NAVY99B4C

iTrader: (7)

Got a 6.0 out of an 01 chevy 2500. Iron block has 317 heads and 160k miles.

Guy says it was idling when he left it. came back and it was dead.(locked up) tried to fire it up and it wouldnt spin. Left it went and got a junk yard motor when he got back it fired up but knocked. so swapped them. thats the short story.

I buy it for 100 bucks. I also know NOTHING about them besides there LS platform and have 317 heads.

Now im tearing it down as of right now just taking a break. so ill give more info later tonight. few questions now though;

1) are there any problem areas with this year motor besides the obvious oil pump relif valve im assuming is the culprit.

2) block is rusted BAD outside. not a big worry cause it just looks like paint flaking off but idk for sure.

3)whats a decent size cubic inch i can go as far as boring it with out sleeves? or should i sleeve it? also what type of crank could i run to get there? stroker of some size?

4) Any know of a good thread that explains how to make it all work together or a sticky somewhere cause i havnt found one.

5)WTF is this alt. hole you have to drill all about? One hole?

6)Should i use my 243s or the 317s. to my understanding 317s just have bigger combustion chambers. so lower CR that way.

7) What type of cam are people running in these setups?

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Very much worth that, Easily. Not for sure what happened to this engine, could have just been a bearing spun on either the main or rod or possibly both. He may have hauled some extremely heavy stuff with the engine and it finally just wore out.

Either way, the fix will be simple. Especially if your planning on buying rods and pistons for it. The crank, can be turned and new bearings installed and you will prob be good to go. Go ahead and replace the oil pump for good measure, then just throw it back together and you should be good to go.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Yes everything from your ls1 will bolt right up to the 6.0 block. All accesories, oil pump, oil pan, everything. Your heads will bolt right up, although the L92 heads would prob be a much better option for you.

NAVY99B4C

iTrader: (7)

I have 243s idk what heads would be on this motor. I think im gonna do the swap for 100 bucks i cant pass on it even just using the blocks.

BTW that sticky didnt explain what i needed to know very well. just my thoughts

jay_lt4

iTrader: (4)

i have seen several 6.0's in work trucks that idle for a long time,, the pressure relief sticks in the pump and then no oil pressure, vehicle are left at idle with no one around and the bearings get wiped out, all the ones i saw had the mains siezed/ spun in the block

NAVY99B4C

iTrader: (7)

Thats sounds exactly like what happend to this one. picked it up at lunch today. pulled the pan and the middle main bearing looked like it was locked solid on the crank and spun in the block.

motor has 160k miles and was actually in a work truck that plowed snow and idled alot. It has 317 heads (243s are the same correct 317s have bigger combustion chambers?) and everything looks to be in order except the crank. i got the whole engine with exhaust manifolds to valve covers. (minus the intake and fuel injectors) which i could get, do i need them? All for 100 bucks.

I think it was well worth it.

Now what should i build with this thing? Lol i wanna be anywhere between 425 or 450 or more.

Any suggestions??

NAVY99B4C

iTrader: (7)

Little more update in the OP. ANybody else with suggestion?

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

Just some info, If you bore the block .030" over and put in new rods and pistons and have the crank turned, You will essentially have a 370 CI Engine. If you go with a 4.00" Stroke Crank and bored .030" over you'll have a 408 CI Stroker. Both engines will use a 6.125" Long Connecting Rod. So with that said, If you want a NA beast... Go with the Stroker. For a budget build that will see spray, 370 will be perfect IMO. If you don't plan on ever spraying or going with Forced Induction, You could always go with a Hypereutic Piston instead of the forged ones and save some weight in the rotating assembly and save a little $ as well. But IMO, I'd always go Forged just in case you ever decide to go with N20 or F.I. later on. Just try to build it to handle and be speced out for possible plans later on, so you don't have to rebuild it later on. (such as if you plan on a turbo setup later, Keep the compression around 10.00:1 and when you go with a turbo, you'll be good to go.) In the meantime, you could run NA or with Spray!

PM me if you have any questions or concerns or just some advice.
I'd be more than happy to help you! Also the Hole in the Iron Block 6.0L for the Alternator does need to be drilled and tapped, otherwise it will only have 1 bolt to hold it on on the side. The truck Accessory Bracket only uses 1 of the 2 holes. It takes a few minutes to do that. No Big Deal, Honest!
As for the rust, It's an Iron Block....It's gonna rust. Just use a wire wheel to clean it up and then spray paint it with Hi-Temp Engine Paint and Forget about it.

lmk if you have any more questions...


James

NAVY99B4C

iTrader: (7)

Thank you james!

HMM. 408 has a nice ring to it....lol

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

Not a problem man!