427 RHS or Stock LS7 block???
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
427 RHS or Stock LS7 block??? It seems that the more I read on here the more I get confused on which way I should be going with my build.
I tend to be more of the overkill type of guy, like if one part will work ok but another part for more money will be better, I always choose the better of the two. It's a disease coming from the drag racing world that I came from.+
Now in saying that, I have posted on here before about building a 427 dry sumped engine. For right now the engine will be going into my desert buggy. But my gut feeling is telling me that if/when I sell that car I plan on keeping this engine for another project.
So in saying that, would it be worth buying a RHS block now to possibly help me later down the road? Or is the LS7 good enough to handle the power of possibly FI in the future?
Is the difference in price worth doing it?
Thanks in advance guys, I need to just quit reading and just do it. So I will have enough money saved up by this summer to pull the trigger.
LS7 block or RHS???
Lunati crank
Callies rods
Weisco Pistons
WCCH Heads
Jesel rockers
Jesel timing set
Jesel Lifters
Add your comments here:_________________
I tend to be more of the overkill type of guy, like if one part will work ok but another part for more money will be better, I always choose the better of the two. It's a disease coming from the drag racing world that I came from.+
Now in saying that, I have posted on here before about building a 427 dry sumped engine. For right now the engine will be going into my desert buggy. But my gut feeling is telling me that if/when I sell that car I plan on keeping this engine for another project.
So in saying that, would it be worth buying a RHS block now to possibly help me later down the road? Or is the LS7 good enough to handle the power of possibly FI in the future?
Is the difference in price worth doing it?
Thanks in advance guys, I need to just quit reading and just do it. So I will have enough money saved up by this summer to pull the trigger.
LS7 block or RHS???
Lunati crank
Callies rods
Weisco Pistons
WCCH Heads
Jesel rockers
Jesel timing set
Jesel Lifters
Add your comments here:_________________
It seems that the more I read on here the more I get confused on which way I should be going with my build.
I tend to be more of the overkill type of guy, like if one part will work ok but another part for more money will be better, I always choose the better of the two. It's a disease coming from the drag racing world that I came from.+
Now in saying that, I have posted on here before about building a 427 dry sumped engine. For right now the engine will be going into my desert buggy. But my gut feeling is telling me that if/when I sell that car I plan on keeping this engine for another project.
So in saying that, would it be worth buying a RHS block now to possibly help me later down the road? Or is the LS7 good enough to handle the power of possibly FI in the future?
Is the difference in price worth doing it?
Thanks in advance guys, I need to just quit reading and just do it. So I will have enough money saved up by this summer to pull the trigger.
LS7 block or RHS???
Lunati crank
Callies rods
Weisco Pistons
WCCH Heads
Jesel rockers
Jesel timing set
Jesel Lifters
Add your comments here:_________________
I tend to be more of the overkill type of guy, like if one part will work ok but another part for more money will be better, I always choose the better of the two. It's a disease coming from the drag racing world that I came from.+
Now in saying that, I have posted on here before about building a 427 dry sumped engine. For right now the engine will be going into my desert buggy. But my gut feeling is telling me that if/when I sell that car I plan on keeping this engine for another project.
So in saying that, would it be worth buying a RHS block now to possibly help me later down the road? Or is the LS7 good enough to handle the power of possibly FI in the future?
Is the difference in price worth doing it?
Thanks in advance guys, I need to just quit reading and just do it. So I will have enough money saved up by this summer to pull the trigger.
LS7 block or RHS???
Lunati crank
Callies rods
Weisco Pistons
WCCH Heads
Jesel rockers
Jesel timing set
Jesel Lifters
Add your comments here:_________________
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
I was thinking about the LSX block, but due to the extra weight, I thought against it.
As for what I"m building? It's a 4 seater pre runner style with an Albins trans. Just the trans alone was 20k, but they say it's so much better than the Mendeola for reliability.
Yes, I know that I won't FI with it in the buggy. I was thinking if I ever sold it and put it in something else I would put twins on it or something like that for the street. I just want something solid that I can work with.
As for what I"m building? It's a 4 seater pre runner style with an Albins trans. Just the trans alone was 20k, but they say it's so much better than the Mendeola for reliability.
Yes, I know that I won't FI with it in the buggy. I was thinking if I ever sold it and put it in something else I would put twins on it or something like that for the street. I just want something solid that I can work with.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 23
From: NYC
The LSX block is the best bang for the buck and 100 pounds is not going to matter much; just go really big. I know you said money is not a problem, but why throw it away. The money you save on the block can pay for super good heads/valve train.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 537
Likes: 1
Aluminum options would also include a Darton dry sleeved LS2 block or Darton MID wet sleeved LS1 block. Either would likely provide stronger liners than the factory LS7 block if you are planning a lot of boost in the future. A Darton sleeved LS7 would be excellent but kind of expensive.
Have your considered a C5R block? Not trying to be a smart *** but if you have $20K for a transmission, I would think you could afford a high dollar block like the C5R.
Have your considered a C5R block? Not trying to be a smart *** but if you have $20K for a transmission, I would think you could afford a high dollar block like the C5R.
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Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
What is the difference between the LSX block (iron) and the RHS? Pricing? Ridgidity? I was leaning towards the aluminum block for weight. I haven't checked the prices on the RHS block, does anyone know the price of this?
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LSX, you can get for around 1800 to 1900, if you shop around, Tall deck, again if you shop around you can get for 2100, that will let you go to 470ish inch and not be at max on anything, but it's heavy
RHS is limited to a max 4.16 bore, and is abotu 5000 bucks... but if you're concerned with the weight, it's worth a look. Definitely the best alum block option that you have at this point, would be the RHS, unless having an ls2 resleeved, and converted to 6 bolt is something you're willing to do. In that case, give shawn from VA speed a call, that's who you want to talk to for that type of work.
regardless I'd talk to him about having the motor built, of all the people on this site, and that are doing alot with the ls motors, that would be my choice.
RHS is limited to a max 4.16 bore, and is abotu 5000 bucks... but if you're concerned with the weight, it's worth a look. Definitely the best alum block option that you have at this point, would be the RHS, unless having an ls2 resleeved, and converted to 6 bolt is something you're willing to do. In that case, give shawn from VA speed a call, that's who you want to talk to for that type of work.
regardless I'd talk to him about having the motor built, of all the people on this site, and that are doing alot with the ls motors, that would be my choice.
i would say a resleeved ls2 0r ls7 would be fine, we have a few cars living reliably at about 900rwhp with no problems, but its all in the tune and engine building process..... other then that other best aluminum option is the rhs block..... if you want more info on the resleeved blocks call steve @ Race Engine Development in Oceanside california
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 191
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From: Indiana
There is definitely another option for you to consider. Our ERL Superdeck I 4 bolt and 6 bolt LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6 and LS7 blocks are a proven product. We actually started all our development work on our Superdeck I system in the sand rail market back quite a few years ago and have been very successful in that in regards to reliability and strength. The nice thing about our system is that it starts life as the stock GM LS series OEM cast block and when you get it back it's ready to handle whatever you're going to put at it. Forrester Race Engines has been beating on our blocks out there in the desert environment in AZ for years and has had nothing but great results and no failures. I have had too many conversations with guys that have already built the LSX blocks and at the end of the day the difference between our Superdeck I and the LSX is the weight. You'll spend the same amount of money to machine and prep the 1900.00 LSX block as you will sending me a core LS series block to machine and prep. Our blocks like I said are already in desert market and have been for years and we also have guys running our blocks in the Drag Radial Class running up to 2000 hp and even won the LSX Shootout this year. I'm not saying your other options aren't any good but just wanted you to know about another product that has been proven to be as strong and very reliable. You can go to our website at www.erlperformance.com and click on the "Domestic" tab and from there you can take a look at our facility, prices, process and even read through our tech briefs about our product.
Actually the warhawk block isn't all that great, talk to some engine builders, the extensive machine work to get one of those things right.... makes the price almost couble what world is getting for one.
I looked into all of the options, and that one at this point to me isn't even viable. Plus they have the screwy 6 bolt pattern, so you're stuck with a head that had a stud in the intake port... which is a big time no no IMO.
I looked into all of the options, and that one at this point to me isn't even viable. Plus they have the screwy 6 bolt pattern, so you're stuck with a head that had a stud in the intake port... which is a big time no no IMO.
^^^^would it require more machine work then the lsx block ? and i was under the impression that the 6th bolt hole was located in between the lifters just like the lsx block.
isn't it ?
isn't it ?
no, the top 6th stud, is lines up with the intake port on the head, so now you have to deal with a cap in the bottom of the port, no room for a good tq wrench, etc.
The blocks have alot of issues that require alot of machining, I'd reccommend talking to someone that's had one built, they can explain better. but the deck heights aren't consistant, alot of it isn't square at all, alot of overall issues. LSX has alot of problems as well, requiring alot of machine work to make them right.
Talk to shawn at va speed, he can probably explain the issues best, he's done alot of these motors and knows all the issues with both blocks.
The blocks have alot of issues that require alot of machining, I'd reccommend talking to someone that's had one built, they can explain better. but the deck heights aren't consistant, alot of it isn't square at all, alot of overall issues. LSX has alot of problems as well, requiring alot of machine work to make them right.
Talk to shawn at va speed, he can probably explain the issues best, he's done alot of these motors and knows all the issues with both blocks.
Re-sleeved LS2 block would be the direction I would go in unless the cost of the RHS block doesn't put you off. We build a lot of 440+ ci engines 90% of them opt for the re-sleeved LS2 for a few reasons. I can discuss them with you if you like in a pm. We work within the customers budget to offer the best solution for their application.
Heavy iron block might not be desirable in a sand rail or dessert buggy so there are options to look at.
Heavy iron block might not be desirable in a sand rail or dessert buggy so there are options to look at.
no, the top 6th stud, is lines up with the intake port on the head, so now you have to deal with a cap in the bottom of the port, no room for a good tq wrench, etc.
The blocks have alot of issues that require alot of machining, I'd reccommend talking to someone that's had one built, they can explain better. but the deck heights aren't consistant, alot of it isn't square at all, alot of overall issues. LSX has alot of problems as well, requiring alot of machine work to make them right.
Talk to shawn at va speed, he can probably explain the issues best, he's done alot of these motors and knows all the issues with both blocks.
The blocks have alot of issues that require alot of machining, I'd reccommend talking to someone that's had one built, they can explain better. but the deck heights aren't consistant, alot of it isn't square at all, alot of overall issues. LSX has alot of problems as well, requiring alot of machine work to make them right.
Talk to shawn at va speed, he can probably explain the issues best, he's done alot of these motors and knows all the issues with both blocks.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=51 Bob