Like I mentioned above, I had an Engine throw a Bearing out at about 2500 miles, the Oil Pump failed. I built it myself, so yea I didn't get comenpensated for the Engine, but I got a new Pump.

Not everything requires a fckn law suit. I agree above, people like you make this country a **** hole.

Reminds me of a time that a Cop friend of mine was on duty and was dispatched to a 911 call at McDonalds cause one of the high-school kids there fucked up some bitch's order. She called 911 for that expecting something to be done. WTF...

He didn't go cause he would had been thrown in jail for beating some sense into that woman.


Too many people now adays are pussies, and you just put yourself in that category.

End Rant.

 

TSP/other engine builders, would that pickup tube girdle that's out now solve these o-ring related issues?

 

I would bet against this being an o-ring issue. The engine made good pressure all this time, if I'm not mistaken...but Jason could give more details on the exact pressures than I.

 

Understood.

I did see that o-ring girdle and did wonder if that would be something that would resolve the possibility of the oring being the problem @ install.

 

I had good pressure until the second it let go. even after it let go it still had pressure for a very very shot time. It was still making 6psi when I shut the car off. The pump and o-ring was definately not an issue.

 

Well right now the guy that has my motor is questioning whether the oil I was using was to thin for the clearances in the rod bearings. I had just changed over to synthetic 5w30 and only been 261 miles since the change. I followed all the break in instructions on the motor and used the proper 10w30 that was recommended and even changed it one extra time before I went to synthetic. I never got or read anything recommending a thicker or different weight of oil.

 

^^^that sucks man, sorry to hear that

 

I've never heard of running thicker than factory recommended oil unless you're in a high heat or cold zone area.

Hope you get it all worked out. It appears that you just had a catastrophic failure as all of the rods and crank were destroyed.

 

I wouldn't say they are all destroyed. They all show dark spots where heat built up. From what I have read and researched, that is usually caused by the oil not making it to the right places. I wouldn't think that to be an issue with a new motor. Especially when I carried good oil pressure.

 

Maybe the tolerances were too tight and you were not getting in enough oil.

LS motors are really finicky from all of the reading I've done. There's been a lot post about the right bearing clearances and ring gaps for the various motor uses, N/A vs FI, etc....

How many total miles before it gave up the ghost ?

 

I was just about to roll 6k miles

 

That's wierd, I figured from what you posted that it crapped out really quick.

Did you experience any vibration problems ? Could have slowly tore up the mains.

 

No I didn't have any sign of failure at all. This car is my daily driver so I take care of it like a child. I was just on my way to work on the interstate cruising at 70 and just suddenly started knocking realy loud and the oil pressure just dropped to 6psi. It was so random.

 

Very puzzling ? Let us know what the manufacturer says was the problem.

 

first off really sorry to read about this man terrible luck hopefully you can get it back on the road without too much trouble.

I'm curious about the oil thickness, what is recommended for a new engine? I was expecting to run the same ol' 5w30 Mobil 1 same as always... bad idea? Feel free to chime in on this one TexasSpeed...

 

Damn that sucks!

Please keep updating the thread. I'm worried about my motor now.

I only get 25 psi at hot idle . . . Only 450 miles on my new motor . . .

I hope TSP works it out for you.

 

Well, definatelly sucks to hear man. But honestly, why does everyone keep saying they hope TSP takes care of it?? Doesnt sound to me like it is much of TSP's fault at this point, nor is the poster making it sound like it. Hope all goes well with it for you man, and im definatelly going to keep posted to see if you can figure out what caused it/if anything failed etc. Good luck on it man.

 

im not trying to point any fingers, but we havent seen the exact clearances of this engine yet. usualy when you do a breake in of a new engine you use a hair thicker conventianal oil for proper ring seating. but if an engine is built new you would expect to see atleat 35 psi of oil pressure at a hot idle. we will have to ait this one out to see what it all entails.

 

Instructions for proper break-in dyno oil come with the new motors.

Valvoline race oil is the recommended choice.

And to anyone who may or may not have a +$5k bottom-end motor:

Not everyone is blaming TSP at all.

RE-READ the thread. MATT from TSP already posted and offered their assistance.

So if you can't comprehend simple grammar; leave the thread

 

Exactly......No one is pointing fingers. TSP has as much concern in the failure of the motor as I do. From what I understand they have a machine shop that builds these and they are working with them to to at least get an opinion on the cause of the failure right now. They have the pics I posted so it's just a matter of letting everyone see what's up. My guy here is going to do some measuring and if I he has to he can talk to TSP and let them know what he has found and maybe help to determine the cause. There definately is a lot o money in this motor to only go 6k miles since it was put in the car at the end of last May. But everyone is doing what they need to at this point.