cam/stall vs cam/no stall
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 6
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From: Kansas City
cam/stall vs cam/no stall I have an 07 trailblazer ss awd, will be an ls3 by the time i'm done, but with a stock transmission. If I want it to remain a daily driver (parking lots, traffic, stop lights, etc) would it be best to run a mild cam with no stall or cam with a stall? I will be boosting this in the future and switching to an 80 rwd. At that point, it will still be a daily just with more power, would it benefit me to recam it then or is there a happy medium where I could use the same cam throughout the build? I know people say the best way to find a good cam is to be brutally honest with the way you drive it and your intentions and I have to say this will more be a daily driver that I can play with from time to time.
I run a 80e with a stock converter in my girls ss with a 224 112 cam. it drives fine. hole shot suffers because of the converter but it drives fine and no stalling what so ever.
Are you planning on a cam in the current 6.0 or are you talking about the future ls3. If it's for the current 6.0 and doing just a cam and no converter I think you'll be happier with the performance gains of convert only instead of cam only. Wouldn't have to be the expensive billet converter either. Ptc, yank, circle d all make converters under $500 and will put a smile on your face.
I would do a TBSS specific stall.
Yank has an SS2800 and SS3200 for the TBSS. But since you want to go to a 4L80 at some point, maybe just go with a less expensive converter like the Torque Thruster 2600 or something or a CircleD 2A 278 or 300mm 2600 stall converter for DD vehicles.
I'd look at one of those with a ~226-230 duration turbo cam (like a 226/231 113) that will run good NA now and work with boost later unless you want to do a PD blower - then you need to do something different in the cam world.
But anything in that range would still drive pretty nice on the street and make more power than you have now.
Yank has an SS2800 and SS3200 for the TBSS. But since you want to go to a 4L80 at some point, maybe just go with a less expensive converter like the Torque Thruster 2600 or something or a CircleD 2A 278 or 300mm 2600 stall converter for DD vehicles.
I'd look at one of those with a ~226-230 duration turbo cam (like a 226/231 113) that will run good NA now and work with boost later unless you want to do a PD blower - then you need to do something different in the cam world.
But anything in that range would still drive pretty nice on the street and make more power than you have now.
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After my experience, I would do the 80E first, then engine work, and then consider the converter. It REALLY sucks, when you break the glass made 60's based trans, and your up against a wall, forced to fix it. My 6.0 just likes to break these 60e's, and it's by no means a bad *** 6.0. It has no boost yet, and my truck is 3400#'s wet. The current trans has BW clutches, good steels, 5 pinion planets, blah blah blah, and has I'll say 9 months on it. Granted, we just got into spring, and it's slipping in high gear already. I daily drive it, but it's not like I beat the ***** of it.
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