05JUDGE

iTrader: (26)

Last night when I pulled into my apartment complex, my motor was making a light know from the lower end. Wasn't anything loud our hard so I figured I would look at it this morning and see if it would repeat itself. Well I start up the car this morning, and no knock. The car sounded fine, so I took off for work. It's about an 8 mile trip down the interstate to work. So about a mile and a half away from work, my car makes a little lunge and this rattling starts from the motor. I slow down and notice my oil pressure went from about 30psi to 16psi. I have one stop sign where I exit the interstate and then my last half mile of 35mph driving. When I stopped at the stop sign, the car felt like it was running on 7 cylinders and knocking pretty bad. I limped my last little distance and parked the car and as I parked the check oil light came on and the pressure went to 6psi. After it cooled down I checked the oil and has gone from clean last night, to black and lots of grainy metal shavings. Obviously something internal went, but what normally would be gone with these symptoms? I haven't been hard on the car in forever since there has been so much snow lately and it's my DD. The car did sit for 2 weeks over the holidays. I had my oil changed exactly 261 miles ago and made the swap to full synthetic. To me I am thinking I spun a bearing. I just don't know.

kcmags

iTrader: (5)

I think your right...regardless its coming apart.
let us know!!!

Jimbo'sZO6

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a spun bearing to me! Drain the oil and remove the filter and cut it open. If you find a bunch of copper/brass looking particles in there, it's definitely a spun bearing! (ask me how I know?)

Jimbo

05JUDGE

iTrader: (26)

What typically causes a spun bearing? It's been driving to and from work(20miles round trip) since August with no banging on it at all. Just doesn't make since.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Sometimes **** happens like that, when it's time to go, they go.

05JUDGE

iTrader: (26)

6k miles just doesn't seem like it should be time to go...lol...

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Oil pressure is built up by the clearance in the bearings. As the clearance increases, oil pressure goes down...Unfortunately.

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

Is the oil full on the dipstick? See if you have any leaks somewhere, and yeah 6k miles on it it wasn't time for it to go lol. You should have a warranty on that don't you?

05JUDGE

iTrader: (26)

Oil is full, but nasty and as for warranty, it's covered on workmanship, but I am thinking I might have other issues after talking to some people.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I lost a Bearing at 2500.. brand new build. Oil Pump failed internally, that is the only thing we figured to cause it, cause everything else was fine.

05JUDGE

iTrader: (26)

I just hope I can salvage most of the parts. I am thinking about just selling off the motor for parts and doing something different with the car.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Only if I was so fortunate. A spun bearing is nothing to worry about lol. Try throwing a rod through your resleeved block and oil pan while internally destroying the block as the broke rod flung around at 4K rpms....This is what I'm dealing with right now....arg.

Good luck on your car!

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

Ummmm...... Dam post pics, Just do the the 3 B mod Bigger, Badder, Better

BlownVette 2001

iTrader: (2)

Sounds to me like the main bearings let loose.

Hard to detrmine why without inspecting the motor. How many miles did the motor have on it ?

05JUDGE

iTrader: (26)

Here are the damage pics. #6 rod bearing spun. The #6 rod ground about .030 out of the crank in that position. All of the rod bearing were scored and as soon as we took the caps off the bearing were falling out. Not locked in place at all. All of the main bearings were scored and damaged. The best of all the mains, was the thrust bearing. The crank is ruined, the rods are more than likely ruined. The block came through with no damage, as well as the pistons.
Crank damage after removing #6

Whats left of the #6 bearing

Whats left of the #6 bearing

#6 rod damage

Scored main bearings

Crank damage after rods removed

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

How many miles were on that, and who built that?

RyderTA

iTrader: (3)

Damn dude that sucks. What better time to throw some forged pistons/rods in than now though.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Lol, you can't tell those are already forged pistons/rods?

Looks like a serious mess! If no other rods bearing had spun, you may only need to replace the one rod.

As far as the crank, thats scrap metal now. What shop built this? I would leave it where it is now, and then start some court actions against faulty workmanship. You maybe able to get it rebuilt on their dime by another shop.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

LOL. We built it.

You're the stereotypical American who gets all lawyer happy aren't you? You don't even know what happened to it, how long it ran flawlessly, etc and you're saying get a lawyer?

Jason, shoot me a line and we'll see what we can figure out about what happened and we'll try to help in whatever way we can to get you back on the road.

Jimbo'sZO6

iTrader: (1)

That's an awful lot of damage caused by one spun rod bearing. When I lost #2 rod bearing on my new build at 1700 miles, all it did was ruin the #2 rod.
The forged crank wasn't damaged at all and just needed to be polished.
Builder replaced the rod, all the rod, cam and main bearings, put a fresh hone job on the cylinders and replaced the rings. It was all done under warranty and now the motor is back in the car and running fine.
If you can, you should post up here about where the motor was built and what they are going to do to help you out! Good luck and sorry to see that mess!

Jimbo