the big kahuna

im confused the ls2 Chan is it better then the cloyes chain or the same?? it looked the same to me im running a cloyes single because there where no doubles around last march. every one was sold out and I figured it was better I was told they never break bla bla bla but also I have a high volume melling oil pump so I figured it would of been to much crap trying to put it in with that. I do have the little dampener like like a rubber black block in the middle figure that would take the whip out of it but now im worried after reading this

RAFTRACER

That black piece of plastic is the injector wiring harness retainer to the fuel rail......It probably broke off when trying to detach the wiring harness from the fuel rail and was sitting near in proximity to the injector port when the fuel rail was removed. Once the rail was removed it more than likely fell through the injector port........

On a side note I know of a particular '04 LS6 in a Corvette which has eaten two timing chains in a year.....the car is ran on roadcourses. The 04 LS6's were actually equipped with the "LS2" chain and he has broken them twice. He was lucky the first time and just kissed some of the valves, the 2nd time he wasn't as lucky and had to replace the long block. His engine was strange in the fact that it was a late '04 production vehicle and when we took it apart the first time the car was equipped with the "LS2" chain, but the engine block was drilled for the earlier design timing chain dampner. We put it all back together and all as fine and as stong as ever . Slightly over a year later ....another chain let go this time ventilating some pistons......

One thing I know these chains do NOT like is rapid/abrupt engine speed changes such as rev-limit too long , very abrupt hard upshifts, and downshifts in roadcourse applications without correct engine speed matching.

It is disheatening to see you have this problem with the new spring loaded timing chain tensioner.......I was looking forward to using the tensioner on my JWIS chain on my solid roller motor.

the big kahuna

also see the burnt spot at 12:00 clock on that link looks like it was getting hot sparking in there whatever and then finally the other link snapped but one thing is for certain and I see a lot of guys doing this with the stick cars mainly jumping on and off the gas in gear that will snap a chain in no time it would be nice to see the other side of that chain too

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

Cloyes has two different single row chains:

1. 9-4194 - The single row chain currently packaged with timing sets:
   • 9-3153A, 9-3158, and 9-3158A
2. 9-194 - This is the heaviest duty single row chain Cloyes offers for the LSx engine. It is not in the current Cloyes catalog but still available in limited quantities. This is the chain the OP purchased in this thread and costs approximately $360 for chain ONLY. This chain originally came with timing set:
   • 9-3153AL

You would need to determine what part number timing set you purchased to determine which chain you have. More than likely you have 9-4194.

1.8t

The car *may* have kissed the rev limiter 5 times in the 15k miles I have driven it. I was aware of TC issues well before mine broke and thought I took the appropriate measures to ensure I had no issues. I rarely rev match on the street and always selected a higher gear as opposed to a lower one to prevent the rpm rise associated with using the lower gear. As for abrupt upshifts, I am definitely guilty of that at the track. However, my street shifts were very docile to prevent any accessive abuse to the tranny or clutch.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

There seemed to be a strong correlation between broken chains and the ASP under drive. Has anyone broke a chain with another aftermarket under drive?

the big kahuna

I have the 9-3158 A maybe when I adjust the cam timing I was thinking of it.I will get one of them JWIS chains that cloyes one is to pricey almost 400 buck for a chain they can keep it I would just do a good double roller but that JWIS sounds like it a good piece 169 bucks that aint to horrible

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Best price on the JWIS is straight from Katech. Your logic is the exact reason that Cloyes dropped it, but when they first offered this chain it was the top dog. It is the Indy Racing League chain that was developed for the Aurora Olds engine. It is also fully hand blue printed and hand assembled including rigorous inspection procedures, hence the high cost. Those left on the shelf are the only once available at this point. Unfortunately, it can't compete with the less expensive chains now available.

HTMtrSprt

Bingo!!! The problem with these setups is the lack of effectiveness of the crank damper. The stock piece is bad enough when the inertia ring (the part designed to move on the hub and absorb crank twist) is bound up by the serpentine drive belt preventing it from moving freely and damping the crank twist. This causes too much velocity change in the crank timing gear speed and causes the chain to whip, breaking it. The only effective dampers are the ATI or Innovators West style which capture the inertia ring inside the drive shell so it can move freely without interferrence from the serpentine belt. In most cases, bigger diameter dampers ARE better for your engine.

See5

iTrader: (53)

Are you saying that outer ring of the stock damper is NOT bonded to the inner hub? That the ring is designed to rotate beyond the few degrees of flex allowed by the secured rubber layer?
It seems that the severe stress on the chain comes from the crank/flywheel rather than the belt side?
I was told by some of the involved manufacturers that it is more of a harmonic vibration issue made worse by lighter smaller diameter dampers which make your comments interesting.

HTMtrSprt

No, it's designed to twist a little bit against the rubber, momentarilly, and then spring back.... but that's hard to do when the accessory load of the serp belt is constantly pulling on it in one direction only, preventing it from springing back and forth to absorb twist.

Crank twist IS the harmonic vibration and that's why I said a bigger damper is generally better.

Katech_Jason

iTrader: (19)

FYI

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sold-c5-r.html

RyderTA

iTrader: (3)

So far the only ud pulley that's referenced in this thread linked with the breaks is ASP, so what about SLP or Powerbond, anyone have issues while using these?

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I dont know maybe i've been lucky but my ASP pulley has been twisted to 7K numerous times with a stock LS1 chain over the past 8 years. Reading this does make me wonder and reconsider swapping onto my LS2.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't look like you road race though and the on/off throttle may be a factor.

RyderTA

iTrader: (3)

I don't do much road racing, so the people having broken chains are road racers then? I read the whole thread and didn't catch that. lol So as far as us normal folk/weekend drag racers is it something to be pulling the UD off for the stocker?

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

I'm pretty sure the OP broke his chain on the return road immediately after a 1/4 mile run.....

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

It states the above in the 1st sentence of this mile long thread LOL.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

i have a powerbond, and although it is a beautiful hunk of steel and much better looking then the factory piece i didnt notice anything except it being a big hunk of steel. does it dampen at all?

Jimmyz

iTrader: (3)

I've heard the ASP pulley on the LS3 corvette is a bad idea. I have a Powerbond on mine and it's coming off next weekend just as a precaution. I don't believe it ^^^ dampens at all.