Fastdriver1992

iTrader: (1)

anyone ever do something similar? in theory it seems like it would be beneficial. just would like some real tests to back up the theory...

http://www.lsxtv.com/news/ls3-instan...e-performance/

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

The theory and execution is there, but the only way to test it would be an intake mounted AIT sensor.

JBruno88

Seems like that might be similar to a plenum spacer. I had a spacer on my 2011 Camaro before I traded it in and I could drive on the highway for an hour and get out, open the hood and put my hand on the metal intake and it wouldn't burn my hand off lol.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I received mine today, although I'm not sure it's worth the cost. I'm uploading photos to Photobucket now. Looks like the foam on the bottom of the intake needs to be removed, but do I need to put the foam back between the valley cover & the manifold somehow or is it okay to leave off? Planning to swap in the new intake on Friday after I pickup new intake port gaskets & TB seal. I still have my IAT in the OEM location, in front of the MAF in the neck of the lid.

Edit: Album is here

filmjay

I was looking at adding one of those while my engine is apart...but then I thought...good idea, but why not just use regular heat shield material? It's cheaper.
So that's what I did. No pad removal, no gunk...just $5 in padded reflective tape. Works like a champ.

DWS

Call me a skeptic, but I really doubt you will gain 12 HP at the rear wheels by simply adding a shield to the bottom of the intake.

The entire engine compartment will be hot from running the engine, which means the top of the intake will be exposed to the heat as well as everything surrounding the engine. I get that the majority of the heat comes from the exhaust manifolds and the block has active cooling (antifreeze), and that this shield may help, for a short time, until it too gets up to temperature and then it will do nothing unless it is actively cooled in some way.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I returned mine. 1) It wasn't cut properly, 2) It seems like a PITA to remove the foam adhesive and 3) and I already have enough problems with a skewed IAT.

Wicked 94TA

iTrader: (5)

Where did you get your reflective tape from?

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

you can get it from Lowes home dept etc...standard reflective reflective tape. I did this to mine

KILLERARMY

Somebody else brought up this product in another thread.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-manifold.html

ez2cdave

Yes, that was me . . .

Vettegineer

I do some heat transfer work, and I'd say it is real unlikely that reflective anything is going to help. If there is an air gap to minimize conduction, then maybe you can slow down conduction, but certainly not with just reflective tape. Heat flows through conduction, convection, or radiation--in this case, reflective tape gets you radiation--but that aluminum tape might actually increase conduction if things are real intimate! I haven't felt what they are selling--if there is an air pocket between two foil covers--and it cannot collapse during tightening, then it may keep the intake manifold cooler.

Heat transfer has to happen from the manifold to the air too! As the air flows over the manifold, they are claiming it absorbs enough heat to expand enough to lose 12hp--or 2.5%--of the crank horsepower. Does it make sense that the air could expand that much as it is passing over the manifold? No way. Hard to see GM leaving that on the table.

If you want this effect, then make an air gap between the bottom of your intake and the block. Then add the tape. With the air gap and the tape you will get conduction and radiation. With no flow, convection is very low--so you get the most available in this area. I haven't run the thermo to see if 2.5% is possible, but I think the above logic will keep me from buying this magic blanket.

1989GTA

The product mentioned in the first post also has a thin "foam" layer under the reflective shield. Also the bottom of the LS3 intake manifold has a honeycomb surface so their are air pockets on the underside of the intake manifold. I can see how it might work to a degree.

From the factory there is an intake cover made of plastic with "foam rubber" on the bottom. People say it is for sound and they may be right. I can also see it as a heat barrier, so I left mine on for that reason. Most people toss them.

DirtyBird2000

I know this is an old thread but read this

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...ower-for-less/

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, I don't buy it....

A better test would be:

Run the car hard...then dyno...

Install shield...

Run the car just as hard as before....then dyno.

I question the methodology and thus the results.

Andrew

handyandy496

iTrader: (9)

No way. gimmick..

joyridin'

iTrader: (1)

I would not say it is a gimmick as much as I would say it is debatable on how good it works. If you had an old engine with a carb, one of the first things you did was block off the heat passage under the intake. It keeps the fuel/air mixture cooler and increases airflow. Then in more recent years, everybody came out with the airgap intakes for the same reason, and they worked even better because now the bottom of the runners weren't in contact with the hot gasses and oil in the lifter galley. Definite improvements in performance and reliability.

Same concept with this mat. In theory it should work, but 20hp is a pretty high number to claim. Maybe they accidentally added a zero on the end of the hp claim?

1989GTA

I agree with that. I would do it. The idea is to keep the air intake charge as cool as possible.