Please evaluate my L92 build!!
Please evaluate my L92 build!! Ok guys, go easy on me because I am a V8 noob and I have never really gone into a large pushrod motor like this. Here is the prospect so far:
Stock L92 bottom end, with Katech rod bolts
F body oil pan
stock L92 oil pump
LS3 intake manifold
LS3 intake valves
some kind of stiff valve spring either patriot gold or comp 921s
hardened pushrods
stock lifters
LS3 water pump
ARP head bolts
LS7 clutch
JTR long tube headers
3 inch exhaust
LGM cam either the G6X3 or the G6XE
I'm looking for about 500hp at the crank
Now, I have tried to research the stock limitations on the rockers, or the pistons, rods, etc and I couldn't really find much. So, for you L92 head users, do you see anything glaring with my setup? I dont plan to spin the motor past 6500 or so and I *think* the max lift on the LGM cam is about .600 or so. I know some people are using aftermarket rockers, but do I *need* them? will the stock ones work? I wont be using any power adders, I just want a mostly reliable 500hp car.....Thanks in advance!!
Stock L92 bottom end, with Katech rod bolts
F body oil pan
stock L92 oil pump
LS3 intake manifold
LS3 intake valves
some kind of stiff valve spring either patriot gold or comp 921s
hardened pushrods
stock lifters
LS3 water pump
ARP head bolts
LS7 clutch
JTR long tube headers
3 inch exhaust
LGM cam either the G6X3 or the G6XE
I'm looking for about 500hp at the crank
Now, I have tried to research the stock limitations on the rockers, or the pistons, rods, etc and I couldn't really find much. So, for you L92 head users, do you see anything glaring with my setup? I dont plan to spin the motor past 6500 or so and I *think* the max lift on the LGM cam is about .600 or so. I know some people are using aftermarket rockers, but do I *need* them? will the stock ones work? I wont be using any power adders, I just want a mostly reliable 500hp car.....Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by onefastrx7turbo; Jan 14, 2009 at 10:18 PM.
As long as you stay hydraulic (which you have indicated you are) the stock L92 rockers will be more than fine. More companies are coming out with better asssemblies for the 92's, but up to this point, pretty limited. I am running a solid roller, and have to have adjustable rockers, and my selection is la $2000 shaft setup from Jesel, and $700 setup from Crane that uses to small of a rocker bolt and breaks under extreme spring pressure. Yella Terra is SUPPOSED to be out with a rocker setup in April, and Comp Cams and T&D have setups that I amlooking at right now in the $1200 range.
But, back to you, stock rockers will be fine for your intended use.
But, back to you, stock rockers will be fine for your intended use.
LS1Tech Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 1
From: Rockfield Kentucky
I don't know Lou's cams but you should not have any problem.
I had an L92 on the dyno in November.
Stock L92 Long Block
Converted to 3 bolt cam and LS3 front cover (no VVT)
Stock L92 Heads and valves
Lunati dual Springs Ti retainers and keepers
Lunati 232/238 113 .599 cam
LS3 Intake
1 3/4" Hooker F Body Headers (run open on the dyno)
Stock Pushrods
Stock Head Bolts and Rod Bolts
F Body Balancer
On the engine dyno it made a peak of 540 Horsepower.
It was over 500 at 5300 and at 535 at 6500 when we lifted
Average from 4600 to 6500 was 502 horsepower
Peak Torque was about 5200 with 497.
Torque was an average of 469 from 4000 to 6300.
Lou's cams are very good so you should be in the ballpark with ease.
Robin
I had an L92 on the dyno in November.
Stock L92 Long Block
Converted to 3 bolt cam and LS3 front cover (no VVT)
Stock L92 Heads and valves
Lunati dual Springs Ti retainers and keepers
Lunati 232/238 113 .599 cam
LS3 Intake
1 3/4" Hooker F Body Headers (run open on the dyno)
Stock Pushrods
Stock Head Bolts and Rod Bolts
F Body Balancer
On the engine dyno it made a peak of 540 Horsepower.
It was over 500 at 5300 and at 535 at 6500 when we lifted
Average from 4600 to 6500 was 502 horsepower
Peak Torque was about 5200 with 497.
Torque was an average of 469 from 4000 to 6300.
Lou's cams are very good so you should be in the ballpark with ease.
Robin
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Wow!!! Robin, those are great numbers; right where I want to be. I'm a bit worried about the stock pushrods though...I might just swap them out for some relatively cheap insurance....Thank you very much for the info..I cant wait to have this thing running
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no,get rid of the stock pushrods..you'll have a more stable valvetrain with a stronger,stiffer pushrod..the OEM pushrods are just good enough to do the job on a stock motor..on a built motor you'll give up HP on the top end and run the risk of doing a lot of damage if the stock pushrod let's go...
the myth of "better to break a pushrod than a valve or a piston" or whatever is stupid and i can't believe people still spread that crap around..
the myth of "better to break a pushrod than a valve or a piston" or whatever is stupid and i can't believe people still spread that crap around..
no,get rid of the stock pushrods..you'll have a more stable valvetrain with a stronger,stiffer pushrod..the OEM pushrods are just good enough to do the job on a stock motor..on a built motor you'll give up HP on the top end and run the risk of doing a lot of damage if the stock pushrod let's go...
the myth of "better to break a pushrod than a valve or a piston" or whatever is stupid and i can't believe people still spread that crap around..
the myth of "better to break a pushrod than a valve or a piston" or whatever is stupid and i can't believe people still spread that crap around..
Well, everybody has opinions and I guess you have yours too
However the stability of the upper end is a lot more than push rods, it's the whole sha-bang. There are a lot of guys out there with 500 HP motors running stock push rods and rockers. Unless you go crazy with some heavy duty spings, which you don't really need for stock applications you'd be fine.
A bent push rod will give you a mis-fire code, a push rod that goes thru the piston will give ya a sore wallet.
Well, everybody has opinions and I guess you have yours too
However the stability of the upper end is a lot more than push rods, it's the whole sha-bang. There are a lot of guys out there with 500 HP motors running stock push rods and rockers. Unless you go crazy with some heavy duty spings, which you don't really need for stock applications you'd be fine.
A bent push rod will give you a mis-fire code, a push rod that goes thru the piston will give ya a sore wallet.
However the stability of the upper end is a lot more than push rods, it's the whole sha-bang. There are a lot of guys out there with 500 HP motors running stock push rods and rockers. Unless you go crazy with some heavy duty spings, which you don't really need for stock applications you'd be fine.
A bent push rod will give you a mis-fire code, a push rod that goes thru the piston will give ya a sore wallet.
Yeah, but you are also assuming that a bent pushrod will do no damage other than a misfire code
You should know as well a I do, that anytime a part internally bends or breaks, you risk breaking other stuff as well. And to assume that all it will do is throw a misfire code
And you REALLY think a pushrod is gonna go through a PISTON. Can you tell me how that is gonna happen? If you are running anything more than a stock size cam, and upgrading springs, it is in your best interest to upgrade teh pushrods. I see NO reason NOT to. Better valvetrain stability and less deflection =GOOD
Yeah, but you are also assuming that a bent pushrod will do no damage other than a misfire code You should know as well a I do, that anytime a part internally bends or breaks, you risk breaking other stuff as well. And to assume that all it will do is throw a misfire code And you REALLY think a pushrod is gonna go through a PISTON. Can you tell me how that is gonna happen?
If you are running anything more than a stock size cam, and upgrading springs, it is in your best interest to upgrade teh pushrods. I see NO reason NOT to. Better valvetrain stability and less deflection =GOOD
You should know as well a I do, that anytime a part internally bends or breaks, you risk breaking other stuff as well. And to assume that all it will do is throw a misfire code And you REALLY think a pushrod is gonna go through a PISTON. Can you tell me how that is gonna happen? If you are running anything more than a stock size cam, and upgrading springs, it is in your best interest to upgrade teh pushrods. I see NO reason NOT to. Better valvetrain stability and less deflection =GOOD
OK, well, that makes more sense, but you did say the pushrod was gonna go through teh piston. But I still want to see how a stronger pushrod is gonna break a valve spring
I mean, if your heads are setup right (ie no coil bind) and you do not get into valve float, or PTV a stronger pushrod is not gonna break a valve spring. Maybe you are trying to point out that you want the pushrod to be the weak link in case of trouble, like IF you float the valves or something? That way the pushrod will bend? Is that what you are trying to say? I understand you then, if that is what you meant. However, I still have this to say:
If you are upgrading your valve springs to run anything more than a stock cam, I am replacing the notoriously weak pushrod. I am gonna replace ANYTHING that I think is gonna be a problem, or point of failire. I am not gonna leave a "weak link" in the motor, in case "x" fails, it will only do "y" damage. I mean, if you set your heads up right, then you shold have no worries. Also, if you are suggesting that someone gets into PTV clearance issues, you want the pushrod to bend. Again, if you are going through the trouble of changing the cam, and worried about PTV, then you are running a cam big enough that you will need to upgrade springs, and then you should change out the pushrods, AND CHECK YOUR PTV. I just can't agree with your leaving a weaklink in the motor type theory, sorry.
OK, well, that makes more sense, but you did say the pushrod was gonna go through teh piston. But I still want to see how a stronger pushrod is gonna break a valve spring I mean, if your heads are setup right (ie no coil bind) and you do not get into valve float, or PTV a stronger pushrod is not gonna break a valve spring.
Maybe you are trying to point out that you want the pushrod to be the weak link in case of trouble, like IF you float the valves or something? That way the pushrod will bend? Is that what you are trying to say? I understand you then, if that is what you meant. However, I still have this to say:
If you are upgrading your valve springs to run anything more than a stock cam, I am replacing the notoriously weak pushrod. I am gonna replace ANYTHING that I think is gonna be a problem, or point of failire. I am not gonna leave a "weak link" in the motor, in case "x" fails, it will only do "y" damage. I mean, if you set your heads up right, then you shold have no worries. Also, if you are suggesting that someone gets into PTV clearance issues, you want the pushrod to bend. Again, if you are going through the trouble of changing the cam, and worried about PTV, then you are running a cam big enough that you will need to upgrade springs, and then you should change out the pushrods, AND CHECK YOUR PTV. I just can't agree with your leaving a weaklink in the motor type theory, sorry.
I mean, if your heads are setup right (ie no coil bind) and you do not get into valve float, or PTV a stronger pushrod is not gonna break a valve spring. Maybe you are trying to point out that you want the pushrod to be the weak link in case of trouble, like IF you float the valves or something? That way the pushrod will bend? Is that what you are trying to say? I understand you then, if that is what you meant. However, I still have this to say:
If you are upgrading your valve springs to run anything more than a stock cam, I am replacing the notoriously weak pushrod. I am gonna replace ANYTHING that I think is gonna be a problem, or point of failire. I am not gonna leave a "weak link" in the motor, in case "x" fails, it will only do "y" damage. I mean, if you set your heads up right, then you shold have no worries. Also, if you are suggesting that someone gets into PTV clearance issues, you want the pushrod to bend. Again, if you are going through the trouble of changing the cam, and worried about PTV, then you are running a cam big enough that you will need to upgrade springs, and then you should change out the pushrods, AND CHECK YOUR PTV. I just can't agree with your leaving a weaklink in the motor type theory, sorry.
okay I made a typo error on the pushrod, sorry.I agree, if you were building an all out motor, leave nothing to chance.
However, lots of guys who run large lifts, weak springs, etc end up slamming a valve into the piston. I see a lot threads here and over on the CF.
Broken timing chains, cam gear bolts back out, broken springs, keepers and even hollow valve stems giving way.
I know, I'll never have PTV clearance problems because I'm running deep dished -27 pistons, unless I shave the crap out of the heads.
I'm a street guy, looking for a little performance without the danger of imploding my motor. My vette is not my daily driver and never will be because I went car crazy on it and just over did it.
My vette use to be a coupe w/auto trans now it's a hardtop w/six-speed and a whole lot more including a wide body kit , BB Kit, suspension, etc ....
Only stock items left are the doors, windshield, parts of the dash wiring.
okay I made a typo error on the pushrod, sorry.I agree, if you were building an all out motor, leave nothing to chance.
However, lots of guys who run large lifts, weak springs, etc end up slamming a valve into the piston. I see a lot threads here and over on the CF.
Broken timing chains, cam gear bolts back out, broken springs, keepers and even hollow valve stems giving way.
I know, I'll never have PTV clearance problems because I'm running deep dished -27 pistons, unless I shave the crap out of the heads.
I'm a street guy, looking for a little performance without the danger of imploding my motor. My vette is not my daily driver and never will be because I went car crazy on it and just over did it.
]
OK, I gotcha. Makes more sense now to me, even if we can agree to disagree, I see your point totally, cool
That being said, the direction you took with your car, is kind of how I am leaning with my build up. At first, I was gonna go direction in drag only, then mainly drag with some street, and now I want a car that will be a world beater. I can take it out on teh street, beat on it at the drags, and go do a road course and have some fun as well. So, that is off topic and I know, sorry, but sometimes I ramble
OK, I gotcha. Makes more sense now to me, even if we can agree to disagree, I see your point totally, cool
That being said, the direction you took with your car, is kind of how I am leaning with my build up. At first, I was gonna go direction in drag only, then mainly drag with some street, and now I want a car that will be a world beater. I can take it out on teh street, beat on it at the drags, and go do a road course and have some fun as well. So, that is off topic and I know, sorry, but sometimes I ramble
That being said, the direction you took with your car, is kind of how I am leaning with my build up. At first, I was gonna go direction in drag only, then mainly drag with some street, and now I want a car that will be a world beater. I can take it out on teh street, beat on it at the drags, and go do a road course and have some fun as well. So, that is off topic and I know, sorry, but sometimes I ramble
We all ramble sometimes, me too. I would stay away from doing the widebody panels and just tub the rear. 
FormerVendor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Mpls., MN
Sorry, it doesn't work that way....if you break a spring, it's going to wreck something regardless of the pushrod. If you push a borderline pushrod to it's limits though, IT'S flexability can induce valve float which ALWAYS ends badly. Be smart, upgrade the pushrods.