228/230 Too small?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 147
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From: Wisconsin
228/230 Too small? Maybe I'm just an addict, and am used to the power, but lately my GTO is feeling slow. This is my DD. Can I/should I go bigger yet? Current cam is a Comp Cams XR281 - 228/230 .571/.573 112LSA. Running 7.4's, & 918's, redline is at 7k, and car pulls strong from all over, but is particularly nice up top.
i daily drive my TA with a 232/234 with worse heads and less ci, so you could defintiely go bigger if you wanted. Still, seems like the 228/230 shouldve made a bit more with you being a six speed and an LS2. My car put down 419 through the 9in
sure there arent any other issues going on? before you swap cams
sure there arent any other issues going on? before you swap cams
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 147
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From: Wisconsin
we theorized that my flowmaster exhaust and that fact that the exhaust is also a true dual (no x, h, or anything) was holding it back. Brand new Magnaflow catback put on it w/ an x-pipe, and the car for some reason does feel a little livlier.
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Originally Posted by 04gtoBMXracer
they come with the ls6 intake manifold
So he would benefit from either a ls6 intake or FAST. Also, have you retuned for your exhaust addition OP ?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 147
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From: Wisconsin
this is my dyno:
Comp Cams 228/230 .571"/.573" 112 LSA Camshaft
Comp Cams "918" Springs
Comp Cams Cromoly Pushrods
ARP bolts on lower end
Stainless Works 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers/Catless Mid s
BADLS1 Tune
Flowmaster Super 40 Mufflers, Stock Tips
GM Motorsports "Rip Shifter" - Street Version
Homemade CAI w/ 4" inlet, 9" Long K&N Filter & Heatshield
SLP T-Stat
MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires
my only change since then (two weeks ago) was the change to a quieter magnaflow muffled catback. Straight thru v.s. Chambered previously.
Hasn't been retuned, but needs it anyway, since we found a problem now that i'm using the AC. The idle gets all over the place and the car stumbles till it "finds the proper idle" again as it switches on/off (the clutch) Need to figure out that issue, and obviously now w/ the higher flowing pipes, a check will be made on the afr itself. I still can't see how I'd be gaining much w/ the different exhaust, but when multiple shops are telling you so, you tend to be willing to try a change.
LS6 intake wouldn't gain me jack, infact the ls2 w/ stock 90mm tb, v.s. ls6 w/ stock 78mm tb only show a very slight nod to the ls6 in flow.
Not wasting 700+ for a fast 90 to gain next to nothing unless I get a screaming deal.
I'd rather save for L92/L76 hardware.
Comp Cams 228/230 .571"/.573" 112 LSA Camshaft
Comp Cams "918" Springs
Comp Cams Cromoly Pushrods
ARP bolts on lower end
Stainless Works 1 3/4" Long Tube Headers/Catless Mid s
BADLS1 Tune
Flowmaster Super 40 Mufflers, Stock Tips
GM Motorsports "Rip Shifter" - Street Version
Homemade CAI w/ 4" inlet, 9" Long K&N Filter & Heatshield
SLP T-Stat
MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires
my only change since then (two weeks ago) was the change to a quieter magnaflow muffled catback. Straight thru v.s. Chambered previously.
Hasn't been retuned, but needs it anyway, since we found a problem now that i'm using the AC. The idle gets all over the place and the car stumbles till it "finds the proper idle" again as it switches on/off (the clutch) Need to figure out that issue, and obviously now w/ the higher flowing pipes, a check will be made on the afr itself. I still can't see how I'd be gaining much w/ the different exhaust, but when multiple shops are telling you so, you tend to be willing to try a change.
LS6 intake wouldn't gain me jack, infact the ls2 w/ stock 90mm tb, v.s. ls6 w/ stock 78mm tb only show a very slight nod to the ls6 in flow.
Not wasting 700+ for a fast 90 to gain next to nothing unless I get a screaming deal.
I'd rather save for L92/L76 hardware.
Originally Posted by lilbuddy1587
05-06 come with a 90MM LS2(equivalent to the ls1 intake with a 90mm opening)
So he would benefit from either a ls6 intake or FAST. Also, have you retuned for your exhaust addition OP ?
So he would benefit from either a ls6 intake or FAST. Also, have you retuned for your exhaust addition OP ?
Bigger doesn't always mean better. Figure out what your goal is for a DD and plan accordingly. More cam means Double valvesprings, other valvetrain pieces, more capable intake, more efficient exhaust, more dyno time. You could make more horsepower with an assortment of heads, cams, etc. If you stay the N/A route do your RESEARCH!!! Try a search on this website and you will usually find out what you need. Do not get caught up in NUMBERS!! Ultimately if you really want an extremely drivable, reliable, powerful car, you can't go wrong with Magnusson's supercharger setup. It is an excellent street set-up. Just my .02
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 126
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Since the weather is getting warmer, your air intake temperature sensor might be suffering from heat soak. The computer pulls timing from your ignition as the intake temp gets higher/hotter. The computer can subtract up to 11 degrees of timing for this. The problem is that the 05-06 GTO suffers from false readings. The AIT sensor is located on the bottom of the MAF Mass Airflow Sensor, which is located directly above the upper radiator hose. If you reach under your MAF while the engine is warm, your hand will get burned by the radiator hose. So the sensor is reporting hoter air intake temperature than your engine is actually taking in and it pulls timing, which kills performance. I put a heat wrap on mine to separate the sensor from the radiator hose. <--NON-SPONSOR INFO REMOVED-->
The real fix is to buy a vector air intake temp relocation kit.
The real fix is to buy a vector air intake temp relocation kit.
Last edited by y2k_ta; Jul 9, 2007 at 01:36 PM. Reason: non-sponsor link
TECH Resident
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville, Tn
Ok after reading through this real quick I dont think you need a bigger cam. What you need is a great set of heads.
My buddy has an 02 WS6 with same duration cam with AFR heads milled slightly and he is putting down 446/420ish.
Before he did his heads and cam swap he was throwing down 350/3**.....dont remeber how much tq, but I think you should look into a set of heads and keep the cam.
My buddy has an 02 WS6 with same duration cam with AFR heads milled slightly and he is putting down 446/420ish.
Before he did his heads and cam swap he was throwing down 350/3**.....dont remeber how much tq, but I think you should look into a set of heads and keep the cam.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I'll look into relocating my IAT, maybe right into my air filter, then I'm done till i can afford heads
maybe it was just the heat soak that killed my numbers, I'm sure it was hot, and stayed hot.
I should look into wrapping my tube. I wonder if spare dynamat will work....
maybe it was just the heat soak that killed my numbers, I'm sure it was hot, and stayed hot.
I should look into wrapping my tube. I wonder if spare dynamat will work....
TECH Resident
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville, Tn
Although AFR's are expensive, TSP makes some great budget heads as well. I think with TSP you can get a set of their heads for 900+. That isnt to bad.
Good luck with what ever it is you go with. Also another good way to go is a shot of the juice!!!
Good luck with what ever it is you go with. Also another good way to go is a shot of the juice!!!
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
GTO Heat issue
Originally Posted by cybernco
Since the weather is getting warmer, your air intake temperature sensor might be suffering from heat soak. The computer pulls timing from your ignition as the intake temp gets higher/hotter. The computer can subtract up to 11 degrees of timing for this. The problem is that the 05-06 GTO suffers from false readings. The AIT sensor is located on the bottom of the MAF Mass Airflow Sensor, which is located directly above the upper radiator hose. If you reach under your MAF while the engine is warm, your hand will get burned by the radiator hose. So the sensor is reporting hoter air intake temperature than your engine is actually taking in and it pulls timing, which kills performance. I put a heat wrap on mine to separate the sensor from the radiator hose. <--NON-SPONSOR INFO REMOVED-->
The real fix is to buy a vector air intake temp relocation kit.
The real fix is to buy a vector air intake temp relocation kit.
Last edited by y2k_ta; Jul 9, 2007 at 01:37 PM.