Ls7 RMS orentation
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From: Anderson, Indiana
Ls7 RMS orentation REPOST: No response in the FI section
I'm needing some advice on installing my rear main seal on my fresh rebuild. Erl dry sleeved Ls7 with procharger @ 10lbs. I've researched and called a few vendors on what orentation is best on these engines with boost and no solid answer. I never had any issues with the old style seal (lip facing block), but they are discontinued. I've ran across several posts of people installing them backwards(new style seal) due to leaking. Need some advice or experience asap, I'm installing the motor friday. Thanks
I'm needing some advice on installing my rear main seal on my fresh rebuild. Erl dry sleeved Ls7 with procharger @ 10lbs. I've researched and called a few vendors on what orentation is best on these engines with boost and no solid answer. I never had any issues with the old style seal (lip facing block), but they are discontinued. I've ran across several posts of people installing them backwards(new style seal) due to leaking. Need some advice or experience asap, I'm installing the motor friday. Thanks
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From: Anderson, Indiana
Traditionally that's how I've always done them also. I have several LS cars but all NA engines so it's never been a issue. The original seal was much beefier and faced the block so never leaked with 10lbs. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I don't want to do this all over again for a rms leak on the new style seal. I've read several posts with ppl having them leak on ls3/7/9s
I too searched for this answer and could not find much on the subject it seemed most did not even know that both lips on the new seals face towards the flywheel not one in and one out like the old versions.
My opinion is the lip facing forward would seal better with pressure but all the newer cars come with the new version as the new seal has been out for some time now.
Most will say its a matter of good crankcase ventilation atleast i hope so on my TT build or my seal may have issues also!
My opinion is the lip facing forward would seal better with pressure but all the newer cars come with the new version as the new seal has been out for some time now.
Most will say its a matter of good crankcase ventilation atleast i hope so on my TT build or my seal may have issues also!
REPOST: No response in the FI section
I'm needing some advice on installing my rear main seal on my fresh rebuild. Erl dry sleeved Ls7 with procharger @ 10lbs. I've researched and called a few vendors on what orentation is best on these engines with boost and no solid answer. I never had any issues with the old style seal (lip facing block), but they are discontinued. I've ran across several posts of people installing them backwards(new style seal) due to leaking. Need some advice or experience asap, I'm installing the motor friday. Thanks
I'm needing some advice on installing my rear main seal on my fresh rebuild. Erl dry sleeved Ls7 with procharger @ 10lbs. I've researched and called a few vendors on what orentation is best on these engines with boost and no solid answer. I never had any issues with the old style seal (lip facing block), but they are discontinued. I've ran across several posts of people installing them backwards(new style seal) due to leaking. Need some advice or experience asap, I'm installing the motor friday. Thanks
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On The Tree
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From: Anderson, Indiana
I agree with the proper ventilation being the culprit and shouldn't be an issue with my setup. I just started second guessing myself installing it backwards and of course I don't want to replace it in the car anytime soon lol. Some day I may surpass 10lbs, but that will require a new headunit
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LME built my short block and told me to install it with "This side out" normally and not flipped backwards and said it will be fine with boost so that's what i going with but i did ask and research the topic because i dont want to deal with leaks once installed either!
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