aschmd

Here is the planned build sheet for my new motor so far
New LS2 GM Perfomance Block
Eagle 4.0" Stroker Crank
Clevitte H Series Main Bearings
Clevitte H Series Rod Bearings
Speed Pro Competion Cam Bearings
6.125 Eagle 4340 H Beam Rods
ManleyForged Pistons -6cc
Total Seal File to fit Plasma Moly Piston Rings
GM Performance L92 Heads with Custom Stainless Valves and .620 springs
Cometic MLS Head Gaskets
Custom Ground Camshaft
LS7 High RPM Lifters
Lifter Retainers & Bolts
4340 3/8" .080 Wall Pushrods
L92 1.7 Rocker Arms
Melling CNC High Flow Oil Pump
HD CTSV LS2 Timing Set

Haven't decided yet on going EFI or GMPP carb intake with a bo laws built carb.

I would like to attain 550RWHP or more. Is this possible with this setup?
I haven't picked out a cam yet. Any suggestions please?
Say I want to put a 75 or 100hp shot of nitrous. Do I need to build anything different?

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Good luck!I hope you have a M6 because it will be pretty tough to achieve those numbers N/A with that setup.Traver

aschmd

ok then, what would have to be changed/upgraded to get around 550 RWHP?
Forced induction?
What would be a reasonable number to expect from that build so far?

z28mccrory

iTrader: (7)

I personally would go ahead and use an LSx block over the Ls2 block if you are shooting for those kind of numbers NA. You are going to need the extra cubes for sure to get those kind of numbers especially if you have a beefy drivetrain.

OneQuickCoupe

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't bought anything yet contact Vengeance Racing. Talk to Ron or Mike, (site sponsor). They have built engines with that level of performance.

D.J.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

408 from an LS2 block? I believe that aluminum is a little thin if you go that far on the bore.

rich-allen

iTrader: (1)

If you go with a 408 in stroker you will likley have to sleeve the block.

Katech offers a sleeved 408" stroker that gives numbers like your asking.

Nothings cheap, especially not Katech.

Rich

z28mccrory

iTrader: (7)

It would not be worth it to sleeve... lol. Not for a 408.

Randy_S

iTrader: (1)

Call HKE racing engines. They use an LQ9 block not the aluminum. I dont see 550 out of range with a real good set of heads. It happens down here in Tx all the time. If it is a little shy nothing that your 100 shot cant bump up easily.

Stang's Bane

iTrader: (22)

It is not that bad. I know of a guy running one that sees 18 lbs of boost on a regular basis. The only problem with it is no rebuild in the future for the block.

Stang's Bane

iTrader: (22)

Do you want a dyno number or a track number?? If you are looking for a track number stick with the aluminum block. If you are looking for a dyno number go with an iron block.

Randy_S

iTrader: (1)

WTF did you just say? LOL

I agree on the first half. Track times will be lower with an aluminum block with the weight difference but not much faster.

However, the poster asked about horsepower which would interpret that he is looking for dyno numbers/ aka iron block

Stang's Bane

iTrader: (22)

LOL, that is what I meant. I will edit my post. Too much **** on my mind...

aschmd

hey guys thanks for the replies.
an LS2 block is 364 CUI stock right?
What would be a good bore? (if you say 408 is too much on this new block)

z28mccrory

iTrader: (7)

Use the stock bore and make it a 402 using a 4in crank. A 408 happens when you bore it .30 over and in your case you wouldn't do it. On an iron block its no big deal to go .30 over.

IMO use an iron block, and tell them you want to spray 250-300 to it. Its not going to change much other than pistons. I guarantee if you start out with a 75-100 you are gona wana keep pushing it and pushing it... might as well go ahead and build it for bigger nitrous, because its not going to change the price.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

if you get the l92 heads ported by a reputable shop 550 rw through an m6 might be atainably but more realistic numbers would be in the 520 -530 range imo.

Cam02ss

iTrader: (8)

I have an LQ9 408 iron block that made 475/443 spinning on a mustang dyno with 2 people in the back. That was through an M6 which was just switched to a TH400. The motor was built for a 300 shot. If you want I can post the complete build sheet. I don't have any decent track times yet because the motor broke my 12 bolt when I launched at 5k.

If you're going to spray the car...iron block all the way. Mine was built down in Texas by company called ARD. 11.5:1 compression, Callies internals, etc. As I said let me know if you want to take a look at the build specs.

aschmd

I have an old school 383 in my car right now and was looking at the LS2 for the all aluminum block (less weight).
Why is it bad to use spray on the alum block?
Maybe FI would be a better option?

Cam02ss

iTrader: (8)

M6 is a 6 speed car. Manual 6. Alot of the guys on here could answer your question better than I could but from my understanding iron blocks are stonger and will hold the abuse of nitrous,etc. better than an aluminum block would. Again I'm sure the guys on here could get into the technical details with you.

aschmd

Z28mccory I took your advice and going to keep the stock bore with the4 inch crank.
I'll keep it NA for right now and either go nitrous or FI down the road.
I need some suggestions on a custom camshaft grind - I basically need just enough vacuum to run power brakes. My 68' chevelle will be a street / strip car.