Yes. Give that a try and it will tell you where the oil is coming from....and I suspect it is from the clean side line to the bellows.

 

If you have the Cartek can, leave the RevX can on the dirty side and put the Cartek inline on the clean side. Then, see how your consumption issue goes.

 

Drive it around easy and see if you still use oil. Bet you do. Like I said before there is no way you are sucking 10 quarts of oil through the fresh air tube if you drove it 3000 miles. Come on guys he is burning 1 quart in 285 miles. If it was a quart in 2000 miles then I would say yes but he isn't. He isn't wide open throttle the whole time either. When I rebuilt my motor I used Diamond Pistons and Total Seal rings with the napier 2nd ring to control oil consumption. I did my research and found out that Diamond and Weisco are about the 2 best options for stroker motors. Quit wasting your time following PCV hose routing setups, that isn't your problem. Believe me I was in your boat and did all of that crap and it didn't help....

 

I'm with you and hear what your saying. I want to make sure there isn't something else going on before he does the most difficult task of removing and redoing the engine.

 

I am scared silly it could be the motor. If it is the shortblock, does a person call up the company they bought the shortblock from and ask for a new one? :-)

 

It starts with a nice conversation between you and the vendor. Make sure you keep to the facts. How many miles on the engine?

 

I would have to double check...1200 miles or so?

 

If the red line was causing the problem the FRONT of the throttle body would be sopping with oil also. If it isn't, then the oil is going right through the separator, which is what I found with a different brand catch can.

 

Oil can't get through this can....impossible w/out it filling up first due to the design.....but many others do.

I am suspecting it is a ring sealing issue as well, but he needs to try 405hp_Z06's reccomendation as a last resort. Just to much oil to be all coming from somewhere else IMHO.

 

Yep, agree 100%. I had SERIOUS reversion issues at a track event, oil dripping out of the throttle body between the bellows and throttle body past the hose clamp. If it was the clean air line, the bellows and throttle body would be full of oil and it be dripping down into the air filter through the air bridge.

Rings not seated properly?

Do you have small oil spots all over the rear of the car?

 

The area in front of the throttle body was wet with oil. Not as much oil as was in the intake, but I cleaned that pre-throttle body area last time and it was stained again.

 

No oil spots on the rear of the car.

 

I recently had an Oil problem similar to what the OP was telling about..Plugs wet..etc. I tore it down and found it to be the Rings bad, they would push Oil ontop of the Piston and it would go everywhere.

 

And, this will also push it up through the intake and TB through the reversion pulses from each cylinder. Good example is if anyone has had a head gasket leak coolant into a cylinder....you will see the piston top "steam-cleaned" free of carbon deposits, and if you look at that intake port on the cyl head it will be clean as well from the reversion pulse....all the way into that intake manifold runner for that cyl.

Most common thing we see in tear downs with similar is the rings were not file-fit with the proper end-gap or the wrong rings used for the piston. Other times the motor may have been broken in with syn right away and the rings never seated properly. We have one in now from a volume engine builder and the top ring has one end ground at an angle (should be both ends perfectly square) and it is using oil in that one cylinder only.

 

Almost forgot, at least one of the rocker pedestal bolt holes from each cyl will be open to the intake runner in the cyl head and these MUST be sealed with thread sealant or oil will be pulled around the threads and down into the combustion chamber....even if torqued to spec. This is often overlooked.

I will post pictures of the engine I am tearing down now with a similar issue, and it has only 1500 or so miles on it since the customer bought it.

 

Here are pictures of what I found today on this new motor:


The combustion chamber on #2 cyl shows an awful lot of build-up for only 1500 miles....Also, the lack of carbon in the burn area shows leaking coolant.



Piston top is "steamed clean" compared to #4....but notice each show some coolant leakage into the cyl (where the piston top is clean).



Effects of the reversion pulse that carried the coolant steam up into the intake port & further into the intake manifold. The coolant was only leaking into the cylinder, but the reversion pulse carries some back into the intake (and can with oil as well).



And the intake port for #4 right next to it shows oil build-up and very little steam reversion.

Only #2 was leaking real bad, but all 8 show signs of some seepage.

I also found that the piston to cyl bore clearance is excessive a .0055 when .0035 is the max I like to see so it allowed the rings to flutter and #2 top ring was stuck in the groove and allowed the oil consumption.

Other than these issues, it was a forged build with top quality parts and the rod & main journals & bearings show very little wear so I would attribute this to a "production" builder that puts out qty to be price competitive since the time it takes to check & double check tolerances, and then to order an oversize piston/ring set when the machining was done more than expected does not allow a builder to compete price wise with the other volume builders.

This is NOT real common, but is seen far more than it should be and NO, I will not post the name of the builder as I see some great builds come from them.....and rarely see this.

This is seen more with the low-priced bargin advertised engines & short blocks from the big-name volume builders or the shops that have regular techs attempt to do the engine building.

This post is only to show an example of what can cause some of the issues this thread is dealing with. This engine shows clearly the reversion pulses you here me talk about and leave some thinking...what???

 

I had this same problem on a 454 LSX motor, it had 3k miles when i pulled it. It seemed to be that the piston skirts rubbed the cross hatches completely away in every cylinder from side-loading. I eliminated the PCV system, re-sealed the rocker bolts, and eventually had to pull the motor.

 

Hope thats not the case for this guy.

 

Me too man

 

Me three!