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Stripped threads on block for bell housing...

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Old Feb 13, 2021 | 02:42 PM
  #21  
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Those long bolts torque to 106 inch pounds. Equal to less than 9 ft/lbs
The rest to 18 ft/lbs.

Did you install the pan?
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Old Feb 13, 2021 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Those long bolts torque to 106 inch pounds. Equal to less than 9 ft/lbs
The rest to 18 ft/lbs.
Interesting. I called Holly/QuickTime this morning to get torque specs for their bell housing fasteners. They told me 35 ft/lbs on both bell housing to block and bell housing to trans. They did not distinguish between block or pan on the block side. Is that not right?

Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Did you install the pan?
The pan was factory installed. The only thing I've done with this crate engine so far is removed the factory clutch/flywheel and placed the new flywheel and bell housing on for bell housing alignment.
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Old Feb 13, 2021 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by roguegeek
Interesting. I called Holly/QuickTime this morning to get torque specs for their bell housing fasteners. They told me 35 ft/lbs on both bell housing to block and bell housing to trans. They did not distinguish between block or pan on the block side. Is that not right?.
Factory service manual calls for 37 ft. lbs. for all bellhousing to block/oil pan bolts.
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 09:02 AM
  #24  
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Before you throw the transmission in, put the correct pilot bearing in or life is gonna suck. That is a pilot bearing for TR6060.......
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
Before you throw the transmission in, put the correct pilot bearing in or life is gonna suck. That is a pilot bearing for TR6060.......
That’s interesting. They come factory installed with the wrong bearing? Luckily I bought an extra thinking one wasn’t installed. Is GM part #14061685 the correct one?
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Old Feb 15, 2021 | 12:13 PM
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Will look like this and sit further inside the crank. If you try to use the one that is installed with a T56 you will not be able to get the transmission home by about a 1/2"
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 02:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by gnx7
Timesert is strongest and just buy a kit as you will use it again some time in the future. That hole down there isn't super critical and that has happened to cars I've worked on before... someone simply overtightened it

Print out a couple copies of this torque spec sheet and put them in your tool box and give to your buddies that have LS projects: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
I am not familiar with a timesert. As a Tool & Diemaker for over 40 years, you need to look at the strength of the material that's being repaired, and how much material surrounds the area to be repaired. In this situation, aluminum isn't the strongest material. If it were me, I would go with whatever repair that disturbs/reduces the wall thickness the least amount. In my experience, a threaded insert usually means removing more stock from the I.D. (internal diameter) than a Helicoil would. Helicoils are a great way to repair stripped threads. As for this hole not being that important, IDK. Maybe it's not at this time, but may become more important at a later time. It looks to me like the time to repair it is now, while access to it is free and clear. Maybe that's just me. Anyway, I'd call a good hardware, Grainger, or Mid States Bolt, etc., and order the helicoil kit required to fix it. Just take the bolt in with you, and they'll match you up with the proper kit, which comes with the right size drill bit, a special tap, a 'tang driver', and a few helicoils. IDK how deep this hole is, so that's something you'll have to measure yourself, because helicoils come in different lengths. Good luck with this.......
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
I am not familiar with a timesert. As a Tool & Diemaker for over 40 years, you need to look at the strength of the material that's being repaired, and how much material surrounds the area to be repaired. In this situation, aluminum isn't the strongest material. If it were me, I would go with whatever repair that disturbs/reduces the wall thickness the least amount. In my experience, a threaded insert usually means removing more stock from the I.D. (internal diameter) than a Helicoil would. Helicoils are a great way to repair stripped threads. As for this hole not being that important, IDK. Maybe it's not at this time, but may become more important at a later time. It looks to me like the time to repair it is now, while access to it is free and clear. Maybe that's just me. Anyway, I'd call a good hardware, Grainger, or Mid States Bolt, etc., and order the helicoil kit required to fix it. Just take the bolt in with you, and they'll match you up with the proper kit, which comes with the right size drill bit, a special tap, a 'tang driver', and a few helicoils. IDK how deep this hole is, so that's something you'll have to measure yourself, because helicoils come in different lengths. Good luck with this.......
I believe both Helicoil and Timesert use an 11mm tap for the M10 size. This is about the minimum you can increase the thread size if you consider the ‘worst case’ of pulling all the threads out of the hole. Unless you go with Time Sert’s Big Sert (which is used to repair thread repairs that failed), they both remove the same amount of material
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by StorminMatt
I believe both Helicoil and Timesert use an 11mm tap for the M10 size. This is about the minimum you can increase the thread size if you consider the ‘worst case’ of pulling all the threads out of the hole. Unless you go with Time Sert’s Big Sert (which is used to repair thread repairs that failed), they both remove the same amount of material
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta

Will look like this and sit further inside the crank. If you try to use the one that is installed with a T56 you will not be able to get the transmission home by about a 1/2"
Off the main topic, but I wanted to circle back to it. So I grabbed the correct pilot bearing. I'm having problems seeing how this will replace the one currently installed. Those don't appear to be the same diameter. Pics for reference. What's going on here? What am I not seeing?




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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 03:35 PM
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The pilot bearing currently installed is for a TR6060. It won’t work for a T56, as the pilot shaft of the T56 is too long. You must remove it and install the needle bearing in the crank. The new bearing fits in a bore that is under the bearing currently installed in the crank. Remember that, when installing this bearing, the rubber oil seal must face out toward the clutch.

Last edited by StorminMatt; Feb 20, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 03:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by StorminMatt
The pilot bearing currently installed is for a TR6060. It won’t work for a T56, as the pilot shaft of the T56 is too long. You must remove it and install the needle bearing in the crank. The new bearing fits in a bore that is under the bearing currently installed in the crank. Remember that, when installing this bearing, the rubber oil seal must face out toward the clutch.
Thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to remove the current one.
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 03:44 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by roguegeek
Thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to remove the current one.
You need to get a pilot bearing puller of some sort. Just don’t use bread, grease, or TP and pound in the hole of the bearing, as there is an oil galley plug inside that bore. Doing so could push in the galley plug, causing you a heap of trouble.
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 03:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by StorminMatt
You need to get a pilot bearing puller of some sort. Just don’t use bread, grease, or TP and pound in the hole of the bearing, as there is an oil galley plug inside that bore. Doing so could push in the galley plug, causing you a heap of trouble.
I saw those videos. I'm not doing that. I'll go grab a pilot bearing puller. Thanks again.
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by StorminMatt
You need to get a pilot bearing puller of some sort. Just don’t use bread, grease, or TP and pound in the hole of the bearing, as there is an oil galley plug inside that bore. Doing so could push in the galley plug, causing you a heap of trouble.
Got it off using a puller. I see where the new bearing goes, but it looks like the length of the bore is longer than the length of the new bearing, but not by much. Do I seat the bearing all the way back or keep it flushed with the lip?
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 06:17 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by roguegeek
Got it off using a puller. I see where the new bearing goes, but it looks like the length of the bore is longer than the length of the new bearing, but not by much. Do I seat the bearing all the way back or keep it flushed with the lip?
Tap it in until it’s flush. Done.
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Old Feb 21, 2021 | 12:10 PM
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Yup; flush or just barely under flush.

Different kind of motor but same principle.


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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 07:58 AM
  #38  
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Glad you got that sorted out. I have been at the wrong end of this situation once myself.
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 10:04 PM
  #39  
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Oil pan bolt.. put a slightly longer bolt in to grab some virgin threads and G2G
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Old Feb 25, 2021 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by big hammer
Oil pan bolt.. put a slightly longer bolt in to grab some virgin threads and G2G
These rear bolt holes are also usually through holes, which means you could use a longer bolt with a nut.
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