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145a was yesterday’s ratings. Current models (2018-2019) are about 240 amps, for truck anyway. Same size, same mount, same connector, same B+ post location. Choice of clutch pulley or solid. I can get and post GM part numbers if needed. Not terribly expensive. Today’s stuff is square wire stator, packs more copper per area (density).
145a was yesterday’s ratings. Current models (2018-2019) are about 240 amps, for truck anyway. Same size, same mount, same connector, same B+ post location. Choice of clutch pulley or solid. I can get and post GM part numbers if needed. Not terribly expensive. Today’s stuff is square wire stator, packs more copper per area (density).
i would be really grateful if you can post the part number, 240amp would be better than wasting my money on the same alternator i have and then findout it wasnt the issue
OK. Will do Monday once back at work and have access to our database. They are current production stuff, so nothing secret. They will be for truck accessory drive bracket. I don’t know if that crosses over to car or whatnot, it may, but TBD.
LOL at snubbing the old trusty 145 amp alternator that bolts right up and plugs right in on 4th gen f car front end drive accessories and uses the same connectors and recommending a gen 5 alternator that uses different everything and saying it's all the same.
It uses a different connector, different from drive accessories that are on a different block etc. Also uses PWM charging and a amperage sensor on the battery cable.
The 145 is yesterdays amperage, he's also got a "yesterdays" setup and requirements. So it's par for the course.
i just started rewiring my chassis harness so i could install arc 8000 switch panel, and im trying to think how i would want it to be wired
im thinking 4 post kill switch for alternator and battery, i just wanted to double check the 2 alternator post is for the 12v turn on signal from ecu, in from ecu and out to alternator? or sensing/exciter too?
if i kill the power from ecu do i need to wire the alternator output with the battery before the kill switch or can i run it to the starter and starter to ecu and then after kill switch to starter?
i read that using 2 post kill switch could cause a spike in power is it true? or can i use 2 post kill switch as i already have it.and use it to kill battery and alternator output together
im think of having another kill switch inside the car, 2 post for ignition power and fuel pump or is the arc8000 enough to kill the ecu and fuel pump? im running psi harness relay for the fuel pump ignition wire to arc and constant power from starter
i just started rewiring my chassis harness so i could install arc 8000 switch panel, and im trying to think how i would want it to be wired
im thinking 4 post kill switch for alternator and battery, i just wanted to double check the 2 alternator post is for the 12v turn on signal from ecu, in from ecu and out to alternator? Or sensing/exciter too?
If i kill the power from ecu do i need to wire the alternator output with the battery before the kill switch or can i run it to the starter and starter to ecu and then after kill switch to starter?
I read that using 2 post kill switch could cause a spike in power is it true? Or can i use 2 post kill switch as i already have it.and use it to kill battery and alternator output together
im think of having another kill switch inside the car, 2 post for ignition power and fuel pump or is the arc8000 enough to kill the ecu and fuel pump? Im running psi harness relay for the fuel pump ignition wire to arc and constant power from starter
LOL at snubbing the old trusty 145 amp alternator that bolts right up and plugs right in on 4th gen f car front end drive accessories and uses the same connectors and recommending a gen 5 alternator that uses different everything and saying it's all the same.
It uses a different connector, different from drive accessories that are on a different block etc. Also uses PWM charging and a amperage sensor on the battery cable.
The 145 is yesterdays amperage, he's also got a "yesterdays" setup and requirements. So it's par for the course.
But..but I read on the internet this is what I need..........
Modern 220 amp rated factory GM alternator upgrade transplant onto 2009 Chevy Colorado w/factory 5.3L Gen IV LH8 V8 which was originally equipped with the DR37 145 amp unit. Direct fit, same connectivity (2 pin & B+), 100% plug and play. One way clutch pulley optional as well under a different part number for the really fast automatic shifters to eliminate belt chirp. High efficiency square wire wound stator with hairpin termination.
You should probably be a better listener to a new guy bringing new information for others to benefit from vs kicking dirt and spouting a bunch of things that were incorrect or didn't apply. Same with your cheerleader.
Modern 220 amp rated factory GM alternator upgrade transplant onto 2009 Chevy Colorado w/factory 5.3L Gen IV LH8 V8 which was originally equipped with the DR37 145 amp unit. Direct fit, same connectivity (2 pin & B+), 100% plug and play. One way clutch pulley optional as well under a different part number for the really fast automatic shifters to eliminate belt chirp. High efficiency square wire wound stator with hairpin termination.
You should probably be a better listener to a new guy bringing new information for others to benefit from vs kicking dirt and spouting a bunch of things that were incorrect or didn't apply. Same with your cheerleader.
If he is using a earlier PCM and or wiring that won't work for him
Your alternator is a 2 wire PWM controlled alternator that is ramped up and down by programming in the PCM.
It also requires and amperage sensor to be mounted on the battery cable and be wired to the PCM for amperage output monitoring and PWM control over the alternator. Your truck came with that stuff so of course it bolts right up and works for you.
Earlier PCM's from 4th gen f bodies and early LS trucks do not have the ability to do either of those things and also has a 4 pin connector with single wire control.
Your recommendation for a newer alternator is nice, but if he doesn't have a later PCM and wiring the 2 wire won't work for him unless it's converted to work as a 1 wire control. In which case it's much easier to go to the right swap alternator FOR HIM. Yes you found the right swap alternator for you and your situation but most here are not doing alternator upgrades on later model colorados...
Don't pat yourself on the back too hard, none of the info you brought is new. I started an alternator swap thread here over 10 years ago. And there are guys in there that swapped to late model 2 pin alternators back then and figured out how to convert them to work.
What you're saying isn't new.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Sep 30, 2019 at 02:08 PM.
Understood. Thanks for being more reasonable. I don't know the other configurations well, I really only know what I was able to do in an effort to boost my own output from 145a to 220a using factory stock parts as plug and play in pursuit of an electric fan upgrade on my truck.
Understood. Thanks for being more reasonable. I don't know the other configurations well, I really only know what I was able to do in an effort to boost my own output from 145a to 220a using factory stock parts as plug and play in pursuit of an electric fan upgrade on my truck.
Is your alternator a factory application or a aftermarket/built alternator? I'm curious what the highest output alternator is on the new trucks, I know my 2014 comes with a 150 or 170. Both of those ratings are pretty serious. But 220 is getting it.
Part of my alternator upgrade back in the day was putting 145 amp alternators on trucks that came with 105 amp alternators to be able to run electric fans so I know what you mean about upgrading for fans. My idea originally came to give guys an option to have an alternator that wouldn't fail on f body cars. All the replacement alternators for f bodies were failing all over the place and I went through 10 of them and had to do a lot of alternator research and learned some things along the way.
The KW5 alternator from the later trucks are 220Amp rated. Pretty cheap but so far no one has shown how to wire them to earlier trucks/f-body cars. It would be a worthwhile upgrade.
Is your alternator a factory application or a aftermarket/built alternator? I'm curious what the highest output alternator is on the new trucks, I know my 2014 comes with a 150 or 170. Both of those ratings are pretty serious. But 220 is getting it.
Part of my alternator upgrade back in the day was putting 145 amp alternators on trucks that came with 105 amp alternators to be able to run electric fans so I know what you mean about upgrading for fans. My idea originally came to give guys an option to have an alternator that wouldn't fail on f body cars. All the replacement alternators for f bodies were failing all over the place and I went through 10 of them and had to do a lot of alternator research and learned some things along the way.
Your history makes sense. You just didn't continue the learning forward beyond that because you didn't need to, you solved the problems you had at the time, and spread the love so others could benefit. Nice.
I work for the company that makes the 220a one which is sourced to GM. We have approximately 40% of Ford, GM, and FCA's starters and alternators, case by case. It is not an aftermarket or mom/pop relabel. 220a is its hot rating, she'll actually crank out way more at room temp and above. It is available under GM part number: 13534128. If you want an authentic one, get it from a GM dealer. I don't have the part number of the one-way clutched version we also supply to them, but I could easily get it if there is interest. The clutch pulley is way cool, but adds a failure point, so I really don't recommend it unless you have a very unacceptable level of accessory belt chirp during a WOT auto shift. This one is low cost, only $160. That's an amazing deal for such high output and OE fit / form / function. Very high quality Japanese design and manufactured here in the US. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...rator-13534128 The B+ output stud adapter out the top is a removable piece, leaving a smaller stud on the back side which is mostly recessed, but one could attach to using a 90 degree eyelet terminal if need be. 2 pin connector.
Our regulator usually has a fail-safe limp home setpoint of 13.5V or so if communication with the ECM is lost. For older cars, one could consider just connecting the B+ only and trying it. Would have to run an output curve on our tester to see how much total output power would be lost doing so.
The KW5 alternator from the later trucks are 220Amp rated. Pretty cheap but so far no one has shown how to wire them to earlier trucks/f-body cars. It would be a worthwhile upgrade.
Do you know what truck that is? Year model trim?
Originally Posted by FormulaBoat
Your history makes sense. You just didn't continue the learning forward beyond that because you didn't need to, you solved the problems you had at the time, and spread the love so others could benefit. Nice.
I work for the company that makes the 220a one which is sourced to GM. We have approximately 40% of Ford, GM, and FCA's starters and alternators, case by case. It is not an aftermarket or mom/pop relabel. 220a is its hot rating, she'll actually crank out way more at room temp and above. It is available under GM part number: 13534128. If you want an authentic one, get it from a GM dealer. I don't have the part number of the one-way clutched version we also supply to them, but I could easily get it if there is interest. The clutch pulley is way cool, but adds a failure point, so I really don't recommend it unless you have a very unacceptable level of accessory belt chirp during a WOT auto shift. This one is low cost, only $160. That's an amazing deal for such high output and OE fit / form / function. Very high quality Japanese design and manufactured here in the US. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...rator-13534128 The B+ output stud adapter out the top is a removable piece, leaving a smaller stud on the back side which is mostly recessed, but one could attach to using a 90 degree eyelet terminal if need be. 2 pin connector.
Our regulator usually has a fail-safe limp home setpoint of 13.5V or so if communication with the ECM is lost. For older cars, one could consider just connecting the B+ only and trying it. Would have to run an output curve on our tester to see how much total output power would be lost doing so.
Very nice, thanks for the info. But I did continue learning, I never stop, I've been a tech by trade over 20 years and a master tech since 2004. Continual learning is paramount to my growth/pay/success in this field.
I'll have to look it up and keep it in mind if mine ever fails. Do you know what vehicle it comes on? If so it will make it easier to order through the shop and get it at cost. I can also source by the part number but some of our vendors are easier to order from by application.
I also don't want the one way clutch, have seen them fail and don't really need it. And I really dig the default 13.5 volt.
Don't forget to upgrade your B+ wire from the alt to batt since you upgraded the alt output, the amperage capability of the wire is usually closely tied to the current the alt can put out in stock form. Sometimes you'll see a giant cable there so it's a non issue, but on my 2004 for example, it had a small cable so upgrading was necessary. Put a 2 gauge on it, if I recall correctly it had an 8 gauge stock.
The KW5 alternator comes in at least the 2015 Silverado 2500 6.0 liter. Beefy B+ post and defaults at 13.5volts. Get them for as little as $80 on car-part.com. Wish I had the know how to hook it up to my 05 Yukon. Someone smarter than myself could figure it out for the rest of us. 220Amps from GM and readily available at the junkyards is a plus. Could not get the battery charge light to go out so I took it off a put the 145Amp back on. Wish I could figure it out.
The KW5 alternator comes in at least the 2015 Silverado 2500 6.0 liter. Beefy B+ post and defaults at 13.5volts. Get them for as little as $80 on car-part.com. Wish I had the know how to hook it up to my 05 Yukon. Someone smarter than myself could figure it out for the rest of us. 220Amps from GM and readily available at the junkyards is a plus. Could not get the battery charge light to go out so I took it off a put the 145Amp back on. Wish I could figure it out.
Awesome thanks man.
When I looked into it I didn't get too far because I wasn't actually going to do a conversion from a 1 wire alt to 2 wire, but in the bit I did read and find out, people were making their own boards to modulate the fielding on the alternator and just seemed like more trouble than it was worth. There may be an easy way, but if there is I didn't come across it. However running it at default of 13.5 isn't terrible, but that battery light would annoy me.
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