Project: My 6.0 LS2 F-body
04-28-2009, 06:51 AM
#43
Trans is back up and everything seems to be bolted in and the wiring is all cleaned up and out of the way. I also got around to installing the new Torque Arm and let me tell you the exhaust clearance is gonna be real tight. I will probably fire it up again this afternoon and then check for leaks and make sure its all good to go, if so I'll be taking it over to Stenod for the exhaust tomorrow or Thursday.
04-29-2009, 08:00 AM
#44
Well I just got back inside from firing the car up and here how things went. The first time I tried to fire the car it would crank but not start, tried it a few more times and also checked the wiring and made sure everything was connected properly. After rechecking the coils I tried it again and the car started right up YAY! So we decided to drive it off the lift and take it outside of the shop and lket it run for a while.
As the car was running, and running great I might add, I took a video of it outside which I may post later. I repeatedly checked underneath the car for leaks and all my gauges looked great. After about 15-20 minutes I shut the car off and proceeded to walk back insidede. I took one last peek under the car and once again my heart sank. I now have what looks to be a coolant leak and oil leak coming from under the car. Once I let the car cool off we will push it back into the shop and onto the lift to assess the leaks but it looks like the coolant is coming from the water pump and the oil looks again like the rear main seal . I HATE CARS!!!!!
To top it all off the car would not start after I discovered the leaks so I'm guessing a ground wire somewhere is not connected and that is our problem with the car not starting the first time. Now I know why people pay shops to do work on there cars.
As the car was running, and running great I might add, I took a video of it outside which I may post later. I repeatedly checked underneath the car for leaks and all my gauges looked great. After about 15-20 minutes I shut the car off and proceeded to walk back insidede. I took one last peek under the car and once again my heart sank. I now have what looks to be a coolant leak and oil leak coming from under the car. Once I let the car cool off we will push it back into the shop and onto the lift to assess the leaks but it looks like the coolant is coming from the water pump and the oil looks again like the rear main seal . I HATE CARS!!!!!
To top it all off the car would not start after I discovered the leaks so I'm guessing a ground wire somewhere is not connected and that is our problem with the car not starting the first time. Now I know why people pay shops to do work on there cars.
04-29-2009, 09:13 AM
#46
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Good luck on fixing the problems. It will be worth the problems when you are crusing around this summer in that sweet ride knowing you did all of the work. I know what you mean about build problems I am changing my headgasket for the second time this month.
04-29-2009, 09:58 AM
#47
Well I just got back inside from firing the car up and here how things went. The first time I tried to fire the car it would crank but not start, tried it a few more times and also checked the wiring and made sure everything was connected properly. After rechecking the coils I tried it again and the car started right up YAY! So we decided to drive it off the lift and take it outside of the shop and lket it run for a while.
As the car was running, and running great I might add, I took a video of it outside which I may post later. I repeatedly checked underneath the car for leaks and all my gauges looked great. After about 15-20 minutes I shut the car off and proceeded to walk back insidede. I took one last peek under the car and once again my heart sank. I now have what looks to be a coolant leak and oil leak coming from under the car. Once I let the car cool off we will push it back into the shop and onto the lift to assess the leaks but it looks like the coolant is coming from the water pump and the oil looks again like the rear main seal . I HATE CARS!!!!!
To top it all off the car would not start after I discovered the leaks so I'm guessing a ground wire somewhere is not connected and that is our problem with the car not starting the first time. Now I know why people pay shops to do work on there cars.
As the car was running, and running great I might add, I took a video of it outside which I may post later. I repeatedly checked underneath the car for leaks and all my gauges looked great. After about 15-20 minutes I shut the car off and proceeded to walk back insidede. I took one last peek under the car and once again my heart sank. I now have what looks to be a coolant leak and oil leak coming from under the car. Once I let the car cool off we will push it back into the shop and onto the lift to assess the leaks but it looks like the coolant is coming from the water pump and the oil looks again like the rear main seal . I HATE CARS!!!!!
To top it all off the car would not start after I discovered the leaks so I'm guessing a ground wire somewhere is not connected and that is our problem with the car not starting the first time. Now I know why people pay shops to do work on there cars.
Recheck and double check all your grounds!
04-29-2009, 10:07 AM
#48
I won't know for sure until its up in the air again but its definatly coming from that area because the back of the pan has oil on the back of it. I replaced the oil pan gasket when I put the motor in and when I redid the rear main a few days ago I bought another rear cover seal as well so those are both brand new. I'm absolutly baffled its leaking again because that rear main went on like a glove and we checked it before and after tightening it all down a few times.
I'm sure it has to be one of the grounds on the back of the head because we took them off to reattach one that was kind of loose to begin with and I had no fuel pump last time, now its got pump and turns over fine but must not have spark at the coils so I'm sure its one of those grounds I may have missed putting it back on. I didn't disconnect much else to drop the trans.
I'm sure it has to be one of the grounds on the back of the head because we took them off to reattach one that was kind of loose to begin with and I had no fuel pump last time, now its got pump and turns over fine but must not have spark at the coils so I'm sure its one of those grounds I may have missed putting it back on. I didn't disconnect much else to drop the trans.
04-29-2009, 10:47 AM
#49
I just went out and removed the 15mm bolt from the driver side and found all 3 ground wires attached securely, I reattached them and the car fired right up but then it died backing it onto the lift because I didn't 2 foot it. After that we tried to start it and it backfired a couple of times and shot flames out the headers. Any ideas on what may be happening? We didn't seem to have this problem the first time we started the car up a few weeks ago but now we are.
04-29-2009, 11:13 AM
#50
I won't know for sure until its up in the air again but its definatly coming from that area because the back of the pan has oil on the back of it. I replaced the oil pan gasket when I put the motor in and when I redid the rear main a few days ago I bought another rear cover seal as well so those are both brand new. I'm absolutly baffled its leaking again because that rear main went on like a glove and we checked it before and after tightening it all down a few times.
I'm sure it has to be one of the grounds on the back of the head because we took them off to reattach one that was kind of loose to begin with and I had no fuel pump last time, now its got pump and turns over fine but must not have spark at the coils so I'm sure its one of those grounds I may have missed putting it back on. I didn't disconnect much else to drop the trans.
I'm sure it has to be one of the grounds on the back of the head because we took them off to reattach one that was kind of loose to begin with and I had no fuel pump last time, now its got pump and turns over fine but must not have spark at the coils so I'm sure its one of those grounds I may have missed putting it back on. I didn't disconnect much else to drop the trans.
Not sure about your backfiring issue. Sounds like its running very rich, do you have O2 sensors hooked up?
04-29-2009, 11:28 AM
#51
I did not use RTV on the back of the oil pan so that could be a possibility. The coolant looks like it may be coming from the coolant crossover. As for the car not starting I have no idea it has O2 sensor hooked up but its open headers so I'm sure that not helping any.
04-29-2009, 08:15 PM
#52
I did not use RTV on the back of the oil pan so that could be a possibility. The coolant looks like it may be coming from the coolant crossover. As for the car not starting I have no idea it has O2 sensor hooked up but its open headers so I'm sure that not helping any.
Definitely need to get your exhaust hooked up and reset your LTFT and STFT's so that its not dumping fuel. It will probably start at that point. It would probably be easiest if you kept the vehicle in open loop so the O2 sensor's are messing with your fueling right now.
04-30-2009, 05:27 AM
#53
I will call my tuner and have him do that for sure, is there anything else I should have him do before I drive the car around? Unfortunatly it looks like I will be taking the trans off AGAIN and replacing the rear main seal because I don't think the oil pan would leak out that much in a short peroid of time. Also the real telltale sign is that my pass side dust shield is off and there is oil on my starter and headers that was flug there by the flexplate.
04-30-2009, 06:07 AM
#54
Did you follow the correct installation procedure when you built this for installing the front cover, oil pan and rear cover? Did you use the correct tool to install the oil seal? If you don't have the correct tool to align the front and rear covers to the pan you need to loosely install all 3 and work them all at the same time to make sure they are all properly aligned to eachother.
As for putting RTV on the whole gasket, that's not needed, if done correctly.
As for putting RTV on the whole gasket, that's not needed, if done correctly.
04-30-2009, 06:18 AM
#55
I did not use the tool for aligning the front and rear covers. I was told that the rear seal would pretty much align itself and then to make sure its clocked as flat as possible before bolting it down. As for the front cover that harmonic balancer should align that correctly and be bolted down afterwards and the oil pan last, that is how I did it.
Ok so I have been doing a lot of reaserch on this and lots of people have said that the newer style reverse lipped rear main seal that I used leaks a lot and they are a PITA to install. The fix for this is that everyone is removing the seal and installing it backwards and they say it works like a charm. Anyone ever done this?
Ok so I have been doing a lot of reaserch on this and lots of people have said that the newer style reverse lipped rear main seal that I used leaks a lot and they are a PITA to install. The fix for this is that everyone is removing the seal and installing it backwards and they say it works like a charm. Anyone ever done this?
04-30-2009, 10:27 AM
#56
Did you follow the correct installation procedure when you built this for installing the front cover, oil pan and rear cover? Did you use the correct tool to install the oil seal? If you don't have the correct tool to align the front and rear covers to the pan you need to loosely install all 3 and work them all at the same time to make sure they are all properly aligned to eachother.
As for putting RTV on the whole gasket, that's not needed, if done correctly.
As for putting RTV on the whole gasket, that's not needed, if done correctly.
As far as the rear main seal goes, try flipping it around and see if that helps, but LT1Bird is right, you need to use the proper tool to install the rear main seal properly. I was assuming that you were using it. I would also suggest getting a new seal, as the one in there now maybe damaged from not being installed properly and then run. Don't skip the new part!
04-30-2009, 10:54 AM
#57
I was told be several people that the tool wasn't really necessary as the seal centers itself but I will definatly be using one if I do this again. Is it ok for me to run the engine without the trans connected or does it have to be attached to keep the motor from moving all over? The reason I ask is because if I do flip the seal around I would like to check it and make sure its not leaking before I put everything back together again.
04-30-2009, 01:52 PM
#58
Well I think I may have fixed the coolant leak, one of the little o-rings on the coolant crossover was missing and there was a little pool of coolant right next to it and the bolt was coolant soaked. I put some gasket sealer in place of the ring and then put liquid teflon on both of the bolts. After I let that sit for a few hours I went and tried to start the car again. I was met with nothing at first then a small backfire, tried again and it fired right up and held a better idle than the last few times. I wasn't able to let it run for a real long time but the coolant crossover was dry and no oil leaked out this time at all. If its nice out tomorrow I may drive it outside again and let it run for a while and see if the coolant and oil come back, if there is still oil leaking out then the trans is coming off again.
04-30-2009, 02:03 PM
#59
Hoping it stays dry for you Jeff! If not, I'm free to come down and lend a hand!
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