a cylinder. Have you checked to see if there is any excessive metal in your oil? Sounds pretty frustrating. I would stay away from a billet starter for now if it were my car. I dont believe that is the real problem. Good luck

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Oil looks normal. Funny you should say that about a sticky guide. I've also thought about a valvetrain issue since i did replace springs not too long ago and when the engine was done a 1,000 miles or so ago, the heads were all redone with new guides...

Blasko

iTrader: (3)

I wish I had insight to offer, but I'm subscribed to learn.

Best of luck!

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Ok, it must be electrical is all i can figure. I have random codes now popping up. Started seeing bank 1 o2 sensor failure which is brand new. Now i am seeing multiple miss fire codes and crankshaft position sensor A failure! Thing runs like a top so it just can't be anything with these codes!??

ShifterLou

iTrader: (4)

This is where I'm at.

My first thought was compression...but with only 4* that can't be it. Are you getting "kick back?"

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Kick back is what i assume it was and now thinking electrical it might make sense if it's not getting the right current or voltage to the system??

NHRA4MULA

iTrader: (29)

Thats where I would look ...if your cranking it and have a instant voltage drop and then its back that will blow that starter right off the block ... I had issues with a small block chevy that broke the block and had to weld studs in to it and then cracked/broke the starter check the cables did you change the battery ....... I could see if you had some coolant loss or the timming was way up but you checked and rechecked all of that I'm thinking start with the basics and check the cables and battery and grounds .....just my 2 cents