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Ls7 crank in Ls3/L92

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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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Default Ls7 crank in Ls3/L92

What would need to be changed to use an Ls7 crank in an l92 motor? I have done alot of searching and didn't find consistant info. I know the ls7 crank is an inch or so longer but can it be machined down to fit f-bodt acc..? From what I have read, the crank would need to be machined because of the snout, oil pump would need to be changed(not sure much about this one) and the front cover.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 05:59 AM
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What are you trying to build?

It may be easier and cheaper to go with an Eagle Forged or Callies 4" Stroke Crank after it's all said and done.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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Why do you say that? I am not sure what I would use it in right now. I have an l92, and an lq9 block that i could potentionally use it in.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 11:32 AM
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I say that cause from what I can tell you are wanting to build some kind of a Stroker.

Do you even know what you want to build, or what combinations of parts will make what..as in do you know that the LS7 Crank is a 4" Stroke..?

If not, then me or anyone else here cant give you a good technical answer..I need more info on what you want to do bro..
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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The question and reason I created this thread was to find a clear cut answer on what it would take to use the crank in the motors listed. Obviously I have options but I am not going to say I have something planned without knowing what is required to make it work. of course I know it has a 4 inch stroke lol.. I know the jist of the question I asked but want to hear from someone who has actually used one and made it work. If you can get a crank for 400 bucks I don't see how an eagle crank would be cheaper.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Well that is more info there..lol

I got a new Forged Eagle for $750.. I guess it comes down to the required Machining that you need.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:20 AM
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If you trim the front of the crank it is a direct bolt in. You may need a trigger wheel if you are using a 24X ecu, the LS7 crank will be 58X stock. I have used this crank multiple times with good results.

Kurt
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by projectcam
The question and reason I created this thread was to find a clear cut answer on what it would take to use the crank in the motors listed. Obviously I have options but I am not going to say I have something planned without knowing what is required to make it work. of course I know it has a 4 inch stroke lol.. I know the jist of the question I asked but want to hear from someone who has actually used one and made it work. If you can get a crank for 400 bucks I don't see how an eagle crank would be cheaper.
The LS7 is a bad *** crankshaft from what I've read. It's supposedly sourced from Callies. One thing I've read is that the counter weights are set up for the light factory titanium LS7 rod, so it can cost an excessive amount to balance it if you use a typical aftermarket H-beam. If you have both the LS7 crank and the LS7 rods, you should be OK as long as the piston you run is as light or lighter than the factory LS7 piston.

This is just what I've read, but I may try it soon, so I'll let you know.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 427
If you trim the front of the crank it is a direct bolt in. You may need a trigger wheel if you are using a 24X ecu, the LS7 crank will be 58X stock. I have used this crank multiple times with good results.

Kurt

Kurt- Have you used it with the stock rods or aftermarket ones? Do you have an opinion on the factory LS7 rods? Thx for any info.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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I noticed that the factory titanium LS7 rods are shorter than the typical aftermarket stroker rods. I wonder if the Ls2 or Ls3 blocks can run them being that they have shorter cylinder walls. I believe the Darton sleeves are longer than stock but the cost would kill any benefits of the cheaper crank.
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