Equivalent sealants for Header Installation?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Miami, near the U.S.A.
Equivalent sealants for Header Installation? My service manual says to install the header bolts with threadlock GM P/N 12345493, and to reinstall the oxygen sensors with GM antiseize GM P/N 5613695. In both cases they state "or the equivalent".
My question: what is the equivalent that I might find at NAPA, Advance Auto, Pep Boys or AutoZone?
Thanx in advance . . . .
My question: what is the equivalent that I might find at NAPA, Advance Auto, Pep Boys or AutoZone?
Thanx in advance . . . .
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Use C5 copper thread lube for all of your exhaust and spark plugs. Never use the silver anti-seize for spark plug use. It does not allow for proper grounding of the plug with the silver. I found out the hard way at the track.
Ever since I started using the copper stuff I swear by it for everything it seems like. For your exhaust flanges a light coat of the copper gasket maker also works quite well for the hard to seal flanges or collectors.
Copper works really well to for all of your fasteners if you have a steel bolt into an aluminum piece, it will come right out hassle free.
I work in the Missile Defense / Aerospace arena and have tried several types of thread compounds and have found that the copper hands down is the best. Sure there are some out there that work, but more times that none the benefits of the copper outweigh the cost.
Another product that we use is Milk of Magnesia yes it's true. We use it on peices that slide into one another and see high heat temps. Surprisingly, the peices come apart quite easily.
Just thought I'd throw in my .02¢
Ever since I started using the copper stuff I swear by it for everything it seems like. For your exhaust flanges a light coat of the copper gasket maker also works quite well for the hard to seal flanges or collectors.
Copper works really well to for all of your fasteners if you have a steel bolt into an aluminum piece, it will come right out hassle free.
I work in the Missile Defense / Aerospace arena and have tried several types of thread compounds and have found that the copper hands down is the best. Sure there are some out there that work, but more times that none the benefits of the copper outweigh the cost.
Another product that we use is Milk of Magnesia yes it's true. We use it on peices that slide into one another and see high heat temps. Surprisingly, the peices come apart quite easily.
Just thought I'd throw in my .02¢
Silver has a higher elect and thermal conductivity than copper. Thats why high end electronics have silver or gold contacts. Swagelocks silver based antiseize is the best product I have used but is very expensive. Copper is a good budget answer.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Then why does the silver anti-seize make your spark plugs not ground and the copper does?
Do you have anything to back that up? other than swagelocks? Those are tube fittings and I am talking about grounding spark plugs.
We are comparing apples and oranges here.
Do you have anything to back that up? other than swagelocks? Those are tube fittings and I am talking about grounding spark plugs.
We are comparing apples and oranges here.
I've used the silver colored with no problems ever. It's made for use on sparkplugs. The sparkplug will ground properly when it seats against the head (angled face or washer). Just make sure the mating surface is free of dirt.
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I looked at my elect reference book (ugly's electrical-references revised 1987 edition by George V. Hart) and silver has a 6% higher elect conductivity that copper.
Tools like you are why I dont care to add much to this board anymore. It appears only your opinion is of any value not anyone elses. You will notice I did not attack your OPINION even though I disagreed with it. GROW UP JUNIOR.
And for the record I have used the silver based product on my plugs for years without issue. So it is apples to apples! Maybe you just dont know how to thread a spark plug in.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Miami, near the U.S.A.
Here is a website from a major supplier of many different anti-seize compounds including both copper and "silver" (actually nickel).
http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm
Nickel is superior to copper for all applications, except where cost is the major or determining factor.
http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm
Nickel is superior to copper for all applications, except where cost is the major or determining factor.
Here is a website from a major supplier of many different anti-seize compounds including both copper and "silver" (actually nickel).
http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm
Nickel is superior to copper for all applications, except where cost is the major or determining factor.
http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm
Nickel is superior to copper for all applications, except where cost is the major or determining factor.
http://www.swagelok.com/leak_detecto...lubricants.htm
Last edited by koolrayz; Oct 8, 2008 at 11:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Miami, near the U.S.A.
Possible explanation for conflicting advice on using threadlocker on header bolts:
When installing headers, the instructions suggest, recommend, or insist that you re-torque the header bolts after 100 miles or so. GM can't do that on factory engines, so they use the high-temperature threadlocker to keep the bolts from backing out.
GM's advice, in the shop manual for R&Ring the exhaust manifolds, is to use the threadlocker since no customer is going to come back in 100 miles to have his or her exhaust manifold bolts retorqued.
So what should I, the semi-skilled amateur, do when I install my Kooks - be a GM tech, or leave the threadlocker off and check the bolt torque until it stabilizes, if ever?
When installing headers, the instructions suggest, recommend, or insist that you re-torque the header bolts after 100 miles or so. GM can't do that on factory engines, so they use the high-temperature threadlocker to keep the bolts from backing out.
GM's advice, in the shop manual for R&Ring the exhaust manifolds, is to use the threadlocker since no customer is going to come back in 100 miles to have his or her exhaust manifold bolts retorqued.
So what should I, the semi-skilled amateur, do when I install my Kooks - be a GM tech, or leave the threadlocker off and check the bolt torque until it stabilizes, if ever?
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