"UPDATE"!Well, well, WTF Happened Here!??
06-04-2012, 09:08 PM
#101
No, no pinched wires. Tune is back to where it was but still comes up with the P0300 missfire code. The thing is not missing a beat so i am temted just to take this code out in the tune. Starter seems to be working good again 'knock on wood' Only time will tell i guess
06-04-2012, 10:46 PM
#102
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No, no pinched wires. Tune is back to where it was but still comes up with the P0300 missfire code. The thing is not missing a beat so i am temted just to take this code out in the tune. Starter seems to be working good again 'knock on wood' Only time will tell i guess
06-05-2012, 08:54 PM
#103
I never did delete the P0300 code. I just assumed since i never had this code before Andy had just desensitized or dumbed it down and left it on. Isn't this what a good tunner usually does so you still could use it for a missfire? I haven't checked if it's off yet but i had some weird crap like this show up lately. The P0141 and P0161 code started popping on and the MIL status has been checked as off but wasn't done in a different spot in the tune. Looks like there are 2 different spots that need to be turned off, not??
06-06-2012, 08:31 PM
#104
Checked all freeze frame data. It's been tripping it at or around the 1200-1500 rpm range i guess. Once in open loop and once in closed loop status. In the engine and diagnostic under setting mil it states that the code is set to go 2 trips and emmisions related. Both areas this code is still checked in the tune. Thing that is weird is that it has never tripped this code before all these starter issues? Took it out and it is not missfiring a beat under throttle at anytime.
06-07-2012, 09:21 AM
#105
A buddy of mine had his block replaced years ago due to this very reason. His car is a 2000 and stock down to the paper filter. His starter ripped right off and took a piece of the block with it. The dealer swapped out the entire long block because of this. He's had his new long block for years now and no problems. Maybe it was a hand full of defective blocks. Maybe bubbles in the casting in that area
06-07-2012, 06:18 PM
#106
A buddy of mine had his block replaced years ago due to this very reason. His car is a 2000 and stock down to the paper filter. His starter ripped right off and took a piece of the block with it. The dealer swapped out the entire long block because of this. He's had his new long block for years now and no problems. Maybe it was a hand full of defective blocks. Maybe bubbles in the casting in that area
06-07-2012, 06:51 PM
#107
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Checked all freeze frame data. It's been tripping it at or around the 1200-1500 rpm range i guess. Once in open loop and once in closed loop status. In the engine and diagnostic under setting mil it states that the code is set to go 2 trips and emmisions related. Both areas this code is still checked in the tune. Thing that is weird is that it has never tripped this code before all these starter issues? Took it out and it is not missfiring a beat under throttle at anytime.
06-07-2012, 08:14 PM
#108
I agree. It's common to set this code with a big cam at idle, BUT if it was never set before and the tune is the same, there could be reason for concern. Check the crankshaft position sensor since it's located right next to the starter. The starter could have bumped it when it broke. I would also check the valve springs, pushrods, etc.
06-16-2012, 08:54 PM
#111
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The combination of compression and initial timing can be tough on starters.
If you have the ability to retard cranking timing, say all RPM more than 100 less than your normal idle RPM, that should reduce starter load and extend life.
My BBC, back in the day, had a ign kill switch I'd use till cranking speed was up, then armed the ign, never killed another starter.
If you have the ability to retard cranking timing, say all RPM more than 100 less than your normal idle RPM, that should reduce starter load and extend life.
My BBC, back in the day, had a ign kill switch I'd use till cranking speed was up, then armed the ign, never killed another starter.
06-26-2012, 12:21 PM
#113
Ok, so i finally think i have this issue figured out. I replaced the crank sensor without bothering to check the harness because of it being wrapped in electrical tape on top of the corrogated plastic it was running through. I pulled the tape off and the plastic was totally melted and my wires were melted ever so lightly together underneath. Hope this was it. I will replace 18 inches of it with a new plug and weather connectors and see how it goes!? Last ditch effort....
