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Sorry meant what engine. I was going through all stages with my 69 also with a ez-efi and now i'm finally procharged with hp-efi. Decision is made easier when we know what goals you want to achieve and what type of engine sits in the bay.
sorry....it's from a 2008 TBSS 6.0 ls2, (rebuilt), cam 595/601 lift, 232/236 dur @ .050, 111* c/l installed. Ls3/7 MAF, LS3 injectors, 90mm silver blade dbw TB, 1 5/8" coated hookers. stock heads, and stock bottom end. I have an adapter harness for the MAF and the tables for MAF and injectors are load3ed into the E67 Ecm. I took out the 496ci beast so I could drive it on the street. It starts and idles but stumbles off idle acceleration, then catches and revs up high. The unburnt fuel smell from the exhaust is enough to drive me out of the garage with the doors open. Don't have a code reader to pull codes and they don't loan them at part stores. Just a fun driving car is all I need. So, dyno time is $500, Holley self tuners are $1700, FAST EFI starts at that. thanks
The real question you should be asking is whether or not you are ready to learn how to tune. I have a Holley Dominator system in my 67 Cougar. The "self tuning" part is only for the base fuel table (this is the same for all other self-tuning systems out there). In addition to tuning the base fuel table, there are hundreds of other parameters to fiddle with, so you have to be able and willing to take on the challenge of learning what those things do and how it will effect your drivability. I have invested HOURS into tuning the idle. I know this seems trivial, but it is one of the most challenging yet super important things to get right. Getting the AFR right at idle is pretty easy, but things like IAC settings, timing, etc...are not so easy and take time and experience.
The raw fuel is most likely due to your cam specs. I bet this cam has quite a bit of overlap and that is something that is hard to tune out. Fiddling with the injector end angle parameters will help a lot and the Holley can do this, but again, this would be considered an advanced tuning function.
I am not saying you should go with one system or another. The choice is up to you, but it should mostly be based on your willingness to put in the time to learn to tune. If you are not going to make a lot of changes to your combination in the future, keeping what you have might be the best option. You don't need a dyno tune. You need a tuner that will take the time to drive the car, log, tune, drive, log, tune...rinse repeat....
I run the Holley hp efi for my turbo ls1. The only downfalls of this system is the fact that you can't hook up to your obd2 port for an inspection in New York State, and stock gauges don't work unless you piggy back them. I can't tune to save my life, but I somehow managed to have my car dialed in and dyno tuned in under an hour yesterday. The air fuel tuning was spot on, he added 2 degrees timing up top, and that was the only change he made. I used one of their global timing maps for a similar build "there are several". This is what the car made for power on 13 psi, cam only sbe ls1-
This is pretty well spot on, but as long as you know your sensor data, and can enter it correctly, it's pretty easy. I couldn't tune at all with hptuners before this but when I watched this thing tune the base fuel, then overlap it with a data log, I felt comfortable going over to other software. The tech support on Holley forums is amazing. Danny is always on the ball and helped a lot with my setup
Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
The real question you should be asking is whether or not you are ready to learn how to tune. I have a Holley Dominator system in my 67 Cougar. The "self tuning" part is only for the base fuel table (this is the same for all other self-tuning systems out there). In addition to tuning the base fuel table, there are hundreds of other parameters to fiddle with, so you have to be able and willing to take on the challenge of learning what thos things do and how it will effect your drivability. I have invested HOURS into tuning the idle. I know this seems trivial, but it is one of the most challenging yet super important things to get right. Getting the AFR right at idle is pretty easy, but things like IAC settings, timing, etc...are not so easy and take time and experience.
The raw fuel is most likely due to your cam specs. I bet this cam has quite a bit of overlap and that is something that is hard to tune out. Fiddling with the injector end angle parameters will help a lot and the Holley can do this, but again, this would be considered an advanced tuning function.
I am not saying you should go with one system or another. The choice is up to you, but it should mostly be based on your willingness to put in the time to learn to tune. If you are not going to make a lot of changes to your combination in the future, keeping what you have might be the best option. You don't need a dyno tune. You need a tuner that will take the time to drive the car, log, tune, drive, log, tune...rinse repeat....
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