-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

How do you suggest I lube it? The engine is assembled and the oil was drained after it ran last at the salvage yard 6 months ago. I would think some oil would remain in bearings. You don't think that would be enough for a starter-driven compression test?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Looked up some more info on oil priming the LSX and the best method seems to be pumping oil through the port on the driver's side of the block near the timing cover. I do not know what fitting size would be appropriate. Anyone know?

I really don't think a few cranks with the starter is going to cause damage during a compression test. The engine is not bone dry. I'm happy to hear opinions.

nysbadmk8

Does it have an oil pan on it? if so fill it. When I prime new motors, I prime them with just 12 volts to the starter till I get oil in the heads.. Same concept here.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I've read there has been issues with the oil bypass valve located in the oil pan squirting oil up on the bottom of a few pistons and causing the rings to cake up and lose compression and consume oil. Apparently they are working towards a fix for this it has been so common. Again just what ive read on some boards take it for what its worth

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I've read this also but I don't see any evidence in my block that this is the case. Looking from underneath, the #5 & 7 pistons and cylinders (closest to the pressure relief valve) look identical to all the others in the engine. Unless the eledged cake up is just on the rings themselves, this just isn't a problem. My engine has 63k.

Today I got my flexplate so I bolted it up along with the starter and hooked up my battery (after charging it over night). I put a few squirts of tranny fluid in each cylinder and valve stem, then turned it over by hand afew cranks. The first thing I noticed was the resistance I was feeling near #3 TDC went away after a few cranks with lube.

Next using the starter I ran the motor for five "puffs" per cylinder into the compression tester. I did all the cylinders once then repeated for all cylinders. Here are the results for test 1 & 2

1) 165, 180
3) 195, 180
5) 240, 185
7) 210, 220
2) 210, 190
4) 185, 190
6) 220, 230
8) 245, 245

I was spitting out the tranny fluid quite a bit on the first test, so I think the second numbers are more accurate. If anything there were a few cylinders I would consider high for a 9.6:1 motor, so maybe those have carbon buildup or hadn't ejected all the tranny fluid. At any rate I would consider these compression numbers good for a cold engine cranking on the stand. Thoughts?

Next I retested the #3 problem cylinder with the leak-down tester and I was happy to find after the compression check, it no longer leaks past the valve. I measured 20% with the HF leakdown tester and I could just barely hear it going past the rings. I think the number the HF tester gives it very unreliable, but I couldn't deny there was no longer any air going past the intake valve.

All in all I would say I am no longer worried about this engine and I feel I can get on with building it into what I want for my Nova. After its in the car and running for a bit I will retest with the engine warm and see what sort of numbers it produces.

Thanks all for the help!

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

I cant say i have much constructive input, but im definitely interested in your build clint.

Can ly6s be run with a manual?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can put a manual behind the LY6, but I'm doing a TH400. I haven't posted any real info on my build yet, but when I get further along I certainly will start a thread. The car is a '70 Nova going from a 350/TH400 to LY6/TH400. I plan on swapping the cam while retaining VVT.