When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Those long bolts torque to 106 inch pounds. Equal to less than 9 ft/lbs
The rest to 18 ft/lbs.
Interesting. I called Holly/QuickTime this morning to get torque specs for their bell housing fasteners. They told me 35 ft/lbs on both bell housing to block and bell housing to trans. They did not distinguish between block or pan on the block side. Is that not right?
Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Did you install the pan?
The pan was factory installed. The only thing I've done with this crate engine so far is removed the factory clutch/flywheel and placed the new flywheel and bell housing on for bell housing alignment.
Interesting. I called Holly/QuickTime this morning to get torque specs for their bell housing fasteners. They told me 35 ft/lbs on both bell housing to block and bell housing to trans. They did not distinguish between block or pan on the block side. Is that not right?.
Factory service manual calls for 37 ft. lbs. for all bellhousing to block/oil pan bolts.
Before you throw the transmission in, put the correct pilot bearing in or life is gonna suck. That is a pilot bearing for TR6060.......
That’s interesting. They come factory installed with the wrong bearing? Luckily I bought an extra thinking one wasn’t installed. Is GM part #14061685 the correct one?
Will look like this and sit further inside the crank. If you try to use the one that is installed with a T56 you will not be able to get the transmission home by about a 1/2"
Timesert is strongest and just buy a kit as you will use it again some time in the future. That hole down there isn't super critical and that has happened to cars I've worked on before... someone simply overtightened it
Print out a couple copies of this torque spec sheet and put them in your tool box and give to your buddies that have LS projects: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
I am not familiar with a timesert. As a Tool & Diemaker for over 40 years, you need to look at the strength of the material that's being repaired, and how much material surrounds the area to be repaired. In this situation, aluminum isn't the strongest material. If it were me, I would go with whatever repair that disturbs/reduces the wall thickness the least amount. In my experience, a threaded insert usually means removing more stock from the I.D. (internal diameter) than a Helicoil would. Helicoils are a great way to repair stripped threads. As for this hole not being that important, IDK. Maybe it's not at this time, but may become more important at a later time. It looks to me like the time to repair it is now, while access to it is free and clear. Maybe that's just me. Anyway, I'd call a good hardware, Grainger, or Mid States Bolt, etc., and order the helicoil kit required to fix it. Just take the bolt in with you, and they'll match you up with the proper kit, which comes with the right size drill bit, a special tap, a 'tang driver', and a few helicoils. IDK how deep this hole is, so that's something you'll have to measure yourself, because helicoils come in different lengths. Good luck with this.......
I am not familiar with a timesert. As a Tool & Diemaker for over 40 years, you need to look at the strength of the material that's being repaired, and how much material surrounds the area to be repaired. In this situation, aluminum isn't the strongest material. If it were me, I would go with whatever repair that disturbs/reduces the wall thickness the least amount. In my experience, a threaded insert usually means removing more stock from the I.D. (internal diameter) than a Helicoil would. Helicoils are a great way to repair stripped threads. As for this hole not being that important, IDK. Maybe it's not at this time, but may become more important at a later time. It looks to me like the time to repair it is now, while access to it is free and clear. Maybe that's just me. Anyway, I'd call a good hardware, Grainger, or Mid States Bolt, etc., and order the helicoil kit required to fix it. Just take the bolt in with you, and they'll match you up with the proper kit, which comes with the right size drill bit, a special tap, a 'tang driver', and a few helicoils. IDK how deep this hole is, so that's something you'll have to measure yourself, because helicoils come in different lengths. Good luck with this.......
I believe both Helicoil and Timesert use an 11mm tap for the M10 size. This is about the minimum you can increase the thread size if you consider the ‘worst case’ of pulling all the threads out of the hole. Unless you go with Time Sert’s Big Sert (which is used to repair thread repairs that failed), they both remove the same amount of material
I believe both Helicoil and Timesert use an 11mm tap for the M10 size. This is about the minimum you can increase the thread size if you consider the ‘worst case’ of pulling all the threads out of the hole. Unless you go with Time Sert’s Big Sert (which is used to repair thread repairs that failed), they both remove the same amount of material
Will look like this and sit further inside the crank. If you try to use the one that is installed with a T56 you will not be able to get the transmission home by about a 1/2"
Off the main topic, but I wanted to circle back to it. So I grabbed the correct pilot bearing. I'm having problems seeing how this will replace the one currently installed. Those don't appear to be the same diameter. Pics for reference. What's going on here? What am I not seeing?
The pilot bearing currently installed is for a TR6060. It won’t work for a T56, as the pilot shaft of the T56 is too long. You must remove it and install the needle bearing in the crank. The new bearing fits in a bore that is under the bearing currently installed in the crank. Remember that, when installing this bearing, the rubber oil seal must face out toward the clutch.
Last edited by StorminMatt; Feb 20, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
The pilot bearing currently installed is for a TR6060. It won’t work for a T56, as the pilot shaft of the T56 is too long. You must remove it and install the needle bearing in the crank. The new bearing fits in a bore that is under the bearing currently installed in the crank. Remember that, when installing this bearing, the rubber oil seal must face out toward the clutch.
Thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to remove the current one.
Thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to remove the current one.
You need to get a pilot bearing puller of some sort. Just don’t use bread, grease, or TP and pound in the hole of the bearing, as there is an oil galley plug inside that bore. Doing so could push in the galley plug, causing you a heap of trouble.
You need to get a pilot bearing puller of some sort. Just don’t use bread, grease, or TP and pound in the hole of the bearing, as there is an oil galley plug inside that bore. Doing so could push in the galley plug, causing you a heap of trouble.
I saw those videos. I'm not doing that. I'll go grab a pilot bearing puller. Thanks again.
You need to get a pilot bearing puller of some sort. Just don’t use bread, grease, or TP and pound in the hole of the bearing, as there is an oil galley plug inside that bore. Doing so could push in the galley plug, causing you a heap of trouble.
Got it off using a puller. I see where the new bearing goes, but it looks like the length of the bore is longer than the length of the new bearing, but not by much. Do I seat the bearing all the way back or keep it flushed with the lip?
Got it off using a puller. I see where the new bearing goes, but it looks like the length of the bore is longer than the length of the new bearing, but not by much. Do I seat the bearing all the way back or keep it flushed with the lip?
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.