Stripped threads on block for bell housing...
#1
Stripped threads on block for bell housing...
I screwed up. I just uncrated my LS7 and stared doing the bell housing alignment. When doing so, I stripped the threads in the bolt hole on the block where the bell housing connects. Seems like such a critical spot to do something this stupid to. What are my options here and how reliable/strong are they?
Last edited by roguegeek; 02-13-2021 at 12:25 AM.
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#3
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#5
The bolt didn’t strip. I’d just replace the bolt then. The threads in the bolt hole on the pan stripped. It’s the bottom left bell housing hole.
Last edited by roguegeek; 02-13-2021 at 11:58 AM.
#7
I actually don't think that hole is very critical. The larger upper ones do all the work.
Still, to fix it, Heli-Coil is your friend
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#9
The dowel pins on the block do most of the work. The bell housing bolts just hold it together. Heli coil as mentioned and forget about it. The heli coil will be stronger than the original threaded hole. And in all reality, you could even leave that bolt out and never know the difference. Aftermarket oil pans don’t have those holes.
Are you running a manual or automatic transmission? If automatic, remove the pilot bearing.
Are you running a manual or automatic transmission? If automatic, remove the pilot bearing.
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#10
Not rocket science...Helicoil or Timesert it, and move on.....
+ Time-Sert Professional Thread Repair Kits & Inserts American & Metric + (time-sert.com)
+ Time-Sert Professional Thread Repair Kits & Inserts American & Metric + (time-sert.com)
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#11
Timesert is strongest and just buy a kit as you will use it again some time in the future. That hole down there isn't super critical and that has happened to cars I've worked on before... someone simply overtightened it
Print out a couple copies of this torque spec sheet and put them in your tool box and give to your buddies that have LS projects: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
Print out a couple copies of this torque spec sheet and put them in your tool box and give to your buddies that have LS projects: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#13
I will look into getting a kit from them. I'm sure this won't be the last time I strip threads.
The dowel pins on the block do most of the work. The bell housing bolts just hold it together. Heli coil as mentioned and forget about it. The heli coil will be stronger than the original threaded hole. And in all reality, you could even leave that bolt out and never know the difference. Aftermarket oil pans don’t have those holes.
Not rocket science...Helicoil or Timesert it, and move on.....
+ Time-Sert Professional Thread Repair Kits & Inserts American & Metric + (time-sert.com)
+ Time-Sert Professional Thread Repair Kits & Inserts American & Metric + (time-sert.com)
Print out a couple copies of this torque spec sheet and put them in your tool box and give to your buddies that have LS projects: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
Legitimate question. The bolts are from the supplied QuickTime bell housing kit (RM-8019). They are the correct ones to use. I simply overtightened the bolt. This is, without a doubt, my screw up.
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G Atsma (02-13-2021)
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roguegeek (02-13-2021)
#19
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