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I kept the stock one up front. Added this one to the rear. Added a 90 deg fitting to route the hose forward and tee’d it to the front hose. They are around $30.
Motion raceworks makes a nice 4 corner steam vent kit. Used one on my fast intake install only thing I added to their kit was an additional 6" length of line to make the install easier.
So because I'm cheap I used a truck? steam cross over that has the nipple on the right side of the intake. I cut the nipple off and drilled and tapped to 1/8" NPT. Then using a -3 90 degree fitting along with -3 SS brake line route it up to a NPT fitting I had welded into the radiator.
Pic.
Motion raceworks makes a nice 4 corner steam vent kit. Used one on my fast intake install only thing I added to their kit was an additional 6" length of line to make the install easier.
Motion Raceworks kit is nice, but it does NOT work with FAST102 as clearly stated on their site - I actually HAVE a MR Kit for FAST92 FS right now...
I used this one on eBay from FassterLLC & can confirm that it does work with FAST 102 & no issues
Go on ebay, Fassster sells a nice 4 corner kit for Fast intakes. Do the 4 corner, totally worth it.
I agree, these kits work great. I bought one for my LS1 in my 04 GTO with a FAST 102. Fit great. You do need to make sure to get all the fittings snugged down well to avoid leaks. Also, at least on the GTO the hose that runs to the radiator was one size too small to fit the nipple on the radiator easily, but I was able to force it on with a little work.
Large diameter 4 port steam vents are garbage. Most of the aftermarket vent kits are designed by people that don’t understand how they work. Flow is not what you want in a steam vent. Per the head of GM performances race team... The rears should be blocked and the fronts should have ¼ tubing. Larger diameter kills velocity/pressure inside the water jackets. That makies it harder to dislodge air bubbles/steam pockets from hot spot areas in the head.WHich is thier purpose, not coolant flow.
Originally Posted by Pratt & Miller
(Pratt & Miller Engineering New Hudson Michigan) and Dr. Jamie Meyer (head of GM Performance) both say that the rear two should stay blocked off.
I used to advocate having fittings that went to -4an on all 4 steam vents feeding into a coolant swirl pot, which then drained back into the lower hose or return heater line... this is a setup that was used successfully by a few race teams, but it looks like this was a band-aid once I got 'real' information from REAL race teams.
The issue is not flow - the coolant passages flow plenty - it's pressure.* When driven hard, engines need coolant pressure to "scrape" the steam bubbles that form on hot spots in the head off the wall of the passage.* With all 4 ports open, there's not enough pressure locally (in the head) to promote proper heat transfer unless you run your overall coolant pressure extremely high (30psi or so).* Indy and F1 cars run MUCH higher than that, due to higher hp/liter (heat concentration).
The proper setup all my LSx racers are using is, assuming the top of your radiator is below the steam vent port:
*The rear vents blocked off, the front tee'd (LS6-style).
*Radiator cap replaced with "open" cap (free flow through radiator overflow port)
*Steam vent tee and radiator "overflow"/free flow feeding into coolant swirl pot (aka expansion tank)
*Swirl pot has pressurized radiator cap, bottom drains to non-thermostat-controlled water pump return
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