IDRIVEAG8GT

I think this Thread requires more useless info so.... BEER!

The Black Stig

thats the problem.... the wrong one, just waiting to do some itb's not enough flow....

miami993c297

iTrader: (6)

I am reading you were asking for a target between 600 and 670 hp/7000-8000rpm...which is doable and done for me as daily driving purpose, WITH A FAST INTAKE, and still hydraulic.

Post # 34 https://ls1tech.com/forums/14300249-post34.html

Christian

racer7088

Christian, I think he is looking for 600-670 at the wheels SAE. Of course it is done all the time but maybe not the way he wants to. The first 600+ RHWP deal we did was almost 7 years ago and is still running and still made over 600 RWHP 3 months ago at a large dyno day and through a locked converter automatic trans as well and it used LS6 heads so it certainly isn't that hard if you do if you know what it takes. Most people want their own top end combo and then don't understand why they aren't making more than what they are. I've seen this now at least 1500 times.

miami993c297

iTrader: (6)

OK Erik,
I am still learning how to read...he is then looking for 600-670 RWHP...

BTW, I still have hard time with traction between 100/130 mph, on a dry road 70*F...then I wouldn't care about more power as a D.D.
Now for a race car...
Christian

racer7088

Hahaha yes I don't think personally I could even handle your car as I am used to 80 RWHP the last several years!

You have got to be close to 600 RWHP or more easily yourself SAE. I know on the vettes the large wheels people run and the exhaust can trim a few rwhp off but you have a very strong combo that also pulls forever.

Ti valves are always nice if just more people would spring for them but they are still pretty pricy but worth it in my opinion for people trying to get all they can out of their combinations.

The valvetrain alone is a huge deal in making really large power even on these street engines along with heads and manifolds. If the valvetrain isn't working though it doesn't matter how good the manifold or heads are.

miami993c297

iTrader: (6)

Say of the master...very true...Valve-train is not an option, but mandatory when going to rev the engine past 6600 rpm with those "big valves"

Christian

hymey

Yeah, A lot of guys go with 1 piece 110 gm stainless valves, not the way to do it really. Light valve , solid roller and good spring/retainer setup.

Eric what engine did you build that made 600? Hand ported cylinder heads from your shop?

cheers

IDRIVEAG8GT

Why do you want to rev it that high anyways?

91_RS_LS1

Dude, one word: turbo

I don't understand the obsession with staying NA and spinning 7000-8000 RPM. I know it can be done, and you can make the power you want. But with less money you could build a boosted engine that would last longer.

miami993c297

iTrader: (6)

We are living the last decade of the big engines abusing gas and making horsepower for no reasons...and will come the area of air pump engine or hydrogen (or call it the way you want), solar engine, or whatever "clean safe energy"...and we will race on the web (I know a lot are already doing it)!!!

Then I want to enjoy the song of an American V8 almost 100 hp/liter na revving 7500 rpm every time I get my foot on the throttle, is that a reason good enough?

Christian

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

There is definitely a different driving experience with a car that can be buzzed to 7500 rpm and has the gear to match it.

racer7088

Some with ETP cathedral heads and some with Greg Good ported 243 heads and some with light valved TFS 235-245.

hymey

Nice

racer7088

Also with PSI and Cary's Perf Ind small Bore LS7s as well.

91_RS_LS1

That wasn't my point. You can abuse gas and make horse power for no reason @ or over 100hp/Litre with a turbo engine and probably have less money in it and more life from it. I'm all for stupid almost unusable power, but I guess I look at the most efficient way of getting there.

racer7088

I dont know about less money in it if you do it the way most people do at all. We have NA deals that have been racing and running 9s for 7 and 8 years long and never blow up and they are not big money. MUCH less than a turbo setup and all the supporting stuff in general.

For going way faster turbos are it with no argument at all but cheaper or more reliable. Probably not so much unless you keep it way low boost and you still build a much stronger engine like the OEM turbo stuff already comes with.

miami993c297

iTrader: (6)

Hi 91_RS_LS1,

Two subjects of discussion in your sentence below

You were originally stating:
" don't understand the obsession with staying NA and spinning 7000-8000 RPM. I know it can be done, and you can make the power you want", and my explanation in my previous post makes that point very clear, no debate here or any reasons to argue.

Again you were originally stating:
"But with less money you could build a boosted engine that would last longer."
I have been there and already done it...twice...with two monsters prepared in England...
- I never really liked the turbo power and the way it is distributed versus the atmo.
- It was not cheaper at all when I had to go through the accessories related to calories management...and there is a lot on this item with turbo, all over the car.
- Reliability was an issue, always and all the time when I was driving those turbo the way I am driving my atmo's

Now you do whatever you want to please yourself, I will continue to spin my V8 engine NA to 7500 rpm (that’s not high RPM by nowadays technology standards) everyday, and listen to the "music" it creates...as I forgot to mention I was bored with the turbo sound...SSSSSSSS...Bang...Bang...SSSSSSSSS!!!

Christian

BTW, I think your screen name has the same reference roots as mine...

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Let me throw out a grenade just to see who jumps on it...

"Turbo's are for people who don't know how to make power"

Cold06

iTrader: (9)

Watch out they might get you for thread WHORING!!